Skryblz

I'm having a major issue with my civic. Yesterday, I was driving around and after getting food, it would not turn over. Replaced the battery just days ago, so it cranked 30+ times but would not start. After mashing the gas pedal while cranking it choked to life, bogged then revved up, no smoke, drove home fine. Started about 10 more times perfectly fine the rest of that day and today, 2 cranks at most and a smooth idle at 800rpm. Today, I ran some errands after work (started 6 times fine already), was in traffic stopped when it started miss firing pretty bad, felt the car shake and it almost died. I hell-toed the accelerator to keep it alive one more block to the bank. After depositing my check it would not start again. However, this time it was damn near 100+ cranks before it finally barely turned over and continually burned coolant, white smoke out the back. I got the car home and now its dead in the water.

Before I go on, I should explain I know a bit about cars, already did the headgasket and other parts on this car, have the manual, etc. and am completely stumped. I'll list what has been replaced and checked and I'm really hoping someone has ANY idea on what to do.

In the past 4000 miles, I replaced
-Headgasket w/head bolts, water pump, accessory belts, timing belt, thermostat, radiator, radiator cap, upper+lower radiator hose, bypass hose (therm to block) and block to heater core hose, battery
Also replaced in past 10k miles
-Distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, pcv valve, all maintenance in manual to 140k miles

Car is at 138k now. It is leaking coolant out the downpipe gasket towards the rest of the exhaust. Leaking as in liquid drops almost every second seeping through while the pipe burns white smoke. This was the last time it started, now I cannot get it to turn over. I did a compression check and it was 160-160-160-176 which was odd, but not outside of spec. Spark plugs were replaced about 100 miles ago and were still white on the ceramic, with some light browning on the metal part to the electrode.

The last parts I could think are bad are the distributor, or the block is cracked. However, I was literally DRIVING it 30 seconds before it would not start, no loss of power and idling fine, and have been driving it EVERY DAY since for the past few months since the headgasket was replaced. PLEASE give me an idea of what could be bad. I know this is my first post, but I know cars and the search function pretty well and I am desperate for options!!

Skryblz

Anybody have an idea? I was going to check my fuel pump to make sure it is operating fine... just went over all my underhood fuses and they were ok! If my block was bad it wouldn't necessarily STOP my car from starting, would just make it run like poop once turned over.

Its a 95 LX with the D15B7 in it, 4 speed Auto. If you need any more info just ask me!

redm3turbo

after sitting a while, did it start up for you?
or it just wont start at all?

when you did the headgasket, did you get the head machined? or check it with a straight edge?

Skryblz

Yea, won't start up at all, just keeps cranking. When the head gasket was done I had a a machine shop check the head, valves, rockers, etc., clean it, replace valve stem seals and they shaved like .04 off. I let it sit over night, tried to start this morning and same thing, just continuous cranking with not even a slight bit of the motor coming to life.

I'm thinking its my fuel system, either the relay, pump, or fpr has failed in that order. How likely is it that my fuel pump or the relay would immediately die on me? Thought I would hear it whining or straining or SOMETHING before it gave out...

91integraLSVTEC

start with the basics. does your car have a CEL? if so check that out. check for fuel/ spark. check vaccum leaks check engine timing. youll find the problem

Skryblz

So I got home and did a number of checks on it. The main relay or fuel pump relay is good, all the solder connections were solid but I added a dab to each anyway. It clicked three times, one at ON, once after the CEL turned off, and once when I tried to turn the car on and from what I've read that means it is fine.

I ended up taking the ignition control module out of the distributor and had autozone check it. Well, it failed 7 of 8 tests and I dropped another bill on this car. Did not fix my issue though, I do not have spark anymore. Took out the 1st spark plug and had it attached to the wires, tried cranking it but no spark, on any cylinders.

Just bought a new coil pack too -.-' was not looking to spend this much fixing this POS haha. Let you guys know if that solved it.

EDIT
Well the coil pack has made it start, but very barely. A few times it died immediately after letting off the key or after 5 minutes of it just idling by itself. I am seeing white smoke out the back, but I did use brake cleaner to clean my IACV, and I might have used too much so its burning a lot off. Would all that excess brake cleaner explain why its choking on idle and feels like a slight misfire?

Skryblz

And that was short lived. After it just died on its own idling and misfiring in my driveway it wont start anymore, back to cranking repeatedly.

No check engine lights or leaking fluids now. Had white smoke out the exhaust but that was brake cleaner and its burned off now.

Coilpack and Ignition control module were replaced today, and the main relay fuse is fine also. I have fuel as well, the spark plugs are soaked with gas so that rules out pump and fpr. Now, I dont know what the problem could be. Bad dizzy or cap and rotor? The cap and rotor looked fine enough, wasn't cracked, wobbling, scored, etc. but I dont have a clue now.

PLEASE someone with an idea post I'll try anything at this moment. I can only think the distributor itself is bad, my ECU is shot, or the cap/rotor/wires I replaced 20k miles ago are destroyed. I checked for vacuum leaks and could not see or feel any. Could my timing be horribly off out of nowhere causing a no-start?

djakob

Unplug your IACV and see if it starts. I know it sounds weird but try it. Let me know the results.

Skryblz

Alright, try this again today... From reading a bit more I think my whole distributor is bad. Even though the ICM and coil were replaced, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor all look good, I was getting a horrible screeching noise from my motor when I touched the throttle, then it died. Like, the smallest blip of throttle would screech/squeal and die immediately, which I've seen is a dizzy taking a dump. Great -.-' $200 on internal parts and now I gotta buy a whole new unit.

I'll unplug the IACV and try to start it up, let you know what happens. Gonna check my timing today too make sure it didn't jump teeth since it died, but I'm doubting the timing is off.

Skryblz

Unplugging the IACV did nothing :-/ Still just cranked away with no signs of turning over, not even the slightest catch. Just cleaned all my grounds off too for ***** and giggles, gonna call honda dealerships and see how much a new OEM is. I figure this is the original one on the car 139k miles, is it worth cleaning out or do they literally just take a dump and are worthless sometimes?

Well every honda dealership in 50 miles of me is out of the distributor and cannot order them anymore. Who makes the best reman/new ones? I see a few Dorman units online, and a Beck-Arnley one, both of those groups make good parts. I dunno if I trust Cardone from Autozone or Richporter Tech from O'Reilly's unless someone can vouch for their quality.

Skryblz

I found a Richporter tech one with a lifetime warranty so I ordered that, hopefully it clears up the issue. Saw a few other people order the same on this board with no problems. Upon further inspection, my distributor was falling apart. The nub that connects to the camshaft had about 1/2" of deflection in the bearing. Meaning, I could push it left to right/up and down and see an opening appear between the center flat circle and the outer ring part with the two retaining tabs. Yea, probably not suppose to be like that

I should see the dizzy in a day or two, I'll let ya know if it fixed the issue...

Skryblz

Completely fixed it! Started up after 1 crank w00t w00t! I think I have a small vacuum leak as the idle started surging from 900-1300 after I drove for a while and parked it. While at stops though it is steady at 900 and accelerates nice and smooooooth!

If someone finds this thread with the same issues, I bought a Richporter tech distributor with a lifetime warranty and it solved my no start issue, and was cheaper than buying new components!