i just finished my engine and started it and the car instantly runs to 4k rpm and stays there.????????????????? is this due to timing or something else? PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

vacume leak. check your hoses

 

do you this for sure ? it could be something else like throttle cable problems. i dont see a vacuum leak causing the engine to stay reved at 4k rpm, i will check though, thanks

 

look in your throttle body to see if the throttle is open, if you dona have any vacuum leaks, then check that

 

still i am having a problem, the timing was a little off so i re did it and made it as perfect as you can get other than the distributor. now it revs too 3500k rather than 4k????????? and stays there. does this happen everytime you put a new motor together? its not brand new but its a B20 block w/ type r head. I'm stumped so are my buddies.Also i had a apexi vafc hooked to the type r motor before, but i took that out and rehooked the ecu wires as you are supposed too. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

 

it should not happen.you most lkey have to have a vacuum leak to make it rev up that high.

 

i see no lak, is there a special way to check this???? could it have to do with the ecu wiring?? i had a vafc before but took it out with this new setup. should i install it and try to fix with that?????

 

i just found an oil leak near the oil filter. could this be the problem???? maybe air is seeking out causing it to rev at idle. i hope this is the problem. i'm pretty sure its coming out on the conversion that screws into the block where the oil filter screws on. everything else seems to be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urtz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i see no lak, is there a special way to check this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok. what i mean is that in order fort ur engine to rev up that high ur engine needs more air. ur engine cannot rev very much more if it doasnt more air. u can check it by spraying carb and choke cleaner around the maniold and vacuum hoses. hence the fact it has vacuum, it will suck it the liquid thus making the engine idle better since ur giving it more fuel and sealing the hole shortly asuming its not so big.

 

if there is a vacuum leak the engine wouldnt rev and stay at a certain rpm, it would fluctuate and bog. i start my my motor and within about 3-4 sec. it goes straight to 3500k and stays there! then on top of that, it runs for maybe 15-25 sec. more and i shut it off. i feel the headers,, and they are soo hot already, i burned myself on them! while everything else is still like the air temp.??????? this might mean the timing is really off, but i have everything lined up to exact specifications. i have never been so stumped before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urtz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just finished my engine and started it and the car instantly runs to 4k rpm and stays there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well acording to your post it does stay at this rpm. and if your tps is working improperly, then it will fluctuate, so u imght wanna check that. just my 2 cents

 

did you replace any intake manifold or throttle body gaskets? it could leak from there too

 

yes the IM gasket. i actually had a leak of antifreeze on the end of the manifold .

 

check the intake manifold bolts and make sure they have the correct torque and that you put all of them on. I know it sounds simple but its happened

 

make sure you don't have any bubles in your coolant passages or sensors. When I put my car back together after having the tranny serviced the engine would rev up near 4k until it warmed up and the thermistat opened.

 

where do i look for this mainly near the thermostst, and which sensors? how would it effect the sensors?

 

I'm not really sure how to look for air in the system without pulling coolant lines. All I did was let it run until it came up to normal operating temperature with the radiator cap off. As it warmed up and the thermistat started to open, coolant moved through the ISC pushing the air out and the engine came down to normal idle speed. You need to watch the temp gauge while you're doing this. The temp sensor is on the hot side of the thermistat, so if it doesn't open properly you'll know it in a hurry.