ralphee i measured my lines. first one, block to Tee is 2 feet, and the second one is 4 feet, and there's about 6 inches of slack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esedulerp5tenin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, dont get 6' of line because you wont be able to cut the stainless lines and attach the 2 ends to them.

http://stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-feed.shtml
this is my first line coming from the block to the Tee fitting that i mentioned. i needed the Tee for my stock oil pressure sensor, plus my oil pressure sender for my gauge.

http://stealthmodeperformance....shtml
this is my second line coming from the Tee to the turbo, except i didn't get the fitting that is shown in that picture</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esedulerp5tenin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ralphee i measured my lines. first one, block to Tee is 2 feet, and the second one is 4 feet, and there's about 6 inches of slack. </TD></TR></TABLE>

oh ok, so you're saying the tee splits to the turbo one way and to your oil psi guage the other way. i'll be using a sandwich plate at my oil filter so i don't think i'll have to split my line somewhere up there.

how many feet do you think it is from the filter to snake around to where the turbo is? about 4 to 5 feet maybe? how do you route that total 6 feet of line through your engine bay?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ralpheezy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh ok, so you're saying the tee splits to the turbo one way and to your oil psi guage the other way. i'll be using a sandwich plate at my oil filter so i don't think i'll have to split my line somewhere up there.

how many feet do you think it is from the filter to snake around to where the turbo is? about 4 to 5 feet maybe? how do you route that total 6 feet of line through your engine bay?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea off the Tee is the turbo feed line, oil pressure gauge, and oil pressure sensor. but since your gonna use a sangwheech plate, you can leave the stock oil pressure sensor alone, and your feed line will go directly from the sangwheech to the turbo, and if your gonna use an oil press gauge, that'll run off the plate also.
i would say its about 5 feet from the filter to the turbo, DEPENDING ON YOUR MANIFOLD!!
you should just take some string and roughly mock up how you wanna run your lines so you can get an idea of how much to get.


this is mine




directly over VC, you can just barely see the Tee to the left of the brake fluid reservior, then straight down.

 

thanks for the help man. i have the same type of manifold as you. who made yours? i got mine from spoolin performance. i saw a local guy's civic with a turbo h22 and he had the line routed over the tranny side by the distributor. i'll do the string idea to see how much i'll absolutely need. i was looking at the spoolin oil kit and it only has 4 feet for the feed and one on ebay that comes with a sandwich plate only has 3 feet for feed.

btw, are you running any pcv/catchcan setup?

 

hermsfab log mani

no catch can yet, but that'll prolly be the next thing on my list.

 

Just a few pics of the work in progress. 3" Turbo back exhaust is built and on the car.

 

hey guys david here im doing a turbo conversion on my h22a got manifold t3 turbo and bov and going to run the turbo conversion on my vtec controller cam fc' what else would i have to change? fuel pump? or what will in crease my proformance i only want to run low boost as i cant afort inturnals at this stage thanks david

 

how about your injectors for one... Their is a hole lot more to a build than those few things that you have mentioned. Try looking through this thread for builds and info. Also try the search feature. This question has been asked many times. I congratulate you on starting this project and for not creating a new thread.

 

ok thanks

 

wers the cheapist place to buy parts fot my h22a turbo conversion like injectors and fuel pump ect, thanks david

 

look through the market place here, post in the wanted section. ect.

 

need some ideas: I tried turboing on stock internals and have went through 2 stock jdm engines, both ringlands on cylinder #3 cracked each time while on the dyno. the first time it was after about 8 pulls on only 7psi, the second time it happened part way through the first pull on the dyno at only 3psi.

I'm using rc 750cc injectors with a fuel pump and hondata s200b
turbo is a t3/t4 .57 trim with 3' piping exhaust.
I'm thinking maybe the injector at #3 could be bad and leaned out that cylinder but they are new injectors and come flow tested when they arrived, so i'm not sure how often that could even happen.

Any ideas?

