Installed new valves now it idles high....
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Installed new valves now it idles high....
Well I started losing compression in my 3rd cylinder and found that i had burnt thru a valve. so i ripped it apart and installed all new valves in that cylinder. We set the timing and everything is started right up everytime. But once i turn on the car it will shot to 2000rpms and drop to around 1500 then after a while of running finally idle around 1000 but sometimes it iwll stay at 1500 for a while. Does anyone know of what this can be? Could it be my timing is off? Or possibly my tps going bad? Thanks
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Re: (B18Sleeper)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Sleeper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am pretty sure its correct and there is 113k miles on the car. how can i check the ignition timing? </TD></TR></TABLE>
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#5
you need a timing light really, i know it can affect where the idle is, but not sure that it will affect it sitting that high for a while. Thats not really a lot of miles on the car, but the fitv controls the idle during start up until its warmed up, you could try cleaning it and see if that fixs it.
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Re: (yoffer)
Oh your talking about my timing belt ok I had dumb moment I was thinking something to do with my dizzy. My bad. I will check that **** monday when i get back to the shop. but to set the timing i lined up the marks on the cams and mark on the belt with the block. But is the timing the only thing that could cause this.
#7
Re: (B18Sleeper)
A timing gun/light is used for ign timing, not engine timing. They are timing marks on the crank you go by that you read with the timing gun, and move the dizzy to adjust.
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Re: (z6hatchboy)
Yea we adjusted the dizzy several times and it stills starts and revs to 2k rpms then falls down. but i will run a timing light on the belt and adjust it again which mark do u go by? there is 3 on the belt i believe hell it was a week ago when i looked at it. thanks tho
#10
Re: (yoffer)
find top dead center on piston one again and use the timing marks on your cam gear I think its straight up or horizontal (forget which one) also there is a way to reset idle but I forget what exactly it is something about clamping the house from your fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold and restarting the car Its in the manual you can download em at spoonhonda
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Re: (venomzz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by venomzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">find top dead center on piston one again and use the timing marks on your cam gear I think its straight up or horizontal (forget which one) also there is a way to reset idle but I forget what exactly it is something about clamping the house from your fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold and restarting the car Its in the manual you can download em at spoonhonda</TD></TR></TABLE>
We are talking about ignition timing, not engine timing. And just FYI, sounds like a IACV acting up to me.
We are talking about ignition timing, not engine timing. And just FYI, sounds like a IACV acting up to me.
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Re: (B18Sleeper)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Sleeper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea we adjusted the dizzy several times and it stills starts and revs to 2k rpms then falls down. but i will run a timing light on the belt and adjust it again which mark do u go by? there is 3 on the belt i believe hell it was a week ago when i looked at it. thanks tho</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like it is idling high at first cuz of the engine being cold. From what I understand, in a cold start the engine will idle at about 2000 rpms, then go to about 1500 rpms, then drop down to a normal idle. I believe it is to help the engine warm up so you dont drive on an extremely cold engine.
As someone else already said, it may be your iacv acting up too. You may want to clean your iacv and see if anything improves (you can find a how-to in this forum's FAQ/how-to section).
Sounds like it is idling high at first cuz of the engine being cold. From what I understand, in a cold start the engine will idle at about 2000 rpms, then go to about 1500 rpms, then drop down to a normal idle. I believe it is to help the engine warm up so you dont drive on an extremely cold engine.
As someone else already said, it may be your iacv acting up too. You may want to clean your iacv and see if anything improves (you can find a how-to in this forum's FAQ/how-to section).
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Re: (phyzJunkieCivic)
yes once the head was on i check the rad fluid then flushed it several times. and tomorrow when i get back to the shop i will check the iacv and clean it and see if that helps. it may just be the cold i aint sure but i never done this before i put the new valves in i know that. thanks everyone though.
#16
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Re: (B18Sleeper)
whats the weather like there? I freaked out because recently i blew a head gasket, replaced it after like a week, and freaked out when it idled ridiculously high, i didn''t realize a lot of hondas do that when it gets cold. as many people have said though, try the iacv. I did, didn't help, but at least i know it's clean.
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Re: (Joecivic94)
well i cleaned out the iacv and it helped out the idle and now it idles right around 1k like it should after i adjusted the dizzy. but as far as the valve lash why would it be that if i do not have a valve ticking? just wondering on how that would affect the idle maybe stupid but just never heard that. thanks everyone though
#20
Re: (Colby71)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Colby71 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">valve lash will not affect your idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Idle smoothness, yes. Idle speed, no. If you ripped off the head, double check for vacuum leaks. I know there is a little vacuum line at the back of the manifold, drivers side that came off on me and caused all kinds of headaches. And MAKE SURE all the air bubbles are purged from the engine coolant. I did a coolant change and had a big fluctuating idle, and it turned out I had a **** ton of air in the system. Took 45 minutes to completely purge it.
Idle smoothness, yes. Idle speed, no. If you ripped off the head, double check for vacuum leaks. I know there is a little vacuum line at the back of the manifold, drivers side that came off on me and caused all kinds of headaches. And MAKE SURE all the air bubbles are purged from the engine coolant. I did a coolant change and had a big fluctuating idle, and it turned out I had a **** ton of air in the system. Took 45 minutes to completely purge it.
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Re: (King V)
i checked the vaccum lines cause that was the first thing i thought of, but how do u completely purge the coolant lines ?
#22
Re: (B18Sleeper)
I got mine from my friendly Snap-On dealer, but a "spill free funnel" is what I use. Kinda like a bucket that fits onto the filler neck of the radiator. Fill it with coolant, start the car, let it run, it burps itself.
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