Help with my "mini-me" swap, pics of cyclinder head....
#1
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Help with my "mini-me" swap, pics of cyclinder head....
Below are some pics of my cylinder head ,and as you can see the head doesn't look like it's in great codition. By looking at these pictures or if you need a different angle or something let me know ,but please tell me what I should do with this cylinder head!
Obviously I'm thinking I need to take it to a shop, have it cleaned and install new valves and spark plugs....
Any recommendations as far as what your opinions might be as far as were to take this......
thanks ahead of time for the help....
Obviously I'm thinking I need to take it to a shop, have it cleaned and install new valves and spark plugs....
Any recommendations as far as what your opinions might be as far as were to take this......
thanks ahead of time for the help....
#2
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Re: Help with my "mini-me" swap, pics of cyclinder head.... (draneusmc)
looks fine to me.....as long as valves aren't bent and it is straight should be good to go!
#3
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Re: Help with my "mini-me" swap, pics of cyclinder head.... (draneusmc)
yeah i don't think it looks too shabby....
maybe get it hot tanked? that might help clean it up a little
maybe get it hot tanked? that might help clean it up a little
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Re: Help with my "mini-me" swap, pics of cyclinder head.... (CivicVX94)
****, you should have seen my old y8 head....that bitch was UGLY.
yours looks just fine. you dont even need to do anything other than throw it on. looks good post pics of the swap in cosmetics/ap when your dont
yours looks just fine. you dont even need to do anything other than throw it on. looks good post pics of the swap in cosmetics/ap when your dont
#7
Re: (tmkpres)
I have the mini-me swap on my DX Hatch and it's well worth it. You can deffenitely feel the extra power, epsecially with vtec.
So far, I have put about 10k miles on it without a problem. Actually tonight I heard some raddling (posted a thread about it) but that isn't related to the swap.
I also still get GREAT gas milage!
So far, I have put about 10k miles on it without a problem. Actually tonight I heard some raddling (posted a thread about it) but that isn't related to the swap.
I also still get GREAT gas milage!
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Re: (yonnage)
yeah man the head looks fine 2 me too. my friends looks like crap. the oil was freakin black like the oil was from the engine's first day. whats with the to top valves in the 2nd combustion chamber.
Modified by brixity at 7:50 AM 8/28/2004
Modified by brixity at 7:50 AM 8/28/2004
#9
Re: (brixity)
remember to check for warpage
and check for strait valves like mentioned above.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brixity »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats with the to top valves in the 2nd combustion chamber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are open
and check for strait valves like mentioned above.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brixity »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats with the to top valves in the 2nd combustion chamber.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are open
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Re: (Br1anPham)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Br1anPham »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They are open</TD></TR></TABLE>
never had the valves open when i took mine off or my brothers. thanks.
They are open</TD></TR></TABLE>
never had the valves open when i took mine off or my brothers. thanks.
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I apologize but I have never dealt with a cylinder head before ,but how do I check for warpage and straight valves?
Like checking the valve lash?
Thanks again for the help......
Like checking the valve lash?
Thanks again for the help......
#12
Re: (draneusmc)
For warpage you need a good precision straight edge (steel ruler) and a feeler gauge.
You set the ruler(on its edge) diagonally across the mating surface of the head and you try to slip the feeler gauge under it. The do it the opposite way. And then you lay the ruler along the bolt holes that are on the intake side of the combustion chamber and try to slip the feeler gauge. Repeat for the exhaust side. Then check in between each cylinder and on the outside if 1+4.
Thats warpage in a nutshell. If warpage is less than .0002" resurfacing isn't required.
Pm me if you want to dl a helms manual and it covers all of the procedures.
This is the good 'ole boy method for bent valves. Remove the cam or loosen the rockers so the valves can seat completely and pour gas into the combustion chambers. If there is a bent valve it will drain noticeably quicker. But that could also mean that one of your valves is eaten up or the seat is.
You set the ruler(on its edge) diagonally across the mating surface of the head and you try to slip the feeler gauge under it. The do it the opposite way. And then you lay the ruler along the bolt holes that are on the intake side of the combustion chamber and try to slip the feeler gauge. Repeat for the exhaust side. Then check in between each cylinder and on the outside if 1+4.
Thats warpage in a nutshell. If warpage is less than .0002" resurfacing isn't required.
Pm me if you want to dl a helms manual and it covers all of the procedures.
This is the good 'ole boy method for bent valves. Remove the cam or loosen the rockers so the valves can seat completely and pour gas into the combustion chambers. If there is a bent valve it will drain noticeably quicker. But that could also mean that one of your valves is eaten up or the seat is.
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