JDMAF

Hey guys I have a few problems after swapping a b16a into my 95 del sol...

The motor has been in the car and ran in this car, but when I got it the motor was out of the car and had been on a motor stand for 6 years... After replacing alot of seals and getting it put back in I'm having a few issues...

Setup:
95 del sol S
b16a obd0 converted correctly to obd1
lsd gsr tranny
tri y big tube header (catless. greddy 2.5'' exhuast)
skunk2 intake manifold
68mm TB

1) After burping collant system, with the heat slider all the way hot and the fan off, all 4 hoses get hot... radiator gets hot... reads normall operating temp on gauge... but once I flip the heater fan on, the gauge loses temp all the way down to cold cold. It takes about 4-5 mins for it to get there. But still have heat.

2) The ignition breaks up badly above 3.5 - 4k rpm... needle flys right and bounces around aimlessly untill I shift, and you can't rev out of it, it breaks up all the way to readline... It will not break up if you just rev it in neutral. It has thrown a code a few times when you get on it hard in first but have never been able to retrive code due to it clearing when you shut the car off and I've allways been busy when it happens... I have tried to force it a few times to throw it when I havent been busy... but to no avail...

It also seems to be drinking fuel hard and I'm pretty sure that V-tec won't activate... If you take it easy in 2nd the ignition won't break up as bad...

Any thoughts appriciated...

Former User

-I would replace the thermostat.

-Have the igniter unit in the distributor tested by an auto parts store. You can resistance test the coil yourself.

-How old are the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor?

-When the CEL turns on, pull over and leave the engine running while you pull the CEL code. If code 15 is thrown, then the igniter unit is almost surely bad.

JDMAF

plugs are brand new... wires have no clue... rotor and cap brand new...

Will replace the thermostat...

can the igniotor be tested with a multimeter or does it require a special machine???

Can a switch be wired into the cel plug so when it comes on I can just flip the switch??? I think it would be easier than getting out of the car and pulling up the carpet and hoping I have a paperclip...

Former User

You might want to replace the wires if they are old.

You can test the igniter unit yourself (click here), but it's a little complicated so most people just find an auto parts store that will do the test free. On the other hand, resistance testing the coil is pretty easy (see FAQs sticky).

You could wire up a switch to the service connector. But in the end it may be easier to just jump the service. It's up to you.

JDMAF

I'm updating this so if someone comes across the same issue they know what was up...

Turns out to be alot of things...

The Thermostat was stuck open...

The 3 wires that plug into the ignitor were really loose. Crimped them a little with a pair of pliers and pushed them back on...

Coil was fine... however both screws that hold down the 2 wires that attach to the coil were very loose...

The screw that holds the rotor down to the main shaft was missing... not rattling around the distributor cap just plain missing...

When I installed the new TPS sensor when the motor was on the stand I forgot to tighten the screws all the way down... thats my boo boo...

Car runs amazing... Still throws the code above 6k rpms or so but does not affect anything... at least it throws it every time... I still haven't been in a postion to check it... I need a less busy life...

Thanks Ron for helping out...

sh!ft

might need some wiring help with the ef soon....since you are in houston n all lol