jordan88

hi, i have a 98 civic ex coupe with 160k km on it, is it alrite for me to change back to honda engine oil? would there be anything wrong if i change back to honda oil? or should i stick with the synthetic? would my car be running better under synthetic or honda oil?


also with synthetic, i heard there sometimes will be leaks, where would the leaks be? I replace the head gasket and all the glommets already. would i have problems with leaks, or would the oil leaks comes from others places?

thx

yellow_jacket

Generally speaking a car that used a little bit of conventional oil will use a little more synthetic oil. If you were going tohave leaks or burn more oil it would have showed up already. If you are not losing excessive amounts I wouldn't switch back as synthetic is a much better lubricant(you actually can gain a few hp by running syn) If you want to switch back though, just change your oil and filter and put in dino oil.

LSVTEC 91 Civic

bump

AutoXer

All this crap that goes around about switching back and forth causing problems has no basis whatsoever. Back when syn first came out (30 years ago, btw), there were problems with gasket compatibility, and also problems with the oil formulation. Switching back and forth should cause no problems or concerns whatsoever in a modern, well maintained engine. http://www.bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/seals.shtml

LSVTEC 91 Civic

I want to hear from a non-amsoil dealer.. seems all these amsoil dealers feed you all kinds of **** how their oil is best, and if it really was then everybody would be using it. I've been using Mobil 1, burning oil, and smoking a bit. Head is getting rebuilt, when it is back together I want to use another oil. I heard castrol doesn't burn as much, how about other synthetic oils? What is the difference between a synthetic blend and full synthetic?

EK45VTi

Synthetic blend is mineral oil with added synthetic substances to make it more lonlasting, better lubricating and similar...

Full synthetic is the oil created ALL-MAN (in laboratory)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard castrol doesn't burn as much, how about other synthetic oils?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The oil is not auto-burning... your ENGINE is burning it... If I were you, I would rather try some better oil with higher pouring temeprature rating such as CASTROL RS 10w60 full synthetic... That is the best racing/daily oil that you can buy in Europe and if your car meets redline more than once in 2 weeks, you can't miss if you start using it... it is better than Mobil, Shell or Amsoil...

Just a note... this oil (with some additives) is used as a brake-in oil in BMW M3... I shall say no more...

LSVTEC 91 Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KKVTi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CASTROL RS 10w60 full synthetic... That is the best racing/daily oil that you can buy in Europe</TD></TR></TABLE>

I heard that weight of oil would be to thick.. I've been thinking about going from mobil 1 10w-30 back to Honda oil 10w-30..

94CoupeEJ1

The 1st number is the weight of the oil at operating temperature. So 10W30 and 10W60 are the same weight at normal operating temperature. The 2nd number is the weight it moves too at higher than normal temperatures. Typically synthetics stay thinner than regular dino oil at cold temperatures so they are easier starting in cold areas. Synthetics are oils that have been reformulated. They are made from dino or vegetable oils. The base oils molecular structure is changed (atoms are rearranged in the molecule) so that they are atomically different. Most synthetic oils have dino oil as their base. Mobil 1 does not have a dino oil base. It doesn't really matter what base the synthetic came from because it no longer resembles it's original. It's like it's been genetically altered. Synthetics are vastly superior to non-synthetics. They are up to 400 times slipperier than common dino oil. Wear happens in your engine from moving oil rubbing against stationary oil. As engines age the gaps grow. If it's burning 10W30 try 15W40 or 20W50 in the summer. I'd go back to 10W30 in the winter though.

dantastic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CoupeEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 1st number is the weight of the oil at operating temperature. So 10W30 and 10W60 are the same weight at normal operating temperature. The 2nd number is the weight it moves too at higher than normal temperatures. Typically synthetics stay thinner than regular dino oil at cold temperatures so they are easier starting in cold areas. Synthetics are oils that have been reformulated. They are made from dino or vegetable oils. The base oils molecular structure is changed (atoms are rearranged in the molecule) so that they are atomically different. Most synthetic oils have dino oil as their base. Mobil 1 does not have a dino oil base. It doesn't really matter what base the synthetic came from because it no longer resembles it's original. It's like it's been genetically altered. Synthetics are vastly superior to non-synthetics. They are up to 400 times slipperier than common dino oil. Wear happens in your engine from moving oil rubbing against stationary oil. As engines age the gaps grow. If it's burning 10W30 try 15W40 or 20W50 in the summer. I'd go back to 10W30 in the winter though. </TD></TR></TABLE>




