what do u guys think bout swapping and f22 outta a 90 accord to the f20? and which is easier to build?

 

This is not the purpose of this thread.

 

Does the h22a4 oil pan and oil pick up fit on an f20b?


Also I have an f20b motor, only needs a piston and a rod, $100

 

So, Ive been reading and reading and reading the FAQ's and searching the hybrid section like crazy and still have a couple questions:

Ill be doing an F2B with the F20B into an EG hatch using the QSD kit. The car is already B18c swapped, complete all the way down to the OBD2 harness, which should make things a little easier in the long run....

I plan on getting another Kiddracing H2b hytech knockoff (I know its a knockoff, but Im on a budget and it makes damn good power) or the RMF style knockoff from him for the swap, so Ill be covered in that aspect.

Now, in all of the H2b threads Ive seen, we have people machining their crankpulleys and removing balance shafts to get it in the car. I plan to keep the balance shafts, and shouldnt have to machine the pulley at all being as its already a single-ribbed pulley. Now, if I figured correctly, this simply means I have to do more banging on the frame rail, correct?

Now, onto engine management. I have a chipped p28 I will be using to run the vehicle, the only issue Im worried about is that the chip is setup with an H22 program. Will this safely run the motor decently until I can get money aside for dyno time, or will I basically be up a creek until I can afford a tune?

Also, there are quite a few rumors out there as to how rev-happy these F20b's are......how rev-happy? B series rev-happy? 8k+ rpm rev-happy?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Ive done multiple multiple multiple swaps in the past, but this will be my first H2B and this is the only place I could think of to help! Thanks in advance!

-JAke

 

It revs happily throughout the rev range, and yes it does rev north of 8000, but as with any motor you dont want to constantly do that as everything has limits.

The H22 chip program will be fine, although both motors use different sized injectors (OBD1 H22-345cc OBD2 H22-290cc F20B 97-01-310cc) So it will be fine to drive safely but you wont get the full potential of the motor unless its tuned (as you'll probably already know)

 

Awesome man, thanks. I was kind of hoping you'd reply, even thought about shooting you a PM instead of posting in the thread.

Any idea as to the rest of my questions? Ive read Bense's thread more than a couple times but its a bit different F2D compared to H2B due to space limitations, which is my main concern, really....

As far as my engine management question goes, its just going to be temporary. I plan on switching to e-85 (readily available and easy to find out here in CO) and a little gigglegas as soon as I can. I just wanted to make sure Id be able to run the car with the baselines I already have at my fingertips. Trying to be as cost-effective as possible out of the gate....

Thanks again for the reply, you're the man!

-Jake

 

This is the part that falls into a gray area because Ive read that people did not have "massage" the frame rail and others said they had to pound away, and then there are those who've said that they trimmed parts of the timing cover for clearance (this with the pulleys removed) Its my understanding that the Evo kit pulls the motor closer to the trans side than the QSD by about 1/2" giving you more clearance and not having to bang, but then again i havent read anyone using the QSD and running the BS. The Evo kit with mounts costs more but gives you more fraimrail clearance and allows you to fully close the hood whereas the QSD allows you to use factory style mounts, your own flywheel and clutch and leaves the B trans in its intended position.

I would go into the H2B discussion thread in the HYbrid section, as I've only dealt with QSD. Look up boostedej1 (who has the QSD kit) and pick his brain (IIRC he didnt have to bang the frame. there will be some guys in that thread with Evo kits who could also help from that point of view.

 

Thx for the reply Jr, you're the man! Now, to get the parts in, Ill be good to go. Im planning on doing a build thread once I get started also....we'll see.

 

anyone got a new f20b head gasket for sale besides AutoDynamics i dont want to pay $50 for shipping

 

Alright so this is the only forum with any knowledge on the F20B it seems on the entire Internet. I was going to do this swap in a 96-97 accord that is OBD2A. The F20B is obviously OBD2B. The engine I will be purchasing has everything, T2T4 tranny, axles, ECU, and wiring harness plus all sensors. My question is can't I just use an OBD2B to OBD2A harness adapter without having to purchase a new ECU and also having to fool with the IACV stuff as well and still use the stock TB. I just want to leave the engine stock without having to change alot of the wiring besides possibly the vtec if it's not already a VTEC accord. The only problem I can think of is the ECU wont make up for the load the USDM power steering has on the engine so the RPMs might be a problem. Am I headed in the right direction or am I completely off?

