Still have code 10, eg z6
03-29-2010, 02:24 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Still have code 10, eg z6
92 b8/z6. Dont know why the IAT code 10 is there. Wired up correctly, brand new oem IAT...all vac lines/electrical connectors are hooked up properly.
When i start up my car, the code comes up every now and then...when its OFF, my idle is around 500-1000rpm, fluctuates until operating temp, then settles anywhere in that range.
When its ON, idle is around 1000-1500rpm and settles anywhere in that range.
There is no difference in temp, or drivability, only idle.
The only thing is that im NOT running a p28 ecu, i still have the stock b8 ecu. Could that really be the problem? Everything else on the car works fine.
When i start up my car, the code comes up every now and then...when its OFF, my idle is around 500-1000rpm, fluctuates until operating temp, then settles anywhere in that range.
When its ON, idle is around 1000-1500rpm and settles anywhere in that range.
There is no difference in temp, or drivability, only idle.
The only thing is that im NOT running a p28 ecu, i still have the stock b8 ecu. Could that really be the problem? Everything else on the car works fine.
03-29-2010, 03:05 PM
#2
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Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
bump, this is getting very annoying.
I know the IAT is rated for a certain temperature, but what would cause the CEL? the operating temperature going OVER the rated temp of the IAT?
Someone has to know about this, there are so many self proclaimed "gurus" out there that have to know more than engine specs.
I know the IAT is rated for a certain temperature, but what would cause the CEL? the operating temperature going OVER the rated temp of the IAT?
Someone has to know about this, there are so many self proclaimed "gurus" out there that have to know more than engine specs.
03-30-2010, 07:03 AM
#4
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Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
This is interesting regarding the IAT sensor
This could explain my constant smell of sulphur, also random smoke...and most certainly gas milage.
DRIVEABILITY SYMPTOMS
If the intake air temperature sensor is not reading accurately, the PCM may think the air is warmer or colder than it actually is, causing it to miscalculate the air/fuel mixture. The result may be a lean or rich fuel mixture that causes driveability symptoms such as poor idle quality when cold, stumble on cold acceleration, and surging when the engine is warm.
If the engine computer uses the air temperature sensor input to turn on a cold start injector, and the sensor is not reading accurately, it may prevent the cold start injector from working causing a hard cold start condition.
A faulty air temperature sensor that is reading warmer than normal will typically cause in a lean fuel condition. This increases the risk of detonation and lean misfire (which hurts fuel economy and increases emissions).
A faulty air temperature sensor that is reading colder than normal will typically cause a rich fuel condition. This wastes fuel and also increases emissions.
Sometimes what appears to be a fuel mixture balance problem due to a faulty air temperature sensor is actually due to something else, like an engine vacuum leak or even a restricted catalytic converter! A severe exhaust restriction will reduce intake vacuum and airflow causing the sensor to read hotter than normal (because it is picking up heat from the engine).
DIAGNOSING THE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The sensor's resistance can also be checked with an ohmmeter.
Remove the sensor, then connect the two leads on the ohmmeter to the two pins in or on the sensor’s wiring connector plug to measure the sensor’s resistance. Measure the sensor’s resistance when it is cold. Then blow
hot air at the tip of the sensor with a blow drier (never use a propane torch!) and measure the resistance again. Look for a change in the resistance reading as the sensor warms up.
No change in the sensor’s resistance reading as it heats up would tell you the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. The sensor reading should gradually decrease if the sensor is a negative thermistor, or gradully increase if it is a positive thermistor. If the reading suddenly goes open (infinite resistance) or shorts out (little or no resistance), you have a bad sensor.
If the intake air temperature sensor is not reading accurately, the PCM may think the air is warmer or colder than it actually is, causing it to miscalculate the air/fuel mixture. The result may be a lean or rich fuel mixture that causes driveability symptoms such as poor idle quality when cold, stumble on cold acceleration, and surging when the engine is warm.
If the engine computer uses the air temperature sensor input to turn on a cold start injector, and the sensor is not reading accurately, it may prevent the cold start injector from working causing a hard cold start condition.
