phelpsj2

hey guys, i was given an ls block to me for free from a friend with just the ls rods and pistons. I wanted to start a project, and i want to build this thing right. I WANT EVERYONES OPINIONS.

How would u build it?
I dont know if i should built it for boost a year or two down the road
should i build it all motor and uild it for higher compresion with new pistons and rods.
What head is the best to slap on.
should i go b16 with gsr cams or just gsr head

i can go many ways with this. what way is the best and most reliable.

boxeocampeon

if you build it for high compression right now your just going to have to rebuild it again later because boost needs to have lower compression. my recomendation is to build it with forged pistons and rods as if you were going to boost it. get a good intake manifold and use the OEM headers for now. get a vtec head also and build that probably the GSR would be best. get the motor in for now and then put the turbo on later. youll just have to pull the motor again if you build with high compression right now and plan on boosting later.

phelpsj2

do u think it wold be safe nd reliable if i built it fr higher compression and used the gsr head and went all motor. im looking for like 200 hp

Linked

you sure you wont want more hp? 200hp NA is doable but boosting promises a higher whp at a cheaper price

phelpsj2

i have a d16y5 right now. i got the ls block for free. i just wanna know the most reliable, cheapest, and best way to build. i was gonna do just a gsr swap but then got the block and it would be fun to do. i just wanna make a pretty fast dd that is fun and can beat some people.

team 15

If you want to go all motor
You should get
Forge ls rods (for torque)
jdm ctr b16 pistons (for high compress)
balance crankshaft, rod bearing (Handling power)
block guard (high reving)
itr oil pump
timing belt
ARP head stud

Gsr head
skunk2 or brian crower valvetrain
Skunk2 or brian crower cams or what ever you like
High compression valve
Golden Eagle ls vtec conversion kit
tune ecu w/ handata or chrome
I/H/E
and a b16 lsd or itr tranny

My buddy has this setup but w/ a gsr tranny
he ran 12.2 at the track 1/4 mile(w/ stock tires only and 91 pump gas)
Plus it's on an integra body( a good driver too)

If it's in a hatch or crx and w/ slicks, itr tanny or b16 lsd
it'll be FLYING like crazy

boxeocampeon

you can def make it reliable with a high compression build but i hope you arent hoping for more than 200hp. i gaurantee youll want more later. do what ^^ said thats a good build if you wanna go all motor.

phelpsj2

ya i like everything except the b16 tranny. ima go with the gsr tranny since i make high way drives back home and dont like to be on the highway at 4500 lol. i have the hx coupe, so id be happy with 14.s let alone 12;s lol. i got a d16 runnin 17.03's lol 14's will be fine enough.

boxeocampeon

good luck start up a build thread once you get going

thumper64

Sorry, but you have some misinformation in here.
Rods will not make any more power. Stock rods will actually make more power because they are lighter. Now, if you start revving higher or go forced induction, they won't be strong enough to handle the extra power.

CTR pistons have a giant dome that is not good for flame travel. Besides, anything over 11.5:1 is not necessary unless you have very aggressive cams.

Block guards are not necessary at all. In theory, in drag racing it could help, but on a DD they can cause overheating by blocking coolant flow around the water jacket. Without proper installation, they can cause the cylinders to become oddly shaped.

ITR water pumps are great, except from I believe 1996 on, all LS, GSR and B20s used the same water pumps and oil pumps.

ARP head studs are not required, though yes, financially it's smarter since it's cheaper in the long run.

Recommending any Skunk2 or BC cams, not a wise idea. Aftermarket cams are more aggressive than any OEM cams, which is good for power but if someone wants a DD, sacrificing a few ponies for better valvetrain life wouldn't be a bad idea. LMAs, rockers, etc are not cheap.

The Golden Eagle LSV conversion is...not an ideal kit. I have heard in the past (they may have fixed this) that they include the incorrect head gasket.



Between the valves, shorter deck height, longer stroke, pistons, very high compression would result and there would be little room for error. Also, ring life would likely be shorter than normal. A good tune would be absolutely necessary.

I'm not trying to be a jerk or anything, I just don't like seeing everyone recommending CTR pistons when people don't understand that compression alone doesn't make power and that those pistons are not the best way of achieving it.

thumper64

And to people saying to drop compression when going turbo, why? People have made 250 safely on STOCK GSR motors, and up to 400-500 or so when getting crazy. Why drop compression and lose low end unless you have to? How many of us need more than 250hp to drive to the work, school, the movies, or pass someone on the interstate? Also, how able are you to tap into that?
Few of us are racers, so why build our cars for racing unless that is their soul purpose? There's a certain line I believe a lot of people cross where the car no longer belongs on the street. Super high compression or extremely low compression where boost is needed to get around, extreme cams that can't idle right, loud exhausts that wake up neighbors, that stuff belongs at the track.