 

What you mean is the 2A to 2B adapter (because of the car is OBD2A you need an OBD2A (the chassis) to OBD2B (ECU) adapter. This is if you plan to use the F20B ecu (which you said was OBD2B) in that case you are right you wouldnt have to fiddle with the upper plenum to accomodate a working IACV. Remember the F20B does not use a pressure switch for VTEC so you would need one (unless you have one) As for it not compensating for the load of the pulley-driven PS versus the SIR/SIR-T electrical PS that i honestly couldnt tell you about. If you do give it a shot, put the wheel all the way in one direction and see what it does. I dont know how you'd compensate for it seeing as how the manual trans one (with the 62mm TB) does not have a idle adjusting screw at the TB. There are several things that will have to be changed from wiring (has its crank sensor in the dizzy versus the 96-97 Accord which has its crank sensor on the oil pump, among other things) to the driver's side mount bracket on the F20B

 

So it pretty much seems like I will be okay using the stock TB and IACV if I retain the F20B ECU. I figure I can just use an MSD coil kit for an H22 to correct the distributor issue with the crank sensor? Or I guess you mean the wire running to the oil pump crank sensor needs to be re routed to the dizzy, and I assume the MSD will have that. My main concern at this point is how in the world do you hook up VTEC to an engine that doesn't have a place for a solenoid to be installed. I need to know what to purchase in that sense, I just don't understand how it works in this engine or to get it to work with the ECU.

 

U just simply wire your own wires to the ecu. And your ground wire to chassy ground.

 

auto motor have dual valve springs?

 

very helpful info, my other accord is awaiting her new engine, i was thinking of putting the f22b1 vtec engine that it had before, but then i came across a f20b that i can get for almost the same price. im still thinking about it, but u mentioned h22a parts fit the motor...so if i want to add headers i buy the h22 type?, how about the ecu?, i would need the ecu, i dont think the f22b1 vtec ecu would work, so what type do i need i cant seem to find it?, do i need the h22a ecu? your response will be helpful, thnks again!

 

if anyone has pasrts to the f20b i need them....or if u want to sell the shortblock i need it.. or whole motor

 

my new f20b in my 99 prelude isnt engaging vtec and its running super rich. im using the f20b fuel rail and injectors but the h22a4 ecu. i thought the ecu could compensate for the injector difference. am i wrong? i have no check engine light. plugs,gas are new. please someone help me get my vtec back

 

i have some f20b parts. a whole motor minus one piston and one rod. also an h22a4 block and an h22a block/ head. lots of parts. what do you need?

 

Hi There all..... I need an thicker head gasket for the F20B so i could boost more, have any of you know a place where i could get one ??
i want to run like 10 to 12 psi so i really needs to lower compression for the amount of boost.
also i need the torque specs of head bolts and of course the bolt sequence.

i really hope anyone can help me out.....
greetingss

 

you will have to find a Headgasket company and see if they can custom make you one. as for the head studs if your replacing them you should not bother with stock and use ARP the sequence is the same as h22 , you torque the ARP's down in 3 steps to 90ft lbs i did mine 30, 60, 90ft lbs i also reused the stock head gasket because im a cheap bastard.

 

So i can not just buy one already made ??, so nobody has ever boost these engine's and used a thicker head gasket to lower compression ??...
i just contacted Cometic, and guess what copper is gonna be between 95 to 125 depends on how thick and MLS $3400 just to design the gasket.....
now i was wondering if it's possible like the VW guys do, put 2 or 3 OEM gasket to lower compression i don't know if its gonna work for the F20B engine....

 

dude go with methanol injection and problem solved(snow performance stage 2 kit)

 

Hi guys.

Does anyone have a workshop manual for the F20B? Accord Sir-T?

If not, does anyone know if the F20B uses the same bearing clearances, and torque specs as any other honda engine (like the h22 og f20a?)?

Sorry if the answer is right in front of me, I have tried searching for a long time.

 

You can definitely feel the difference down low from the H22.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwbuKy4lOSE


Oh well, should be fun once I get to stomp on it.

 

hey guys,im a bit stuck,need a base map for my hondata S300 unit for the F20b and the closet i can find is an H22A7 map from the Euro R,any1 got a file they can send me for either a standard F20b or 1 theyve already tweaked???? goes on the dyno soon so in a bit of a hurry,thanks guys