petroi77

just like some advise as to what kinda cam's and all the rest I should use with my current set up also what they mean by "vtec killers" and if anyone would advise me on upgrading to coil's or not

this is my current setup at 410whp

civic 1995 4 door
b16a swap.
2 1/2 inch exhaust system.
garrett T3 with external westgate
hondata map sensor
AEM fuel rail and regilator
725cc id injectors.
Skunk2 66mm Alpha Throttle Body.
BLOX POWER INTAKE MANIFOLD up to 72mm.
Golden Eagle Cam Gear Gears.
Wiseco Forged Pistons Eagle Rods 10.75:1 81mm.
Darton sleave with fling
b18c type R camshafts and lifters.
ARP main and head studs.
AEM UEGO Wideband O2 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge and the Bosch 4.2LSU sensor.
cometic std size and bore head gasket.
ACL Race BEARINGS Kit.
Vtec Gates Racing Belt Timing Kit.
340 flow fuel pump.
ptp turbo blanket
Mishimoto radiator and aluminum fan and shroud kit
hondata s300 v2
dds 2.9 racing axles

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

whats wrong with your current cam setup?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Wow, your parts list is all over the place. Since you're just asking about the cams, though, I guess we can stick to that.

You shouldn't need COP, unless you're having spark blowout issues. If you're having blowout issues, your tuner should know this, and should have already told you that you needed COP. Since you're asking the question, it's evident that that conversation never happened, so no, you don't need them.

VTEC killer cams are exactly what they sound like - they remove VTEC from the equation. You're permanently locked into the high lobe. If you had taken a minute to do just a little bit of research, you'd know that. Straight from TODA's (the original "Killer Cam") website:

Basically, you're turning your VTEC head into...an LS head. Good job, glad you wasted the money on it.

So, now you know what "VTEC Killers" are, and your COP question has been answered. Anything else?

petroi77

nothing is wrong, its just I would like to upgrade my head to match my block and give it a bit extra safety at the same time and hoping to get more power at the same boost

petroi77

do you see something wrong with my setup? I wouldn't mind the advise thanks

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

A 2.5" exhaust is overly restrictive for your power goals - you'll see a better powerband if you go 3", or go for a custom solution (hood or bumper exit). You weren't specific with which T3 you have, but given your current power, I'm going to guess a 57 or 60 trim. If not...you'd get better power delivery with one of those. Skunk2 = Junk2. Complete waste of money. Same goes for Blox. Absolute ****. "Darton Sleeve with fling"? With...what's a fling? Unless your sleeves are having a sordid affair with a 402 or something Mishimoto radiators and fans are pretty shitty, but if you aren't having overheating problems, I wouldn't worry too much about it that.

Upgrading cams isn't quite like upgrading your block internals. With block internals, they can only handle X until they break. Different parts will have different breaking points. With cams, a competent tuner can get Type R cams into the 700-800 WHP range, if not higher. Cams aren't about being able to make more power, they're about making better power. With a good pair of sticks, You might still only make 410 WHP, but you'll have better power delivery, a better torque curve, and thus, a faster car. How big of a cam you get depends entirely on how much driveability you're willing to sacrifice. Crower 403 all motor cams are a good compromise between driveability and power delivery. Don't ask me why all motor cams are prefered to their turbo cams, they just are.

petroi77

what are the better alternatives for that price range?

sorry spelling mistake I guess "Darton Dry Sleeves Honda Civic Si B16A1 B16A2"

joey1320

You have some things that work and some that are just lower quality.


Before we continue, what are your ultimate goals for this powerplant and vehicle?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

For the price range of ****? Modified OEM. Junk2 is a shitty company, not worth supporting. They could build a motor that cured HIV, and I'd still say the same thing. If you want to know why, just look into their history. Searching "Junk2" will tell you all you need to know about their shitty business practices.

Blox is just Taiwanese knockoff trash. **** Blox.

Gotcha, so you're using stock replacement sleeves. You're pretty much at the limit of them, then. A good valvetrain upgrade will get you better power delivery, like I said, but realize that you'll also need to upgrade your springs, which is an...entertaining procedure. You'll also need a re-tune, or you'll probably be slower than you would have been without the cam upgrade.

White_EG1

When did mishimoto start making **** radiators?

So when you put vtec killer cams on a vtec your head is rendered useless? Please elaborate.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I said they're "pretty" shitty. They aren't the worst of the worst, but they aren't Fluidyne. They aren't good enough to actually call good.

VTEC killer cams dis-no, ya know what, I've already explained it once on this very page. I'm not going to explain it a second time. If you don't understand how VTEC works, you aren't going to understand how VTEC Killer cams work.

White_EG1

I know exactly how vtec works, I know how the killa cams work too. I'm just wondering why your not saying they're beneficial. Maybe more so on N/A, but nonetheless a good thing to have.... And better than junk2.

petroi77

no real goal really it all started with a b16a and when from there. every time I think "that's it" I find something new i wanna do

not stock replacement ones, but a step up from the stock replacement darton's and a step down from the dry sleeves but I also have a supertech block guard so that helps

I have the blox front and rear campers and found that they do the job just fine but I did have some problems with the skunk2 throttle body so if anyone knows a good alternative would be great.