TiggsCRX

Ok, check sig for specs on engine. Car was running fine until yesterday on the way to work, it bogged down, and died. It's now in my driveway.

The car turns over (when it wants to, the starter is shot so I have to screw with it to get it starting). Just doesn't fire up. Timing is fine, I thought that was the problem so it was the first thing I checked.
Checked to see if I had spark next, I do.
Have atleast a half tank of gas - can smell gas when it tries to fireup.
Spark plugs look fine, only 3 weeks old around 1000 miles.
No codes.
Like I said, was running before. Ran fine actually. Valves seem a little loose right now, going to re-adjust those as soon as I can get to the auto parts store and get a feeler gauge.
I've exhausted my ideas of my very limited automotive engine knowledge.

It seems like it's not combusting at all, or very much. Every couple turns of the crank I hear a small bit of combustion, but not enough for it to start. It doesn't even sound like it's trying to start.

Any ideas? Any other info you might need? LMK
Thanks

TiggsCRX

any1? could my valves being loose be an issue? I set em at .008 int, and .010 exh, got info from Delta today to set em at .006 int and .008 exh... could that cause enough of a lack in compression?

jc836

Could be that the timing is a bit off. You did say you milled the ehad 0.040 and that is a good bit. Is the tensioner OK. Another thing-check to see if there is any red dust in the distributor-particularly on the inside of the cap and on the modules. If so-get a new one because the bearing is fried. Recheck you codes-while you are at it. I doubt that the .002 difference in valve lash alone would be the cause of the problem. Also look for vacuum leaks.

91civicEX

take off your distributor cap and make sure the rotor is still there. they can fall of or melt.

SlowSpoolin1.6SOHC

i'd say timing as well, one of my friends had the same problem. How long has it been sence you've drivin it?

TiggsCRX

if the dizzy was failing, I wouldn't get spark though right?

I know the cap is a little dirty inside, I was planning on replacing that stuff soon, maybe this'l be more motivation, but I need the cash just incase it's something else

TiggsCRX

Quick post for a fellow member. He emailed me this (user Koto SM2):


Hey, I'm a trial used on h-t, and it wouldn't let me reply to your thread. Try testing the compression. I have had this exact problem before and what happened was the cylinders weren't holding compression anymore, likely because they had been washed out trying to start it repeatedly. Take out the plugs, pour about a tablespoon of motor oil into the cylinders through the spark plug tubes. Before re-installing the plugs, turn the motor over a few times, just in case there is too much oil in the cylinders. Reinstall the plugs and prepare for the motor to smoke like hell for about 5 minutes, and you may want to hold the revs at about 2k until it starts smoking and gets up to temp. Last time I let it idle while I was closing the hood, and it died thirty seconds later.

TiggsCRX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rick James &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd say timing as well, one of my friends had the same problem. How long has it been sence you've drivin it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was driving it when it bogged down, then stalled out.

4drEF

Any check engine light with codes?

I have had a problem a few times where the screw that hold the rotor to the distibutor shaft backs out and then the rotor spins freely. I had been driving the car and then it backfired a couple times and then bogged out and died. At the immediate moment I thought I snapped the timing belt.

When it got to testing I was getting spark my timing was WAY off. I started checking the distributor and found the problem with the rotor. Using mechanical Loctite (the blue one) on the screw threads solved the problem and still allows for easy rotor changes.

technine

Do you hear the injectors prime when you turn the key to the "on" position? If it doesn't then maybe your main relay is bad or maybe our pump went out. See if it primes, if it doesn't you have a fuel delivery prob.

Nocturnal_Lude

Check your ignitor in your dist. I was driving along one day and over-revved and it bogged and died. Plus a few days prior to this I had a problem gettin it to start properly. Come to find out, after I had replaced my external coil that it was my ignitor all along. Sometimes screws come loose and knock around and break ****, sometimes they just go out. If you were worried about you dizzy before...change it anyways...it can only help you in the long run. HTH

iluvkarekare

happenbed to me to actually to day, but there's oil on my plugs. BRand new head gasket(oem) and tourqued it

if i find out ill let u know im out of ideas

Kasper.

I would atleast pull the cap (it takes 1 minute of your time and a phillips screw driver) and just look to see if everything is stilll there......

Same thing happened to me the other night and I could of avoided a 50 dollar tow if I had my screw driver and torx screw driver with me too......the screw for the rotor came off and the rotor was just free willing on the distributor shaft.

I replaced the rotor, screw, and cap with a distributor I had in the garage last night and its like a new car again........oh and btw my car did the exact same thing yours did....cruising and just bogged in 5th downshifted to 4th bogged again and then died.

if you want to check your cam timing pull the top timing belt cover off and check the belt for proper tension....any fraying or cracks? and also manually rotate the engine and look for teeth to be broken off the belt indicating jumped timing.

TiggsCRX

Yup, pulled the cap.

Rotor just spun around freely with no problem. Slid right off. It was too dark, didn't see if the screw was still there. I'm going to replace the cap and rotor probably tomorrow since it is a little dusty in there. Hopefully that's the issue.

Timing is on, a little retarded cuz of the mill to set it straight. I'll take car of the adv/ret early april on the dyno anyway. I don't think that's affecting it.

I think the dizzy is the issue. I'll let u know asap about it!
Thanks for the help, daylight will only tell now!

TiggsCRX

just fyi: bought new cap and rotor. the broken screw was still half in the dizzy so I just said screw it, broke down and bought a new dizzy

Got it all installed and the car runs fine (except my timing is loose now, odd, probably cuz I messed with it lol )