a stock b18 map will work to run. My gsr ecu runs my swap fine for emissions.

 

No one?

 

A lot of people have asked that quest. I personally have not seen one and have looked far and wide for it. All im going to say is this: When building my engine, the head, mains and other bolts except the rod bolts were torqued to the H22 specs. When we originally we going to use OEM Honda bearings, we were going by the bearing colors. Because the rod journals were B16-sized, we simply were going to go by the color bearing for the clearances. For the mains, the 55mm 97.5-01 main bearings were going to be used, based on the colors. Seriously, it can't be vastly different where each component's torque spec is +/-5 ft/lbs or more than the above mentioned. And the bearing clearances are self explanatory when you go by the colors for clearances. Otherwise you can get ACL bearings which i did and my motor spins clean and free.

There is a service manual available, but im going to say its overseas, and its likely youre closer to getting it from your location than we are. And there is also a high possibility its in a language other than English. Try sourcing it through dealers who source F20B-specific service parts like gaskets, sensors and so forth.

 

Thanks a lot again deleon, you have been very helpful!

I have ACL bearings and I am going to check them with plastigauge, if they are the same size as b16 bearings they probably also should have about the same clearance as the B16. Thinking about it i guess most engines uses somewhat the same bearing clearance specs. And since the block and head "cast" is suppose to be the same as H22 i guess the main and head bolts are the same to. And then I will use the torq specs from that other f-series engine on the rod bolts, like you suggested.

Thanks again!

 

Essentially, its an H22, except several differences you may/may not notice.
When compared to an H22. the F20B has.....
Totally different pistons, rods and rod bolts
Iron-sleeved cylinder liners
No oil squirter jets, no bungs to mount one but does have the oil feed for the system blocked by a 17mm-head bolt
Smaller intake valves (same exhaust)
Different plenum (as in bolt pattern for IACV and depending on transmission, larger/smaller TB opening)
Engine mount bracket
lack of VTEC pressure switch

Thats just off the top of my dome. The only reason why i listed what can already be found in this thread is just to show that the main and head bolts arent different in terms of patterns and torque and maybe a noob might not feel like reading all the pages and this is just going to be a check point.

 

anyone want to PM me about what needs to be done to get an f20b into prelude sh? My SH motor blew and i'm trying to figure out what i can previously use and what needs to be purchased to get a f20 running.

 

Ok so I ready through all 16 pages of the tread and I'm really only asking for clarification. Is it possible to use the h22 pump to gain the crank sensor? This is of course to avoid the dist wiring issues. Well let me talk about what i'm doing maybe that will help my answer. I bought a beautiful 97 accord lx for $200 (popped the timing belt) I want to keep it automatic and I'd like to stay obdII. So I do some research and I can get an f20b for $650 shipped to me. I am assuming that the chassis plugs don't work with the harness connectors. So I'll have to get a different harness (and add vtec). And I think some one in the first few pages said the reason you can't use the h22 dist is because of the tdc sensor issue. Well if you can use the h22 pump to put it at the crank doesn't that mean that the h22 dist will be fine no wiring head aches? But I also saw where someone was going to use an f23 harness... wouldn't it be the same connectors as the f20b? Cause I thought that the f23 harness would plug into the accord chassis? Like I said it's my first accord and I might be mixing stuff up or getting bad info from other forums. please Lead me to the light

 

wow no need to ask any questions about f20b swap all info is right here. thanks guys

 

ok so i am swapping my f20b in march into my 94 accord. im using a 93 prelude h22 dizzy and a tuned p28.
Then using skunk2 intake mani with h22a4 iac. My questions are should i run into any problems with this setup ignition wise. and what type of injectors so i use peak n hold, saturated or what and also what about high impedence or low impedence? and would i need the clips also? Bisi says they make stainless valves for f20 but i cant find any that are 29mm as some idiot grinded my valves wrong at school. And finally golden eagle can make me a headgasket right if i can send them the oem one that is already used or send them specs

 

Think about it... If you do come across one... Odds are its gonna be in japanese... The motor was never sold in America... So therefore I doubt Honda wasted the bread to ship out 1000s of copies to dealers across america..

 

if you have any major info/extra info, please keep me posted as i will you. i am hopefully going to get mine in and running by middle of next month, ii will let you know whats good.
ps what trans r u going to be runnng?

