hndakd

Ok, well i have replaced the battery and the alternator and i still cant keep the damn thing running for more than a couple of hours. it is throwin an 02 sensor, vss, and ELD?? code. Im not to worried about the O2 or vss, but this eld is kinda makin me think thats what the problem is. any ideas as to what it could be???

car is 98 ex with 94 b18c1 swap.

92BlackSi

ELD - Electrical Load Detector?? You have one? This is a USDM motor?

92BlackSi

The PR4 ecu seems to have trouble with the ELD system.

hndakd

pr4 ecu? i have a p72 the motor is usdm

Andres-eh2

might be the main relay. read this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=896886

92BlackSi

Ooops yeah that is from a 90-91 Teg.

Did you pull the alternator fuse under the dash when the car was running? OR get a Helm's manual and try to trace it?? Lots of search hits for "eld" available.

hndakd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andres-eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might be the main relay. read this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=896886</TD></TR></TABLE>
car starts and runs almost fine with a freshly charged battery. but after an hour or so it just stops. Im assumin the burps that its makin are from the o2 sensor.

[QUOTE=92BlackSi]Did you pull the alternator fuse under the dash when the car was running? OR get a Helm's manual and try to trace it?? Lots of search hits for "eld" available.[QUOTE] why would i pull the alternator fuse? i checked all the fuses and they are fine.

Also when i searced for eld i only got a couple of lamo threads about it just being under the fuse box under the hood

damnraz

Hi, new member trying to help, I would say check how much voltage you are getting into your alternator, make sure you check your helms manual for specifications to how much voltage output you need the electrical current traveling to the alternator, check your plug that connects to the alternator with a circuit tester, there are about 3 wires, one should be running from the main computer (ECU), and the there's two others, one remains hot at all times, and there other one will be hot when the check engine light appears when turning the ignition key. If you find there is no power running to your alternator then you found your problem, check for cracks within' the harness to see if there's any type of corrosion. blah.. I would just say the main thing is, check your battery to see if it's putting out enough voltage, check your fuse, check your alternator plugs, and also check your alternator. That's the only thing I can think of to figure out your problem and you should be all set I hope - Raz

hndakd

bumpin it for day people

i did all the alternator stuff already. I will double check everything when i am able to get the car back to my house. like i said before battery is brand new. argh!!

hndakd

got the car back. all connections are good. i tested every thing with the voltmeter and everything was in spec with my helms. what should i look for with the eld?? i check the wires around it and they look like wires.

mjrage

if your start the car, then remove the negative then positive battery terminals what happens?

Filthy Focker!

Explain a bit more about what you mean by car just stops????

You see, when you are running on the battery alone, your car does not really stop, as battery voltage goes down, it will start to hiccups, idle roughly, lights will dim.

Please describe it a bit more.

fs

hndakd

thats what it does^^^^ my radio with start to turn on and off, and it hiccups and bucks like it wants to go but cant. then it will stop completely.

mjrage

Alternator, mine is doing that right now.

Take the battery cables off after you start the car, it should run if the alternator is good, according to people on this board.

My check was charge the battery overnight, go drive around for a bit, then put it back on the charger. My charger puts out 12V, and shows you how much its gotta do, 0 being none and a good charge, I drove my car 40 miles and it went from 12V to 8V with no radio on, no a/c, barely using the brakes, etc...which means the battery isnt charging when the car is running. I truly thought the charging light would stay on but it doesnt.

Filthy Focker!

I have seen this before. You keep saying that your alternator is charging and everything is in spec...

Now that could be, but you got a charging problem.

Get yourself a voltmeter.

Start your car with a fully charged battery (battery at 12.6 V)
bring the engine to 2000 rpms. Put the voltmeter on the battery terminals. You should get at least 14.5 V but less that 15 V
if this spans out, then you are charging, if not then that is where your problem is.

Now you state that you are getting a code 20 ELD... That usually indicates a bad ground. Check all your grounds. Also, you may try grounding the alternator to a different spot on the frame, same as the battery.

Is is also possible that you got a bad new alternator and/or battery.

fs

hndakd

ok im going to try the battery thing that i missed earlier. it should stay running if i disconnect it.&gt;? i will check all of the grounds as well, if anything just replace them all with some stereo wire i have laying around. are these the only ones i should do:
vtec solenoid
intake manifold
TB
alternator
upgrade oem block ground and tranny ground
upgrade battery ground
should i daisy chain them together or just have them all run to the common? oh by the way i tested the alternator before i put it in at the good old autozone because i have had bad ones before and it was cool. along with the battery. so somewhere is causing the battery to get sucked dry. thnx for everyones help i will let you know what is up.