EK22Tim

hey guys, is there any way to get rid or bypass the EGR code on my JDM P13? I HATE THAT LIGHT.. it's the only code thrown. i think it's 13? Anyway, any way to get rid of that? also, my h runs really rough when i first start it.. idles very high too.. when it warms up, it sounds GREAT.. Any thoughts there?
Oh, i used the stock civic rad fan with a few trims! it works great.. anyway, let me know if you have any ideas. thanks guys!

rob d

Why don't you just hook the EGR up? Like you, I diddn't like looking at the CEL. So I hooked mine up. Plus, you don't know when the CEL comes on for something else.

EK22Tim

Well, I plan to, but I need a bunch of EGR stuff to hook 'er up. I ran all the wires to the ECM, so that's not the issue. I'm missing a few parts.. I have the canister and the solenoid that's on the H22 itself, but there's another solenoid or valve or something that I'm missing.. I guess it's located someplace on the firewall? Any clue what that is and where I can find it?

H22ek4

try doing a search on egr on the hybrid forum, I remember some one said you can bypass by grounding one of the plugs on the ecu which fouls the ecu so that the cel won't come on, I have it bookmark on my other computer but right now I'm using a 120mhz p1 computer with 33.6k so i can't really help you there.

EK22Tim

coool! I'll check it out. that would be great!! Anyone else have info on this? Also, I'd like to install cruise in my EK.. I have the 4 pin brake sensor, the cruise brain, and the cruise diafragm. the cable goes through the firewall, but I can't see where to connect it?? Is there an extra bracket that goes on the gas pedal that i missed? crap.. also, any ideas on the running rough thing?

bb2rhd

block off the egr using the gasket for a template but cut the bolt holes out and leave the center holes to block it then reconnect it as a prelude is wired in. check vaccum leaks,then go to to the thermostatic idle switch and unbolt the 3 ten mm bolts and unscrew the two screws then see if the white section has play then tighten the section with the two opposing slits clockwise using two small flathead screw driver's this should adjust any unusually high idle rpms. As far as cruise your on your own.

cpforyou

I recommend you do the following:
The fuel maps for the P72 ECU and the P13 ECU are very similar. The P72 ECU will actually give you more top end power. However, when VTEC kicks in on a P72 ECU, you feel a slight bog in power since the VTEC kicks in too early, but then the engine screams. So my solution to you is to get rid of your P13, and get yourself a P72 ECU. You can also run a chipped P28 or P30 ECU and you won't get any light.

bb2vtec

Why would you suggest to run a P72 ecu? What about injector impedence? one is low and the other high. The map for a P72 actually felt a good bit slower when I tested that idea a few years ago. It made revs but it was like not pulling hard. A map for 400cc smaller engine cant be good. Thats a pretty high percentage for a small displacement motor. If you used a P72 injector then you would loose a good bit of injector size. Thats alot of c.c.'s your stepping down. Then you are running lean. If you take a look at Honda themselves and see how they operated there pgmfi take 91 Acura integra LS they had a injector resistor box then in 92 the car had no injector resistor. They went non obd to obd1 but I think more importantly they changed injector impedence but they kept running a resistor box and impedence on the F and H series. If this was a money saving's issue then they would have eliminated it from then but strangely they didnt eliminate it till the OBD2 prelude in 97. Why not keep the P13 and chip it.

HotWheelz

???? what are you talking about... as for injectors, you add a resisterbox... that's it.. now for that Injector post your completely way off... the ecu triggers a voltage that is called a pulsewidth, which is a term that means the lenght of time the injectors is open.. now you have fuel pressure and the opening of the injector... we all know that any B-Series are 240cc, so if you take an ecu and open the injector of it with the same pulse width (duration) and fuel pressure.. then if you have a 345cc injector (prelude) and a 240CC "B series" then obviously it doesn't matter what ecu you use P13 or P72 because the ECu will have the pulsewidth timing so the fuel will automatically be delivered in the right quantity... meaning it doesn't matterif yuou use a p72 or p13 if you keep the same injectors and put the resistor box your injector value should be the same...

MPower332TI

If you dont have to pass emissions where you live i would not worry about the EGR at all. Take everything out including the charcoal canister and sensor and all. I took mine all out and my friend made me an aluminum plate to cover the hole where the EGR was. Ill try to get a pic. The EGR is a emissions related item. Wont effect to much performance or MPG. For example i have mine all the way off and i also have a walbro 255LPH fuel pump. Im getting anywhere from 24 to 28 MPG. Depends on how i drive it. Also i have way to much Fuel pressure because of the pump. (40 plus psi) Actually gonna put on a regulator and rail tonight so that should help out. Oh and on the issue of the light. What you could do is unplug the light on the cluster and then wire up a little bulb down by the ecu to the pin out of the check engine light.(not sure on the pin, check your manual) Then you could always check codes through that bulb. You have to jump the little connector thats by the ecu and then turn the key to the on poistion. The count the flashes that the bulb which you wired up omits. Good luck with it all.


[Modified by jDmDxTuRd, 9:54 AM 12/23/2002]

EK22Tim

ok thgat is one way to do it. I was kinda hoping to get the code out altogether, and leave the CEL in its place. anyone else have any ideas? oh and by the way, i never found that thread to eliminate it. Did ya find it yet bud? thanks a lot for your help guys, and happy Holidays!