T"u"Rtle

Okay this is really trippin me out, I have a constant check engine light for codes 3 and 7 and yet my VTEC is still engaging. Isn't it not supposed to engage when the ECU is in LIMP mode?? Do you think my ECU is buggin out??

T"u"Rtle

cmon anybody have any idea?? U think Im throwing the code 3(MAP sensor) because I have a A'Pexi SAFC which hacks the MAP sensor??

saxman

you sure you're in limp mode? you shouldn't even be able to get to vtec engagement if you're in limp mode, much less actually have it engage

T"u"Rtle

exactly what I'm saying and there's no doubting the fact that its engaging I can hear it and see the VTEC X-OVER light up on my VTEC controller and before I changed my black *** oil the X-OVER light would not light up or anything. I know I'm in LIMP mode because right when I start the car the CHECK ENGINE light comes on and stays on as long as the car is on.

saxman

just because the check engine light is on doesn't necessarily mean you're in limp mode...

T"u"Rtle

okay then what does it mean?? I have always read, been told, heard that is the case. Ur telling me all those people are wrong?? Anybody agree with him??

saxman

if you're in safe mode, the check engine light is on

however, just because the check engine light is on, doesn't necessarily mean you're in safe mode

It really depends on what the problem is. The check engine light is there to say somethign is wrong, and to help diagnose the problems. The car goes into safe mode when it's saying "holy ****, if I don't limp to somewhere to get fixed, I'm going to die."


Go unplug the map sensor completely, and turn the car on. It should idle like ****, sound like it's going to fall apart, and will definetely be in safe mode. ok, maybe you shouldn't, but you get the idea.

T"u"Rtle

Dude that post is not making sense, in one sense your saying it doesn't mean its in LIMP mode and in another sense your saying it is in LIMP mode. I'm just gonna take it as I know it, it's in LIMP mode. Can anybody help me fix it?? Like I said Im throwing codes 3 and 7 MAP and TPS. I don't think its the sensors I think its the wiring.

saxman

no no no

If the car is in limp mode, you're definetely going to have a check engine light.
However, just because you have a check engine light, doesn't mean you're in limp mode.

Kinda like how a square is a rectangle, but a rectangle isn't necessarily a square.


Let me simplify. Having a check engine light doesn't mean you're in limp mode. I haven't heard you say anything that suggests your car is in limp mode other than you thinking that it is because you have a cel.

T"u"Rtle

Dude what do you mean I haven't said anything that would suggest it being in LIMP mode? What does it take to know its in LIMP mode, for it to be spelled out across my gauge cluster?? My check engine light automatically comes on right after I start the car up, not even a second later and it does not come off whatsoever until the car is completely turned off. So you tell me, is that LIMP mode or not?? What am I supposed to hear a beep when it goes into LIMP mode?

saxman

no, that isn't limp mode. That's as simple as you have a check engine light


limp mode = car runs really rough, redline is basically dropped to 3k rpm, will sound like you're misfiring, etc

T"u"Rtle

Well I definitely misfire but I've always misfired. So will this harm the engine if I continue to drive on it like this, I don't plan on driving on it like this, but it is my daily driver. I hope to get it fixed ASAP.

japan4racing

the cel will illuminate when there is an error..such as your code 3 and your code 7. when there is codes to be retrieved the cel will light up.

now. it is lit up becuase you have the 3 and 7 codes. fix these and your cel will go off.

what he is saying is this:

in any case that you have a code getting thrown the check engine light will illuminate. thats is to let you know that you need to check the codes to trouble shoot the problem.

when you are in limp mode this becuase something serious is going on..at which time the check engine light will illuminate. one of the codes you will get will be the cause of going into limp mode.

if you can rev past 3k rpms you are NOT in limp mode. vtec controllers (when hooked up wrong) have been known to cause little probs like this. im not saying you did not know what you were doing when you instaled it but sometimes we make mistakes. go over your wiring and start trouble shooting what ever codes you got.

what is the deal with you changing the black *** oil? did vtec work prior to that?

saxman

I don't mean misfire everyonce in a while, I mean sound like you pulled off a plug wire.

considering you're getting a cel for the map sensor and for the tps sensor, I'd say the problem is a result of the vafc as you're guessing.

It probably won't blow up from running with it like that for a short while, but I wouldn't recommend doing it for long periods of times, and I certainly wouldn't put a lot of load on the car(keep the revs WAY down and don't go flooring it, etc)

T"u"Rtle

yeah see all this started after this supposed top dog Honda guy decided to cut some wires under my hood for who knows what reason. As a result I had no speedo, temperature gauge and I was throwing these codes. I have fixed the speedo so its working the rest is still not working. Yeah I know what you mean about wiring thats why I dont play guessing games either I know how to completely do something or I don't do it at all. No ghetto rigged **** for me. So now I have to go through my whole wire harness then and solder everything and make sure everything has good connections. You see I got the car this way with the half *** engine harness and wiring and the A'Pexi SAFC and VTEC controller already hooked up so now I have to go through and do everything right the way it should have been done in the first place.

saxman

personally if I was going through all that work, i would put it back to stock wiring, but I also hate vafc's

T"u"Rtle

Yeah Im gonna dump that POS SAFC and VTEC controller and get Hondata, both aren't needed just there for looks in my opinion.

T"u"Rtle

I can't necessarily put it back to stock wiring unless you just mean removing the SAFC and VTEC controller. I have a OBD-2 motor with a OBD-1 wiring harness(GSR) dizzy and P28 ECU, I can go through it and clean it all up with new connector pins and soldering connections and wiring and what not make it just as good.

japan4racing

this is what i would do...i hate cut harness's...:

1) buy new harness

2) install new harness

3) throw vafc away...if you are tuning with a vafc you have no business tuning

4)stab previous owner in the throat

5) drink a beer and watch family guy

saxman

I pretty much meant just getting rid of the afc

T"u"Rtle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japan4racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is what i would do...i hate cut harness's...:

1) buy new harness

2) install new harness

3) throw vafc away...if you are tuning with a vafc you have no business tuning

4)stab previous owner in the throat

5) drink a beer and watch family guy

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah dude I wish I could do this too man, but I am money strapped to the fullest. So I have to do the best I can with the amount I have a new engine harness is gonna cost me and then the time and effort its gonna take to put it in also is gonna kill me. But yeah I wish I could stab the previous owner in the throat, but I can still watch family guy but I think I'll go watch South Park right now since its on. Whoever tunes with an SAFC or VAFC is a complete moron.