Shaun

My question is.. I bought my motor from a person before me that used synthetic oil on the motor before me, Im runing mobil 1 synthetic right now, what I want to know is if its ok to go back to regular oil? sythetic oil gets expensive..

plz no flames

Two_K Si

There is no problem in switching back to conventional oil. You will be fine.

MAKAROV

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Two_K Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no problem in switching back to conventional oil. You will be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
whatup shaun hit me up about that turbo

SpoolinEK9

spend the extra couple bucks and leave that synthetic in there.

Combustion Contraption

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoolinEK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spend the extra couple bucks and leave that synthetic in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>



most intelligent reply yet.

976

Uh, no... Not a single intelligent reply yet... No factional insight, just opinion...

Why it's unsafe to switch between synthetic and conventional...

1. Conventional oil builds up a 'sludge' on the cylinder walls which helps protect.
2. Synthetic oils 'eats' away this 'sludge' leaving the cylinders prone to scaring during the switch over.
During this time the synthetic oils creates its own protection.
3. There is not a problem then going back to conventional oil except for the above, the same things will apply. The two oils are not compatible and during the swap over period you DO NOT want to press your engine. You have a much higher chance of damaging your engine.

After a few hundred miles I don’t see any problem…

I hope that helps...

Shaun

976, its been 3 thousand miles since I put that mobil 1 in there, I just added a quart of mobil 1 because vtec was not engaging and it sovle the probelm, I am about to do a oil change, and I burned regular oil in my y7, and the oil is less expensive than the synthetic, thats why I was wondering if it would be ok to change back, so when I change back dont drive hard on the motor correct?

976

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shaun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">976, its been 3 thousand miles since I put that mobil 1 in there, I just added a quart of mobil 1 because vtec was not engaging and it sovle the probelm, I am about to do a oil change, and I burned regular oil in my y7, and the oil is less expensive than the synthetic, thats why I was wondering if it would be ok to change back, so when I change back dont drive hard on the motor correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, don't drive hard for at least a few hundred miles. After that it's not a problem at all... I like Kendall, and Castrol GTX conventional oil...

Two_K Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 976 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uh, no... Not a single intelligent reply yet... No factional insight, just opinion...

Why it's unsafe to switch between synthetic and conventional...

1. Conventional oil builds up a 'sludge' on the cylinder walls which helps protect.
2. Synthetic oils 'eats' away this 'sludge' leaving the cylinders prone to scaring during the switch over.
During this time the synthetic oils creates its own protection.
3. There is not a problem then going back to conventional oil except for the above, the same things will apply. The two oils are not compatible and during the swap over period you DO NOT want to press your engine. You have a much higher chance of damaging your engine.

After a few hundred miles I don’t see any problem…

I hope that helps...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

umm.....thats bullshit. show me proof that sludge protects cylinder walls There is no way sludge can form in the walls. The way you will get sludge is if you do not change you oil frequently. If you do get sludge, it will be in your valvetrain, or in the bottom of the oil pan. You will be fine using conventional oil, just change it at a reasonable interval.

976

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Two_K Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

umm.....thats bullshit. show me proof that sludge protects cylinder walls There is no way sludge can form in the walls. The way you will get sludge is if you do not change you oil frequently. If you do get sludge, it will be in your valvetrain, or in the bottom of the oil pan. You will be fine using conventional oil, just change it at a reasonable interval.</TD></TR></TABLE>

"Lubricate and Prevent Wear

...Oil will prevent the metal-to-metal contact that will result in wear to the moving parts.

Full-film lubrication occurs when the moving surfaces are continuously separated by a film of oil. The viscosity of the oil must remain high enough to prevent metal-to-metal contact. Wear will only occur if the surface is scratched by particles thicker then the oil film. Crankshaft bearings, connecting rods, camshaft, and piston pins normally operate with full-film lubrication.

In some conditions, it is impossible to maintain a continuous oil film between the moving parts. Intermittent metal-to-metal contact occurs because of high spots on sliding surfaces, during engine starting, and in new or rebuilt engines. Lubrication under these conditions is referred to as boundary lubrication. This lubrication is accomplished by the additive package in the oil. Refer to the Glossary of Terms for further information on boundary lubrication."

More or less I shouldn't have stated just clyinder walls, however most internal parts. Synthetic has been proven to degrade this film... I wish I could prove it, I don't have the information I did before.

I will post up the info and graphs if I find it...




Modified by 976 at 12:27 PM 5/24/2004

Shaun

thanks for the info guys, I just needed to get a straight forward answer too this, I hear some people say once you go synthetic you cant go back, I just wanted to clear things up, thanks 976 and others

ej98gsr, I sent you a IM

AutoXer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 976 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Oil will prevent the metal-to-metal contact that will result in wear to the moving parts.

