J swap no spark
#1
J swap no spark
need 94 integra to 99 odyssey wiring
not getting spark but has fuel
immobilizer chip desoldered
i have pulled ecu and key ignition with key and harness from donor van
im a bit confused on driver tower shock wiring
i need help
ecu is in and all connections to A plug seems to be correct
not getting spark but has fuel
immobilizer chip desoldered
i have pulled ecu and key ignition with key and harness from donor van
im a bit confused on driver tower shock wiring
i need help
ecu is in and all connections to A plug seems to be correct
#4
Re: J swap no spark
I hope I did, I followed my schematics on both integra Haynes and the engine I swapped in a odyssey 99
currently I only get fuel in.
And sometimes when when I turn key off to pull out it backfires really loud??
currently I only get fuel in.
And sometimes when when I turn key off to pull out it backfires really loud??
#7
Re: J swap no spark
Hey, so a little update, I bought a 1060 aem v1 box, I read online someone ran a j32 in a sand rail so I decided to go for it. I just lost the page and I don’t know how they did it. And yes I repinned it all and it is all correct on my laptop, just no sparkAnyways, everything is good, but still no spark? Am I missing something, I’m checking the jumpers in the aem box and it’s factory.It’s all set to 1-2 on the jpt1-jpt2(crank and cam)But since my engine(j35a1) has no distributor and needs to run off crank and cam, should it be on the 2-3?? I did notice two thingsStart stat sync is offCoil#1 is off.I’m assuming that’s why no spark but what’ should I check...
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#9
Re: J swap no spark
I got this version box because I saw it at a cheaper price and thought I can repinnit to work but recently I only see 5 coil outputs so it gots me worried lol... and I saw someone didit on a sand rail online somewhere, may have to resell and save up for the v2...
I actually emailed him once awhile back I forgot why, I think I was about to order a harness from him, but then recently I figured it out. I may have to give him a call, I haven’t had a chance to try my new settings and calibration yet on my box I been sick and in ER, seems like the flu is hitting everyone hard...On a side note, is does the j35 Fire two cylinders at once or one during the firing order? 1-4-2-5-3-6? Like does 6-1 fire together then 4-2 etc... sorry if that sounds dumb...
#12
Re: J swap no spark
oops didn’t mean to quote, I haven’t had time to mess with it yet, I will keep updating just Incase someone decides to try something confusing as I am doing, lol.
If all else fails , v2 aem it is :/
If all else fails , v2 aem it is :/
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: J swap no spark
I got this version box because I saw it at a cheaper price and thought I can repinnit to work but recently I only see 5 coil outputs so it gots me worried lol... and I saw someone didit on a sand rail online somewhere, may have to resell and save up for the v2...
I actually emailed him once awhile back I forgot why, I think I was about to order a harness from him, but then recently I figured it out. I may have to give him a call, I haven’t had a chance to try my new settings and calibration yet on my box I been sick and in ER, seems like the flu is hitting everyone hard...On a side note, is does the j35 Fire two cylinders at once or one during the firing order? 1-4-2-5-3-6? Like does 6-1 fire together then 4-2 etc... sorry if that sounds dumb...
I'm pretty sure your J35 only fires one cylinder at a time.
#14
Re: J swap no spark
another update, I called aem they told me I needed a type of trigger kit to get spark with what I was trying to do, or convert my j35a to a distributor. I didn’t want to buy another kit and add more confusion.
my solution: resold my v1 1060 box, bit the bullet and bought the aem v2. Fires right up, now I’m just finishing vinyl wrapping my car and off on the road I go!!, thanks for the replies I hope whoever tries what I tried doesn’t. Lol
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Re: J swap no spark
yes I think so,
another update, I called aem they told me I needed a type of trigger kit to get spark with what I was trying to do, or convert my j35a to a distributor. I didn’t want to buy another kit and add more confusion.
my solution: resold my v1 1060 box, bit the bullet and bought the aem v2. Fires right up, now I’m just finishing vinyl wrapping my car and off on the road I go!!, thanks for the replies I hope whoever tries what I tried doesn’t. Lol
#16
Re: J swap no spark
Probably last update:
incase someone is doing a j35a1 swap with the 6051 aem box and can’t get it to idle correctly.
i had to add a little bit of fuel, and had my timing at 10degrees btdc.
I struggled wondering for 2 hours why it wouldn’t stay on lmao.
I skipped timing sync step, and checking fuel tables.
Derp. Thank you everyone for replying, hope this helps another j35a1 swapper out.
incase someone is doing a j35a1 swap with the 6051 aem box and can’t get it to idle correctly.
i had to add a little bit of fuel, and had my timing at 10degrees btdc.
I struggled wondering for 2 hours why it wouldn’t stay on lmao.
I skipped timing sync step, and checking fuel tables.
Derp. Thank you everyone for replying, hope this helps another j35a1 swapper out.
#17
Tuning question
I didn’t want to make another thread on this so I decided to post here.
following up on my success getting my car started, everything is great, been a year and a few months, I’ve decided to start tuning more for power or at least a tad bit more efficient on high end, I plan on turboing it but I’d like to know a few things that I’m concerned about. I want to tune what I have now until I gather my turbo together.
1. I have my BTDC at 10 fixed to lock in my timing with the program, but in my ignition tables they’re set high around 19-25 low load then upper on WOT it’s down to 8.7, I’m assuming the higher the number the more advanced timing it is... so at WOT it’s set 8,7 across? Shouldn’t it be more advanced to 12-16? Or son like that? What is ideal for this?
2. Is the BTDC 10 degrees for a j35a/j32a?
3. My AFRs are 12.8-13.7 at WOT at the moment which is Where I want it for NA, but when VTEC engages it goes to 16? I’ve tried adding more fuel but it seems excessive to jump lean like that or is that normal? I’ve only done 1-2 pulls ever.
I mainly cruise but now I want to go fast lol
my mods are
j35a1 with j35a4 intake manifold
Intake
full 2.75” exhaust dual out
And a manga flow catalytic converter lol.
following up on my success getting my car started, everything is great, been a year and a few months, I’ve decided to start tuning more for power or at least a tad bit more efficient on high end, I plan on turboing it but I’d like to know a few things that I’m concerned about. I want to tune what I have now until I gather my turbo together.
1. I have my BTDC at 10 fixed to lock in my timing with the program, but in my ignition tables they’re set high around 19-25 low load then upper on WOT it’s down to 8.7, I’m assuming the higher the number the more advanced timing it is... so at WOT it’s set 8,7 across? Shouldn’t it be more advanced to 12-16? Or son like that? What is ideal for this?
2. Is the BTDC 10 degrees for a j35a/j32a?
3. My AFRs are 12.8-13.7 at WOT at the moment which is Where I want it for NA, but when VTEC engages it goes to 16? I’ve tried adding more fuel but it seems excessive to jump lean like that or is that normal? I’ve only done 1-2 pulls ever.
I mainly cruise but now I want to go fast lol
my mods are
j35a1 with j35a4 intake manifold
Intake
full 2.75” exhaust dual out
And a manga flow catalytic converter lol.
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