Engine Removal Help
#1
Engine Removal Help
Can some one post me a link for a good write up on a basic removal of a d16z6 im pretty sure i can do it i have all the tools just kinda want a guide line to go by so i dont miss any thing.
#4
#5
Re: Engine Removal Help
Removing a motor isn't hard. It's just exhaust manifold, axles, fuel and coolant lines, throttle cable, brake booster hose, and wires and linkage. Tucking stuff out of the way so it doesn't catch and leaving the two upper motor mounts for last makes it really easy come time to pull it out.
As far as cars go, these are pretty easy to work on.
#7
Re: Engine Removal Help
The shift linkage pin can be a bitch! Thats why it's called the bitch pin.
8mm or 1/4 punch and a hammer. Then just start smacking the ****er. Somtimes the come out easy, others well, you get the hint.
I spent close to 45 minutes pounding one out of my friend's DC, on the other hand,less then 5 minutes on my friend old EG.
Personaly, I would the motor with the harness still hooked up. Will make it easier to hook up/un-hook.
Other than that, coolant hoses, axles, fuel line, throttle cable, and some a few random things.
Be carefull on the hoses going to the heater core. They are well known for being a pain. I would unhook them from the motor, not the firewall.
If the hoese are giving you hell, just cut them and replace them. They won't break the bank to replace.
Don't forget ac/ps if you have it, and the clutch line. If you are using the same trans just unbolt the slave cly, and move it out of the way. This way you won't have to bled the clutch.
It seems like a lot of work, and it is, but just take your time and it will be easy.
Honestly, the motor mounts will give you more trouble then the other things.
Good luck.
8mm or 1/4 punch and a hammer. Then just start smacking the ****er. Somtimes the come out easy, others well, you get the hint.
I spent close to 45 minutes pounding one out of my friend's DC, on the other hand,less then 5 minutes on my friend old EG.
Personaly, I would the motor with the harness still hooked up. Will make it easier to hook up/un-hook.
Other than that, coolant hoses, axles, fuel line, throttle cable, and some a few random things.
Be carefull on the hoses going to the heater core. They are well known for being a pain. I would unhook them from the motor, not the firewall.
If the hoese are giving you hell, just cut them and replace them. They won't break the bank to replace.
Don't forget ac/ps if you have it, and the clutch line. If you are using the same trans just unbolt the slave cly, and move it out of the way. This way you won't have to bled the clutch.
It seems like a lot of work, and it is, but just take your time and it will be easy.
Honestly, the motor mounts will give you more trouble then the other things.
Good luck.
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#9
#10
Re: Engine Removal Help
Having just come through a D-series swap myself, I need to emphasize what someone else said; label everything! A manual definitely helps, but labeling sure makes it less stressful when you're staring at a bunch of vac tubes that look the same...
#13
Re: Engine Removal Help
Get a Haynes manual.
If you are reusing the trans or replacing it entirely(including the shift linkage), you do NOT need to deal with the "bitch pin". I recently pulled out my D16Z6. I pulled the motor with the trans attached and left the shift linkage on the trans. I just disconnected it from the shifter and the motor came out very easily with the linkage arm still connected. Just be careful not to jam or do damage to the linkage during removal, it doesn't really get in the way though.
If you need to remove the shift linkage, doing it with the trans outside of the car would probably be a boat load easier than dealing with it while under the car. More room to work...
Shot of my old motor coming out. I highly suggest a level, it will make things a whole lot easier.
If you are reusing the trans or replacing it entirely(including the shift linkage), you do NOT need to deal with the "bitch pin". I recently pulled out my D16Z6. I pulled the motor with the trans attached and left the shift linkage on the trans. I just disconnected it from the shifter and the motor came out very easily with the linkage arm still connected. Just be careful not to jam or do damage to the linkage during removal, it doesn't really get in the way though.
If you need to remove the shift linkage, doing it with the trans outside of the car would probably be a boat load easier than dealing with it while under the car. More room to work...
Shot of my old motor coming out. I highly suggest a level, it will make things a whole lot easier.
#14
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SpeedRacer420
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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04-23-2010 03:10 PM