Full-film lubrication occurs when the moving surfaces are continuously separated by a film of oil. The viscosity of the oil must remain high enough to prevent metal-to-metal contact.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as there's oil in there, you will have a film of lubrication, synthetic or dino oil. Actually, synthetics have better oil film lubrication properties than a standard oil, and have more ability to 'bond' with the parts and less likely to have the metal to metal contact that is stated in your reference.

The problem that used to happen when syns were first introduced had to do with the seals in the engine (like switching from R12 to R134a). That is no longer a concern. Period. Any newer vehicle can switch back and forth at will, since modern engines are designed to work with both.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 976 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

More or less I shouldn't have stated just clyinder walls, however most internal parts. Synthetic has been proven to degrade this film... I wish I could prove it, I don't have the information I did before.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't mean this as a flame in any way, but I think you have the wrong idea of 'film' of lubrication. It's not something that builds up, or can be degraded. When oil get's between the clearances of parts, the oil that goes between them is called the 'film'. Synthetics 'film' is more durable than standard, because it is harder to 'break down' synthetic oils (i.e. destroy the viscosity of the oil, as stated in your reference.) Dip a screwdriver into an open bottle of oil, or pull the dipstic out of the crank. The oil that is on there is the 'film' of lubrication that you're discussing.

976

Defiantly, I see your point.

kwaltman

The only time I say not to swtich from Conventional to Synthetic is if your car has lots of mileage on it. As stated before, Synthetic tends to break up alot of the sludge. Some of this very sludge may be keeping the various seals in your engine from leaking. I have heard from several people that had cars with over 100k on them, that they started to develop leaks after switching to Synthetic.

My best advice is to stick with what has been running in the car. I have a 97 LX with 228,000 miles on it with all original motor and internals. I have used nothing but Castrol GTX 10-30. The only things I have ever had to change on it was valve cover gasket, timing belt, a just put on a fresh head gasket about 20k ago. I also change the water pump at that time to be safe. Not too bad for a car that sits in LA Traffic for 100 miles a day.

-Kev

illicon2003

don't listen to these clowns. I personally have switched back and forth 3 times with no problems. I've read articles about switching back and forth and they say it's fine to do as long as you don't have an old *** high mileage car.

ej1 pilot

there is practically no difference between synthetic and regular...one of the elements is slightly modified, its not worht the extra money at all

976

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by illicon2003 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't listen to these clowns. I personally have switched back and forth 3 times with no problems. I've read articles about switching back and forth and they say it's fine to do as long as you don't have an old *** high mileage car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

“Don't listen to these clowns”? So in order not to listen to everyone who posted here that would mean DON'T switch to synthetic since EVERYONE here agreed that switching would not cause a problem unless otherwise noted.

We see what you meant, which basically gives me the authority to call you a clown and ask you to reread the thread...

drunknbass

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sl0wEH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is practically no difference between synthetic and regular...one of the elements is slightly modified, its not worht the extra money at all</TD></TR></TABLE>HAHAHAHA OK

SOHCwarrior

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sl0wEH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is practically no difference between synthetic and regular...one of the elements is slightly modified, its not worht the extra money at all</TD></TR></TABLE>

jackass, yeh the only different is one is pulled from the earth and the other is man-made

you can switch between oils but synthetic is better and switching may cause it to burn more or it may also cause it to burn less. Synthetic has a tendency to leak more for the same reasons it is a better oil, take the good with the bad.

I would stick with synthetic and change the oil less often which synthetic will handle alot better than conventional. What weight oil are you using? try a different weight like 540 1030 or mobil has lots of alternatives.

And sludge doesnt protect or build on the cylinder walls. sludge is the crap at the bottom of the pan. What protects the cylinder walls is the good oil, not the crap.

Nova_Dust

If money is problem, then use the engine oil you can afford.

n_23_s

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Two_K Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no problem in switching back to conventional oil. You will be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE> False! I have seen many engines switched from conventional to synthetic and back. All these engines do are smoke and burn oil. If you use synthetic don't switch back. And besides it may cost more but you can safely go longer with it. 3,000 suggested conventional-6,000 synthetic suggested

94CoupeEJ1

One thing you might consider is the 10% loss in fuel mileage you will see when you switch back to dino oil. That 10% might pay for your Mobil 1 especially at $2.00 plus per gallon.

eg_type_r93

if your burning oil it might as well as be cheap oil

SOHCwarrior

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CoupeEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One thing you might consider is the 10% loss in fuel mileage you will see when you switch back to dino oil. That 10% might pay for your Mobil 1 especially at $2.00 plus per gallon. </TD></TR></TABLE>

DAMN! $2.00

oh the good ole days, I think my last fill-up was $2.35 a gallon

RevenantAE

http://popularmechanics.com/au...phtml

A great popular mechanics article on oil.

Personally, I have never seen or heard of a problem switching from synthetic to natural oil. However, if you can afford it, I recommend staying with synthetic.