 

Did you get a compression and leak down test before boost both of those motors?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.60trim &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you get a compression and leak down test before boost both of those motors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the motor place said they do it on every motor, so we didn't test the first one but it ran fine before it hit they dyno.

thinking maybe something was wrong with the first motor we did a compression and leak down test on the second motor and it was fine, so i was hoping it would hold up but had the same result on the third cylinder.

p.s. compression test 210 across the board. (h22a)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oranginal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">need some ideas: I tried turboing on stock internals and have went through 2 stock jdm engines, both ringlands on cylinder #3 cracked each time while on the dyno. the first time it was after about 8 pulls on only 7psi, the second time it happened part way through the first pull on the dyno at only 3psi.
I'm using rc 750cc injectors with a fuel pump and hondata s200b
turbo is a t3/t4 .57 trim with 3' piping exhaust.
I'm thinking maybe the injector at #3 could be bad and leaned out that cylinder but they are new injectors and come flow tested when they arrived, so i'm not sure how often that could even happen.</TD></TR></TABLE>

who is tuning your car?

 

there was no mention of pistons or sleeves or anything? i had all cylinders cracked pistons on a H, when i tried wat your doing... so i would say go for pistons...those pistons weren't made for boost.. and as all of us boost H guys know... you can't really get pistons without having to re-sleeve....unless you go with mahle but good luck man...

Eventhough it still shouldn't have been detonating that bad on that low of boost...im with this other guy also... on who is tuning it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oranginal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">need some ideas: I tried turboing on stock internals and have went through 2 stock jdm engines, both ringlands on cylinder #3 cracked each time while on the dyno. the first time it was after about 8 pulls on only 7psi, the second time it happened part way through the first pull on the dyno at only 3psi.

I'm using rc 750cc injectors with a fuel pump and hondata s200b
turbo is a t3/t4 .57 trim with 3' piping exhaust.
I'm thinking maybe the injector at #3 could be bad and leaned out that cylinder but they are new injectors and come flow tested when they arrived, so i'm not sure how often that could even happen.

Any ideas?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

seriouslly who ever is tuning your motor doesn't know what they are doing. get a better tunner,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DfwBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

who is tuning your car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The car is being tuned by Jeff Evans. I am very confident in his abilities and think there must be some other factor here i'm just missing. He ran everything on the conservative side because we all know how weak the ringlands on these motors are. For the second motor i noticd oil coming from the head (blowby) when i got up there, so i think the motor was shot before it ever hit the dyno.

I am still driving the car everyday just taking it easy until i can save up to re-sleeve. I'm going to test the injectors before i migrate them over to the next motor.

Still looking for any other ideas/suggestions so i can try to target this problem.

Thanks

 

I've never heard of the ringlands being that weak. Build the engine. If your just going to keep buying jdm's myswell spend the money well.

 

dude you just need to get a motor you know nothing is wrong with and do it correctly step for step...sleeves, pistons, rods, head bolts, studs, head gasket...the works... if your going to boost an H series dont half *** it... im not trying to down you man, cuz your on the right track kinda...your just spending alot of unnecessary money on blown up engines & components... i wish you the best dude...



Modified by SHPrelude00 at 7:36 PM 7/16/2007

 

Side shot of my baby

Intercooler

I'm great at aiming camera's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oranginal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car is being tuned by Jeff Evans. I am very confident in his abilities and think there must be some other factor here i'm just missing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i believe Jeff Evans is pretty good yes are u telling them its a stock block? some thing is missing here.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oranginal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He ran everything on the conservative side because we all know how weak the ringlands on these motors are.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ahhhh the "conservative tune" in this case what did it mean????ended up choking nway so u lost me on that.....what was done conservatively here?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96vtecI4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never heard of the ringlands being that weak. Build the engine. If your just going to keep buying jdm's myswell spend the money well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i bought the first motor to turbo after i had some problems with the valves on my original engine. When that one blew i got a replacement engine because we didn't compression test the first motor, so i thought it was just a bad motor from the beginning. But the replacement engine had the same problem.
So my next step is to build the extra block i have in the backyard after i save up the cash for it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DfwBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i believe Jeff Evans is pretty good yes are u telling them its a stock block? some thing is missing here.

ahhhh the "conservative tune" in this case what did it mean????ended up choking nway so u lost me on that.....what was done conservatively here?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes he knows it's a stock block, we couldn't think of anything that might cause this except maybe a bad flowing injector leaning out the cylinder. And since the injectors were in the same positions on both motors this could be the problem. But if it's not the the injector i'm not sure what else it could be.

and for the 'conservative tune' i'm referring to the timing that was run, not sure the exact number but Jeff explained everything to me, that is why there must be something i'm missing here.

 

From what I can see, you didn't vent the block at all. Where is all that crankcase pressure going? Hello blowby...

 

you think thats wat is causing the blowby or is it the cracked ringlands and lost compression rings? haha H22 stock pistons just can't handle it...i dont care who you are...