I need a pic of the intake manifold from a h22a4 for the vac lines. I think mine are messed up.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=650329

Second post down.

WHat do you need for the dizzy?

 

My bad. I keep forgetting about that thread. My car keeps throwing a code 3. I replaced the map sensor allready and it stopped. And then it just came back on. My car will idle at 1300 rpm's and once I give it gas, it bogg's out. I was told I can't run OBD2 injectors on a OBD1 p13. Could my wiring be wrong?

 

And for the dizzy, can it be advanced?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sixgundone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> My car will idle at 1300 rpm's and once I give it gas, it bogg's out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check your vacuum lines going to the map.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sixgundone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I was told I can't run OBD2 injectors on a OBD1 p13. Could my wiring be wrong? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can, but the ECU is not scaled for the smaller injectors. You may run lean in Vtec.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sixgundone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And for the dizzy, can it be advanced?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, OBD2 dizzys have a bottom leg that does not let you move it.

 

My map sensor screws into the top of my throttle body. Do I need to take it off and hook a vac line to it or something?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sixgundone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My map sensor screws into the top of my throttle body. Do I need to take it off and hook a vac line to it or something?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, forgot H22a4 TB have TB mounted MAP. Make sure the hole is clean of ****.

 

Cleaned. When I first ran codes, I got a 12, 36, 41. Well I have them figured out. But then everytime I run the car for 5 minutes and run for codes again, they keep comin back. And then I get them to go away. And then they come back. Could wiring be a issue here? Also. I was told I would run lean too. But actually, I am running rich.

 

It maybe wiring, how long does it take for the CEL to come on after you start the car?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sixgundone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Also. I was told I would run lean too. But actually, I am running rich.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It matters your fuel pressure. More fuel pressure, more fuel the injector will spray at the same dwell.

 

My cel comes on right away. But I think that it comes on because of the egr cel(12).

Is there any other reason fo rmy car bogging out once I give it gas.

I have been tryin to figure this out for a week. Everyday.

 

Few things, timing and if your map sensor is bad. Make sure you have the right connector on the map.

 

The only other plug that is the same and is near the map would be the Egr plug. Right? I will double up on some of the wiring.

 

Oh, and also I did check for codes again. Now I only have cel 12 (egr). But it still bogg's out when I give it gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sixgundone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, and also I did check for codes again. Now I only have cel 12 (egr). But it still bogg's out when I give it gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Look into timing and EGR. If the EGR is opening at the wrong time, it will cause the car to bog.

 

Can't I just Disable the egr valve? I have cleaned it out and tried everything with it. I can't get it to work properly. When I give it gas, it sounds like popping coming out the exhaust. And then it konk's out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sixgundone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it sounds like popping coming out the exhaust. And then it konk's out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like timing. Check your cam timing and igntion.

 

I checked. Timing is good. I know that h22a4 dizzy's can't be adjusted but when I was looking at it, I seen were there were marks on it from being moved. You think it has a OBD1 dizzy on it? How can I tell if it is a OBD1 dizzy?

 

Well, It's running. I took off all the spark plug wires and did the timing again. I cleaned everything out and checked everything twice. So it was either timing or ignition. Anyways. I took it on the highway. I didn't get on it though. I am going to take it easy. When I first got the swap in, I could here a ticking noise. I thought it had something to do with the timing. So I futz with it for a while and the noise is still there. I can hear it coming from the bottom end. If anything, I hope it isn't too bad. I am going to take another CR test tomorrow. The test I did the other day wasn't good. Car was cold and It was the first time I did a compression test. Here were the results.

Cylinder #4 222
Cylinder #3 170
Cylinder #2 195
Cylinder #1 160

I hope that part of this was from the cold, being a noob at doing a CR, and something else. But with that ticking noise, I won't be surprised if it doesn't change much.

Well, thanks and I will post my new CR tomorrow.