the first # is the cold viscosity, the second is the warm viscosity. for most cars, honda reccomends 5w30 in climates that get under 50 degrees, 10w30 or 5 w30 for climates that stay above 50 degrees. i use 10w30 year round here in cali. 5w30 is thinner at startup than 10w30. both have the same weight when the engine is warm. if you're burning oil, i would go one step thicker, either 5w40 or 10w40 in conventional


http://www.valvoline.com/carca...601ov for an explanation of the #'s on the bottle

EK45VTi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CoupeEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 1st number is the weight of the oil at operating temperature. So 10W30 and 10W60 are the same weight at normal operating temperature. The 2nd number is the weight it moves too at higher than normal temperatures. Typically synthetics stay thinner than regular dino oil at cold temperatures so they are easier starting in cold areas. Synthetics are oils that have been reformulated. They are made from dino or vegetable oils. The base oils molecular structure is changed (atoms are rearranged in the molecule) so that they are atomically different. Most synthetic oils have dino oil as their base. Mobil 1 does not have a dino oil base. It doesn't really matter what base the synthetic came from because it no longer resembles it's original. It's like it's been genetically altered. Synthetics are vastly superior to non-synthetics. They are up to 400 times slipperier than common dino oil. Wear happens in your engine from moving oil rubbing against stationary oil. As engines age the gaps grow. If it's burning 10W30 try 15W40 or 20W50 in the summer. I'd go back to 10W30 in the winter though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

BEEEEEEEEEEEPPPPPPPPP

WROOOOOOOONG

10w40 - 10 is a winter viscositiy and 40 is a 100 'C viscosity...

If you have cold winters and I mean COLD, stick with 5w... and if your summer temperature goes high and I mean HIGH (say 40'C or 110'F) 40w or 50w and 60w are the way to go...

If your climate is moderate... Mobil1 5w30 is the way to go...

It is all about temperatures...

10w60 is the best viscosity for European climate (Germany, Austria, Italy, Croatia, Slovenia etc.), but 10w40 will also be more than sufficient... but if the car offten sees a redline, 10w60 is recommended...

But I guess most people in US are more than satisfied with 5w30 so that would my first choice...

It's your call...

And one more thing... "synthetic based" or "synthetic technology" oils have dino base and synthetic additives in it...

FULL SYNTHETIC OILS (at least major brands) are ALL-MAN-MADE... there are no dead animals in it

That reminds me of a day when I was in some BIG shopping centre where you can buy everything from a needle to a locomotive... I was like trying to find Shell oil for my car... and as I was looking through the shelves I saw this oil named T-REX 15w40 FULL-MINERAL OIL hahahahahah I couldn't stop laughing all the way home... like someone was joking when they produced that oil...

And the price: $1.09/qt

LSVTEC 91 Civic

Alright, I live in NC.. Summers get pretty damn hot *and humid*, sometimes the heat index hits 110. Winters aren't that cold, it probably gets down to 30 degrees or so at night during mid winter. I think I'm going to go with a Mobil 1 15w40. My engine was built with loose bearing clearances so this shouldn't be a problem.

99b18

the biggest difference about synthetic oil is that the the molecules are closer together.

Shaun

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=874278

yeegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jordan88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I replace the head gasket and all the glommets already. would i have problems with leaks, or would the oil leaks comes from others places?thx</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm how many miles on ur new gasket and glomments? dont you need to break them in before using synthetic oil again?..if you replaced them for awhile already i wiould guess synthetic will be best...if just replace recently i think synthetic oil **** up ur **** already...becuause of sytn's density is much smaller, density smaller = particles volume or size is smaller & mass is smaller = velocity of oil will be quicker and give lesser friction....if the seals are new...most likely leak to come to you quicker...that's the theory...

my engine is stock rebuild i have to wait until it hit 3,000 miles to use synthetic oil...just to ensure that all seals and ***** sealed...so....i dotn know about ur..

ejprimo

the W number has nothing to do with viscosity. it will only tells you its cold cranking performance at a certain temp. range.