A faulty air temperature sensor that is reading warmer than normal will typically cause in a lean fuel condition. This increases the risk of detonation and lean misfire (which hurts fuel economy and increases emissions).
A faulty air temperature sensor that is reading colder than normal will typically cause a rich fuel condition. This wastes fuel and also increases emissions.
Sometimes what appears to be a fuel mixture balance problem due to a faulty air temperature sensor is actually due to something else, like an engine vacuum leak or even a restricted catalytic converter! A severe exhaust restriction will reduce intake vacuum and airflow causing the sensor to read hotter than normal (because it is picking up heat from the engine).
DIAGNOSING THE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The sensor's resistance can also be checked with an ohmmeter.
Remove the sensor, then connect the two leads on the ohmmeter to the two pins in or on the sensor’s wiring connector plug to measure the sensor’s resistance. Measure the sensor’s resistance when it is cold. Then blow
hot air at the tip of the sensor with a blow drier (never use a propane torch!) and measure the resistance again. Look for a change in the resistance reading as the sensor warms up.
No change in the sensor’s resistance reading as it heats up would tell you the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. The sensor reading should gradually decrease if the sensor is a negative thermistor, or gradully increase if it is a positive thermistor. If the reading suddenly goes open (infinite resistance) or shorts out (little or no resistance), you have a bad sensor.
03-30-2010, 07:29 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
But the IAT is new from honda, well like 3 weeks old...the CEL went away for around a week, then came back. As of now, the CEL come on at random it seems.
When CEL is OFF
-idle at 500-800rpm
When CEL is ON
-idle at 1000-1300rpm
It would either come on as soon as i start my car, OR after a few minutes of driving. This happens when its cold outside in the morning, and also when its warmer when i leave work.
03-30-2010, 07:35 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
Still? Really? That sucks...
Sooo it comes and goes? Brand new oem sensor didn't fix it? Could be a corroded wire or loose pin...
Have you tried a different ecu?
Sooo it comes and goes? Brand new oem sensor didn't fix it? Could be a corroded wire or loose pin...
Have you tried a different ecu?
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03-30-2010, 07:42 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
Either way, i dont know whats causing this. There is a part in that paragraph up there that states the CEL probably wouldnt come on just because of a temperature failure...basically because since the temp changes all the time, there is supposed to be a range in which the IAT can be functional.
It says that the only reason the CEL would come on is due to wiring being messed up. That doesnt make any since in my case because the wires fine!
03-30-2010, 07:45 AM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
I'm not saying it's the wrong ecu, I'm trying to say maybe the ecu itself has an issue.
honestly...you might just be better off hardwiring the sensor to the ecu and bypassing all of those joints. corroded pins are a freaking nightmare.
The map sensor in my car won't register if I run it via the engine harness...everything can be plugged in and the ecu thinks the map sensor is mia. I checked all of the pins and wires...eventually I gave up and ran wires off of the plug straight to the ecu. Problem solved.
honestly...you might just be better off hardwiring the sensor to the ecu and bypassing all of those joints. corroded pins are a freaking nightmare.
The map sensor in my car won't register if I run it via the engine harness...everything can be plugged in and the ecu thinks the map sensor is mia. I checked all of the pins and wires...eventually I gave up and ran wires off of the plug straight to the ecu. Problem solved.
03-30-2010, 07:50 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
I'm not saying it's the wrong ecu, I'm trying to say maybe the ecu itself has an issue.
honestly...you might just be better off hardwiring the sensor to the ecu and bypassing all of those joints. corroded pins are a freaking nightmare.
The map sensor in my car won't register if I run it via the engine harness...everything can be plugged in and the ecu thinks the map sensor is mia. I checked all of the pins and wires...eventually I gave up and ran wires off of the plug straight to the ecu. Problem solved.
honestly...you might just be better off hardwiring the sensor to the ecu and bypassing all of those joints. corroded pins are a freaking nightmare.