 

When I did my swap I had an obd1 h22 setup that I picked parts off of. I had an auto F20b so I swapped the entire p13 intake mani, throttle body, distributor, harness and injectors. This was a us distributor so it was external coil if you switch to a jdm obd1 distributor it would be internal coil. My injection setup was the stock h22 peak and holds with the resistor block. Worked great till I bounced my car off of Bambi.

 

Finally after a year of downtime the F20b is arriving in a few days. I am swapping it into a bb6 SH that has a cracked block. I know I know, why would i swap a lower torque motor into a heavy car? Because I want the F20b's iron block and high rev power band. I could careless about the torque since that could be made up for. Now i've read over and over what needs to be changed from my existing H22a4 to the f20b, the question is since I'll be running my stock ECU for now, should i change over my h22a4 injectors to accomodate for the 290cc output? anything else i may be missing would help as well.

 

I have a question . I have a F20b in my DX . Having problems with it . It chokes once I reach 3k rpm . Burning very rich .

 

Sounds like you could have a map sensor problem. Tps and map plugs could be backwards, throttle body gasket could be on wrong. Map could be bad.

All of these Easy to eliminate.

 

Does anyone kno how to tell an auto f20b from a manual othe than taking a micrometer to the cams? Like stamping on the head or IM?

Just had my f20b tuned today

F20b
Skunk2 IM
f20b throttle body
Qsd h2b kit
S4c b16a3 trans
Oem b series flywheel

171hp 136tq@8000rpm tuned on Neptune

Is this any good? Steve at H-motors said he sent me the manual f20b I'm not believing that after having it tuned...

 

Numbers seem right to me

mine made 181whp and 142trq and i got alot more done to mine then just skunk2 IM, there is a difference in size between the auto and manual TB i think its on the first 3 pages of this thread.

 

Yea, I just read every page on this thread. I read the same question About 10 times sorry for the noob question guys.

The numbers just didnt seem right to me I mean 11:1 cr and type s cams you would think it would be higher.

I'm going to measure my TB tomorrow. Plus it has a junk *** eBay header on it. I can't find a decently priced h2b header anywhere on here.
I want 200 out of it. A header TB pro2's springs and retainers should do it.

What's the specs on yours judgedredd?

 

200whp is going to be hard to shot for with just bolt on's for an f20b unless your on a generous dyno.

here is my setup.

Setup F20b stock bottom end T2T4trans

Brian Crower stage 2 cams
URG cam gear
Hytech replica header
Hondata IMG
Performance products 68mm throttle body
8lb Fidanza flywheel
Act sprung 6 puck with x-heavy duty pressure plate.
H22/F20b intake manifold with butterfly's removed.
Tuned with Neptune by Locash racing

This dyno was done with a 2.25" crush bend exhaust I have sense added 2.5" Mandrel bend and the car feels alot better im sure if i were to get a re-tune the numbers would go up some.

There are 2 lines the darker lines is on a 55shot and the lighter line is the motor.

 

Wow I'm very happy with my numbers after seeing that. no offense, I just thought with cams a nice header an TB it would be better than 180ish. I bet that crx get down!

I been reading allot and when the bank account looks better I'm gonna get pro2's and a nice h2b header.

I have a 70mm bbk TB on the way to match my skunk2 Mani.

And maybe a 75 shot if it's not at 200 with all that.

P.S. You kno where I could get a decently priced h2b header?

 

Im sure with the Pro2's you will make more then me they are alot more aggressive then the BC cams i have.

here a decent price nice H2b header
http://www.kiddracing.com/site/onlin...ag-race-header

Keep this thread posted on your progress

 

hi guys, i had my f20b mapped last week and raced it at the weekend, at the end of the straight (quarter mile oval) i'm just touching the limiter set at 8100 rpm, is it safe to rev these engines upto this? it was still making power at the limiter by the way.

engine is mostly stock but does have kaizenspeed balance shaft kit and supertech valve strings and retainers.

many thanks Adam

 

mine has a stock valve train except a BC intake cam and i have been revving mine to 9k in first gear and about 8500 in second gear for 2 years now.

 

really? i'm using a long 2nd gear, so i should be ok then

 

wait a minute, so you only have a BC intake cam and it made 180 hp, why just the intake cam/