Zero Clearance
hit the mechanic in the ***** .. that should show him zero clearance.
No seriously though, double check that the timing is set right at crank and camshafts. Also check to see if distributor shaft is in correctly as it has two ways to go in and could cause early or late firing sequences.
No seriously though, double check that the timing is set right at crank and camshafts. Also check to see if distributor shaft is in correctly as it has two ways to go in and could cause early or late firing sequences.
What he means by "zero clearance" is what most people refer to as an "interference" type engine, where the pistons will hit and bend the valves if the timing belt breaks.
If the engine cranks but will not start, troubleshoot procedure is as follows:
1. When turning the key to position II (ON), make sure the Check Engine light comes on and then goes out after two seconds. If the light stays on, check the main relay, ECM fuse, and ECM.
2. If the check engine light goes out after two seconds, you should next remove the oil cap and look inside the valve cover while someone cranks the engine for you. If the rocker arms/cam followers are moving, the timing belt is intact. If the rocker arms are not moving, the timing belt is broken.
3. If the timing belt is intact, check for spark at the plugs. Pull a spark plug and reinsert it into the wire. While you hold the ground electrode against a bit of bare metal in the engine bay (valve cover nuts work fine), have someone crank the engine while you look for a fat blue spark. Don't get zapped, it will hurt. If you have weak yellow spark or no spark, check for a problem with the ignitor (more likely with external coil distributor) or ignition coil (more likely with internal coil distributor). Make sure you actually pull a plug and look at the electrodes to make sure they aren't worn down to nothing, expecially when using copper plugs. Also check the contact points on the distributor cap and rotor and replace if worn or corroded. If your spark plug wires are cheap and/or falling apart, replace them.
4. If you have spark, check for fuel. If the plugs were wet and smelled of gasoline when you pulled them in the previous step, you have fuel.
5. Run a compression test in all cylinders. You will need a compression meter.
6. Check cam timing.
If the engine cranks but will not start, troubleshoot procedure is as follows:
1. When turning the key to position II (ON), make sure the Check Engine light comes on and then goes out after two seconds. If the light stays on, check the main relay, ECM fuse, and ECM.
2. If the check engine light goes out after two seconds, you should next remove the oil cap and look inside the valve cover while someone cranks the engine for you. If the rocker arms/cam followers are moving, the timing belt is intact. If the rocker arms are not moving, the timing belt is broken.
3. If the timing belt is intact, check for spark at the plugs. Pull a spark plug and reinsert it into the wire. While you hold the ground electrode against a bit of bare metal in the engine bay (valve cover nuts work fine), have someone crank the engine while you look for a fat blue spark. Don't get zapped, it will hurt. If you have weak yellow spark or no spark, check for a problem with the ignitor (more likely with external coil distributor) or ignition coil (more likely with internal coil distributor). Make sure you actually pull a plug and look at the electrodes to make sure they aren't worn down to nothing, expecially when using copper plugs. Also check the contact points on the distributor cap and rotor and replace if worn or corroded. If your spark plug wires are cheap and/or falling apart, replace them.
4. If you have spark, check for fuel. If the plugs were wet and smelled of gasoline when you pulled them in the previous step, you have fuel.
5. Run a compression test in all cylinders. You will need a compression meter.
6. Check cam timing.
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DroppedTegra
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Oct 21, 2011 08:28 AM