The map sensor in my car won't register if I run it via the engine harness...everything can be plugged in and the ecu thinks the map sensor is mia. I checked all of the pins and wires...eventually I gave up and ran wires off of the plug straight to the ecu. Problem solved.
03-30-2010, 09:05 AM
#11
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Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
could it possibly be every now and then because you take a turn a lil harder and the wire harness brushes up against something, or some odd thing like that?
lol idk im just throwing it out there, mine does it all the time ive tried everything, and im still looking for the cure, good luck
lol idk im just throwing it out there, mine does it all the time ive tried everything, and im still looking for the cure, good luck
03-30-2010, 09:07 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
could it possibly be every now and then because you take a turn a lil harder and the wire harness brushes up against something, or some odd thing like that?
lol idk im just throwing it out there, mine does it all the time ive tried everything, and im still looking for the cure, good luck
lol idk im just throwing it out there, mine does it all the time ive tried everything, and im still looking for the cure, good luck
03-30-2010, 09:21 AM
#13
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Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
blow it up..... lol jk man i cant believe this is still happening to you. maybe try a po6 or something like that and see if it still pops on, i would send you my p28 but thats going to be in use very soon
03-30-2010, 09:23 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
Im leaning towards this NOT being an ecu problem. I havent found anything saying the temp ratings are dependent on the ECU. Most of these IAT's are the same as far as D series, then again for B series they are the same.
03-30-2010, 09:30 AM
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
Do you have any type od datalogger or tuning capability? I've used s300 to diagnose an iat issue before...I started the car and hondata read 173*F lol turned out to be a corroded pin...
And don't forget that these cars are heading towards 20yrs old...corroded pins, frayed wiring and bad ecu's are becoming more common.
My car complete shut off on me once because I popped the ecu fuse...replaced it and drove 3 days before the same thing happened again. As it turns out the o2 signal wire had frayed and would touch the subframe when I hit a big enough bump...**** happens.
And don't forget that these cars are heading towards 20yrs old...corroded pins, frayed wiring and bad ecu's are becoming more common.
My car complete shut off on me once because I popped the ecu fuse...replaced it and drove 3 days before the same thing happened again. As it turns out the o2 signal wire had frayed and would touch the subframe when I hit a big enough bump...**** happens.
03-30-2010, 09:36 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
Do you have any type od datalogger or tuning capability? I've used s300 to diagnose an iat issue before...I started the car and hondata read 173*F lol turned out to be a corroded pin...
And don't forget that these cars are heading towards 20yrs old...corroded pins, frayed wiring and bad ecu's are becoming more common.
My car complete shut off on me once because I popped the ecu fuse...replaced it and drove 3 days before the same thing happened again. As it turns out the o2 signal wire had frayed and would touch the subframe when I hit a big enough bump...**** happens.
And don't forget that these cars are heading towards 20yrs old...corroded pins, frayed wiring and bad ecu's are becoming more common.
My car complete shut off on me once because I popped the ecu fuse...replaced it and drove 3 days before the same thing happened again. As it turns out the o2 signal wire had frayed and would touch the subframe when I hit a big enough bump...**** happens.
03-31-2010, 05:01 AM
#17
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Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
could it possibly be a bad sensor from honda?? if its not then i am lost or the signals are getting all screwed around somewhere.
03-31-2010, 06:08 AM
#18
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Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
03-31-2010, 09:58 AM
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03-31-2010, 10:08 AM
#20
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Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
03-31-2010, 10:10 AM
#21
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Re: Still have code 10, eg z6
around a month ago, some guy i know was running a jdm h23 red top in an eg si with a virgin p28, i dont know why.
Anyway, he let me use his ecu and we went for a test drive to see if my vtec worked (i forgot i disconnected my o2 so of course not)...but the car drove so much better with the p28.
Anyway, he let me use his ecu and we went for a test drive to see if my vtec worked (i forgot i disconnected my o2 so of course not)...but the car drove so much better with the p28.
03-31-2010, 12:05 PM
#24
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