boostincoupe

I've had nothing but hell from oil pans lately.

Background: I removed my OEM D16Y8 oil pan when I turbocharged my car 3 years ago, and put on a tapped Z6 pan that was included with my turbo kit. For some reason, it never leaked until I took it off 2 weeks ago.

I took off the tapped pan with my turbo kit to sell it, and I found a stock D16Y8 oil pan to put on. However, there was no gasket on it, so I needed to install one. I tried putting on the oil pan gasket properly, but it just wouldn't seal right. I used a light bead of Permatex Grey on the pan, installed the gasket and bolted it up to my motor. It wouldn't sit flush, and leaked out oil very quickly.

So I found a Y7 pan laying around, with the gasket already attached and installed that. Last night when driving home, my car starts smoking, and I see oil coming out from the oil pan gasket area.

I'm going to try putting a brand new gasket on the Y8 pan that I've got laying around. Any tips on how to properly install the gasket so I don't have to deal with this BS anymore?

Luserkid

The y8 uses that really thin oil pan gasket doesnt it? Try buying a new one and using hondabond then torquing it down in this order (i forgot how many nuts and bolts there are so im going to say 13, but youll get the idea)


5........9....... 1........ 7......... 3
............................................11
13 ....................................... 12
6.......10.......2............8........4

mainly what you do is screw the nuts in order first til they sit, then do the bolts, when your done with the bolts go over one more time and just make sure there good.

EE_Chris

Having a straight oil pan is a must - no ifs, ands or buts about it. If it's not sitting flush, then don't bother using it.

Make sure to use an OEM oil pan gasket and HondaBond. Looking at the Helms, there are only a couple of spots you put the HondaBond on (similar to the areas on the valve cover gasket when re-installing it). Make sure you also do NOT overtighten the nuts/bolts. That alone can squish the gasket enough to cause this problem. Even though my Y7 oil pan had stand-offs on it, I was still cautious as to how tight I made things.

boostincoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Having a straight oil pan is a must - no ifs, ands or buts about it. If it's not sitting flush, then don't bother using it.

Make sure to use an OEM oil pan gasket and HondaBond. Looking at the Helms, there are only a couple of spots you put the HondaBond on (similar to the areas on the valve cover gasket when re-installing it). Make sure you also do NOT overtighten the nuts/bolts. That alone can squish the gasket enough to cause this problem. Even though my Y7 oil pan had stand-offs on it, I was still cautious as to how tight I made things.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do I let the Hondabond sit and dry before installing the pan? And do the little dots on the oil pan gasket face down, or up? Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

ralphie14

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do I let the Hondabond sit and dry before installing the pan? And do the little dots on the oil pan gasket face down, or up? Does anyone know what I'm talking about? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't let it dry it is going to aid in sealing the pan and gasket, it needs to be able to squish and get into the spots that need it. As for the dots I can't remember I put my Moroso pan on a few months ago but can't remember, sorry.

boostincoupe

How do I get the gasket to sit flush like this?

DelSol13

from the looks of the picture.......have you tried cleaning off the old gasket before putting on the permatex?
after cleaning the pan try laying it down on a flat surface and make sure the pan isnt warped.

boostincoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DelSol13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from the looks of the picture.......have you tried cleaning off the old gasket before putting on the permatex?
after cleaning the pan try laying it down on a flat surface and make sure the pan isnt warped.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That picture isn't my oil pan. My oil pan doesn't have the gasket on it currently. I just wanted to show how I want the gasket to sit when installed.

EE_Chris

Def don't let the HondaBond dry, as mentioned above. As for which side the dots go on, no clue about that.

When I did my Y7 oil pan gasket, I'm pretty sure (though it's been quite awhile) that the stand-offs also acted as guides for the gasket. It didn't keep it perfectly flat, but it kept it lined up enough to snugg up the nuts/bolts.

Jmunk

I didn't think that you could put a z6 pan on a y8 ??? Don't over torque the bolts.

NJcoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jmunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't think that you could put a z6 pan on a y8 ??? Don't over torque the bolts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't think so either cause of the pick ups?

EK79

just change the oil pan gasket on my b16 went through 2 of them make sure you use a small torque wrench overtighting the bolts will lead to failure.....i learned the hard way other than that helms gives some good advice.