sleepingEg8

(Topic tiltle courtesy of Dictionary.com)

As stated I recently did a GSR disc conversion on my 4 door *****. I used the booster from a 95 gsr and master from a 93 ls. After bleeding i had a problem with the car having a seemingly hard pedal but if you held the pedal down it would creep to the floor. I was thinking that the master was bad (used). I bought a new master and installed it today and am now having an extremely hard time bleeding it correctly. Now when i bleed the RF and the LR brakes get hard with pumping, and the LF and RR are soft. After bleeding in two different sequences (Helms - RR,LF,LR,RF) and my trusted procedure of RR,LR,RF,LF. Both sequences showed the same result. Im Growing tired of this.... I want to hit the canyons with my new brakes. Thanks guys!!!!!

oneslodx

not completely sure but it could be the prop valve possibly, upgrading to a 40 40 if u havent already might help, i put rear discs on a 89 hatch and the 40 40 made a good difference in braking. other than that im not sure unless your losing pressure somewhere in your system

TallAssFilipino

Usually the problem you'd get if you didn't switch to the 40/40 prop' valve would be that the brakes would lock up much easily and/or sometimes even on its own. Make sure you match everything up as well. For example ABS-equipped to ABS-equipped and non-ABS to non-ABS. Booster, MC and prop' valve.

Also, the proper order to bleed the brakes is RR, LF, LR, RF.


Modified by TallAssFilipino at 2:50 PM 10/15/2004

sleepingEg8

sorry i didnt add that lil tidbit of info.. yes i did install the 4040 prop. valve. I just got the pedal to feel halfway decent.. went for a drive and the brakes locked up to the point that i couldnt drive. BAH!!!!i think because i used an ls MC and a gsr booster that the pushrods are the wrong length and i need to adjust them
thanks for the quick replies

EE_Chris

Did you bench bleed the MC before installing it?

Marauder

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TallAssFilipino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> brakes would lock up much easily and/or sometimes even on its own. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How does that happen, casper the ghost come and step on the brakes for you? LMAO

I think what he's refering to is developing a rear brake bias. I had this on my civic after doing a big brake kit up front and a rear conversion which was also a big rotor kit on the rear. The stock prop valve was left in and it had terrible rear bias. I swapped in a civic si prop valve and made things much better.

On your bleeding problem, sounds strange.

n1div

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you bench bleed the MC before installing it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

TallAssFilipino

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marauder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How does that happen, casper the ghost come and step on the brakes for you? LMAO

I think what he's refering to is developing a rear brake bias. I had this on my civic after doing a big brake kit up front and a rear conversion which was also a big rotor kit on the rear. The stock prop valve was left in and it had terrible rear bias. I swapped in a civic si prop valve and made things much better.

On your bleeding problem, sounds strange. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess you haven't had the experience yet where-as I have. And just go through the many threads on here where the same thing has happened to many ppl who added rear disks w/o changing to the proper prop' valve for their 5th gen's. The prop' valve regulates the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes during heavy braking to prevent the rear disks to lock up. For normal braking it allows full pressure. When you do the rear disk conversion, leaving the 30/40 prop' valve, the prop' valve doesn't work properly still allowing full hydraulic pressure which causes the brakes to lock up easily and sometimes even on its own. Also, if you haven't read, he used a 40/40 prop' valve. So, no. That can't be the problem.

If you changed your prop' vavle in your EK to an Si one, then that was just a waste. The prop' valves on all EK's are the same as the Si prop' valves. And if you still think the prop'-swap solved everything, then I think Casper the ghost was playing tricks on you. They're the same, which is why you don't hear about the rear brakes locking easily or even on its own for the 6th gen's.

The most likely thing it could be is the power brake booster pushrod-to-master cylinder piston. The pushrod may not be the proper length with the combination he went with.


Modified by TallAssFilipino at 3:12 PM 10/15/2004

rLAspecS14

This is a stupid question, but is a 40/40 prop valve a bleeder valve?