blk2mid2sol

the frustration...


94' del sol si w/ b16a swap with usdm p30
-no major mods to the engine just the typical i/h/e

Things I did before this started happening;

I changed out…

-The oil pan w/ new gasket (it was pretty beat up and leaking)
-Cam plug (leaking oil)
-Changed cap and rotor, also changed out plugs to NGK iridiums
-New vtec o ring (was cracked and held together with silicone)
-Did a valve lash adjustment (.008" on exhaust and .007" on intake)
-Oil sandwich plate (the oil pressure sensor was not connected, so hooked it up to the plate)
-Changed out the fuel filter (it was never changed and had about 170k on it)
-After all of this filled her up with a can of 'restore' and high mileage motor oil
-Switched her to the on position a few times to get the fuel pressure up and then started her.

It ran smooth. For a couple of days...

then one day while driving I felt it lagging once the motor hit ~ 2500 rpms on all gears AFTER driving it for a few miles, for the first few miles it would drive perfectly fine.

While lagging the rpms would travel up very slowly and the car would feel as if it is trying to climb up a steep hill at WOT. then right about 3500-4000 rpms it would just kick in and pull.

there are no cels

since then replaced the distributor (reman) and wires (duralast).
also replaced o2 sensor

edit:
the fuel pressure from fuel filter to rail is ~36psi

still lagging on me.

what do you guys think? any comments welcome.

TIA


EDIT:

checked for cels anyway, even though the light was not on, and found two codes.

41 Primary oxygen sensor heater

17 VSS - speed sensor

even though i just replaced my o2 sensor and my speedo works fine.

ideas?


Modified by blk2mid2sol at 12:34 AM 9/11/2007

Syndacate

When you checked the fuel pressure, was the vacuum line going from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold unplugged?

It NEEDS to be unplugged to get an accurate (non-vacuum drawn) reading, then just cover the nipple on the intake manifold so you don't get a crappy idle due to the vacuum leak.

blk2mid2sol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you checked the fuel pressure, was the vacuum line going from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold unplugged?

It NEEDS to be unplugged to get an accurate (non-vacuum drawn) reading, then just cover the nipple on the intake manifold so you don't get a crappy idle due to the vacuum leak.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, when i set the fuel pressure the vacuum line was unplugged. it was actually set at 36 psi but it reads 30psi with the vacuum hose connected.

Syndacate

The pressure when the vacuum line is connected is 100% irrelevant because there's a vacuum being drawn on the pressure regulator.

36psi is a bit low.

B16A2 should have 40-47psi.

blk2mid2sol

ill reset the fuel pressure tonight, do you think that could be my problem?

instrument

cel??

blk2mid2sol

there are no cels

blk2mid2sol

anyone?

bballchris24

i just started to have that problem on my 99 si too. anyone have any other suggestions

blk2mid2sol

just set the fuel pressure to ~42psi and still having problems... any other suggestions?

blk2mid2sol

bumP!

GYChris

same prob here, feels like the wind is blowing against me while taking off between 2k - 3k rpms

blk2mid2sol

TTT<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGchris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">same prob here, feels like the wind is blowing against me while taking off between 2k - 3k rpms</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah it sucks...

blk2mid2sol

alright since i was running out of ideas, i decided to check for cels even though the light was not on and what do you know... this is what i found...

17 VSS - speed sensor

41 Primary oxygen sensor heater


these two codes popped up. it's weird how my cel does not turn on while the car is running or driven...

reset the ecu and did another read, and the 2 cels are still there.


think this could be my problem?

man i just replaced the o2 sensor and my speedo works fine...

anyone?

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk2mid2sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright since i was running out of ideas, i decided to check for cels even though the light was not on and what do you know... this is what i found...

17 VSS - speed sensor

41 Primary oxygen sensor heater


these two codes popped up. it's weird how my cel does not turn on while the car is running or driven...

reset the ecu and did another read, and the 2 cels are still there.


think this could be my problem?

man i just replaced the o2 sensor and my speedo works fine...

anyone?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's most likely a short.

Check fuse #15 under the dash, see if it's blown.

Fuse #15 controls the primary and secondary o2 sensor heaters, the vehicle speed sensor, and the alternator switch control. Usually when you got a speed sensor and an O2 heater, it's a short in that area. Though if fuse #15 was blown, your speedo wouldn't work. It could be making light contact though.

In any event, check the wiring to both the VSS and the O2 sensor. On the O2 sensor I believe the black wire is the heater.

BTW: I'd set the pressure to 45.

JDM EM1 17

any check engine lights

Extradition

Definitely a wiring issue. I would say disable O2 and put the car in closed loop, but you probably don't have a chipped ecu...

blk2mid2sol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's most likely a short.

Check fuse #15 under the dash, see if it's blown.

Fuse #15 controls the primary and secondary o2 sensor heaters, the vehicle speed sensor, and the alternator switch control. Usually when you got a speed sensor and an O2 heater, it's a short in that area. Though if fuse #15 was blown, your speedo wouldn't work. It could be making light contact though.

In any event, check the wiring to both the VSS and the O2 sensor. On the O2 sensor I believe the black wire is the heater.

BTW: I'd set the pressure to 45.</TD></TR></TABLE>

alright ill reset the fpr again, also i checked all fuses under hood and under dash all fuses are fine. (used bussmann fuse tester)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM EM1 17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any check engine lights</TD></TR></TABLE>

??? ...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Extradition &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Definitely a wiring issue. I would say disable O2 and put the car in closed loop, but you probably don't have a chipped ecu...</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are right, i do not have a chipped ecu just a virgin p30

do you guys think that this could be causing the lagging?

blk2mid2sol

a few questions...

is there any other reason why i would be throwing a code for VSS when my speedo works?

how do i check the wires to the VSS and O2 sensors to make sure they are in proper working condition?

should i start thinking about getting another O2 sensor?


any replies welcome,
TIA

Luserkid

Do you have access to another ecu? Weither it be p06 or p28 or anything? I say try another ecu. If the problem is still there then i suggest checking your wiring from the VSS to the ecu. That is 99% of your problem for the lagging.

blk2mid2sol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have access to another ecu? Weither it be p06 or p28 or anything? I say try another ecu. If the problem is still there then i suggest checking your wiring from the VSS to the ecu. That is 99% of your problem for the lagging. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll see if i can get a different loaner ECU and give it a shot.

When checking for wiring what exactly am i looking for?

thanks for the response

Luserkid

With the use of a volt meter, jack up your car. Disconnect connector A and B from the ecu (26P and 16P) and put negative to A26 and positive to B10. With the car in the ON position have someone rotate the wheels by hand (first right then left). Should read 0-12V. If it doesnt check the connection from B10 (yel/blu) to the yel/blu on the VSS.

JdelMsolG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk2mid2sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'll see if i can get a different loaner ECU and give it a shot.

When checking for wiring what exactly am i looking for?

thanks for the response </TD></TR></TABLE>

cuts or breaks in the wire?
haha, this problem happens alot i think.

blk2mid2sol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the use of a volt meter, jack up your car. Disconnect connector A and B from the ecu (26P and 16P) and put negative to A26 and positive to B10. With the car in the ON position have someone rotate the wheels by hand (first right then left). Should read 0-12V. If it doesnt check the connection from B10 (yel/blu) to the yel/blu on the VSS. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdelMsolG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

cuts or breaks in the wire?
haha, this problem happens alot i think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is my first honda. and it hasn't really been a smooth ride lol.

JdelMsolG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk2mid2sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


this is my first honda. and it hasn't really been a smooth ride lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>


haha tell me about it.
i finished my first swap about 4 months ago.
b16 into a 94 del sol s.
took me 2 months to get **** straight.
and vtec still doesnt engage, waiting on a new selonoid in the mail.
but they say, its always worth it in the end.