joshy2121

Hi guys, I have a stock 1993 Civic Si with the stock D16z6
I have a problem that will randomly occur, maybe once a month or so, and will usually put me out of a car for sometimes a minute, sometimes a few hours, or sometimes a day or so.
The car runs very smoothly, and doesn't seem to have any trouble. Then usually the engine will just cut out and die. The car doesn't respond to bump starting or anything. The engine will crank over, I can hear the fuel pump come on and put pressure into the rail. Just won't start. Sometimes if I wait a few minutes it will fire right up, sometimes it's out for a whole day.
That really leads me to believe either a bad coil or a bad Ignition control module. I am leaning toward the module because the car runs smoothly most of the time. The only other "unsmoothness" about the car is a hunting idle when its not fully warm, I don't think this issue is related but I am unsure.
I don't really have any way to test the parts electrically unfortunately or I would just do that.
Any insight would be helpful, thanks in advance!

Former User

Resistance test the coil. See diagram in FAQs sticky (section 5g).

Have an auto parts store test the igniter unit.

joshy2121

I will check the sticky for the coil. As for the igniter unit will I have to remove the unit for them to test it or do they just do it right there?
Thanks for the answer

Former User

Remove both the coil and igniter unit for testing.

motegicivic

With the coil, you can't just unplug it to test it?

How is the ICM held in screws?

spectacle

Main relay is known to fail sporadically on cars of that age. Swap it out with a known good and see if the problem continues.

joshy2121

I was looking at the main relay diagrams and information, and when it goes would the fuel pump stop pumping also? Because when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump turn on. Correct me if I'm wrong though. As far as testing the coil, I haven't had a chance yet, waiting for friend to come over with his electrical tester doodads
And I know I wouldn't have too much trouble dissembling the rotor/ignition coil/ignitor

joshy2121

Was this the test you were refering to RonJ@ht http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...cture_3395.jpg
?
Also, I read your FAQ here https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diy-how-test-spark-troubleshoot-spark-problems-2919450/
and sort of derived that if I test each of the wires with a spark plug and they are possibly weak, that it is the coil. But unless ALL of them fail, it is a coil not the ignition module.
Would that be a correct conclusion?

NotAJDMFanBoy

The coil needs to be tested at 70* F and the resistance should be something like 8 ohms. It can test out to be good when it's actually bad though. Just get a whole different distributor or guts from another distributor and swap them out. The ICM you can get tested at Advance Auto Parts.

Coils and ICMs can be taken from any other distributor as long as it physically fits. I have an Integra LS or Civic LX coil in my GSR distributor along with a 1996 Civic EX ICM. They work fine.

Former User

Yep

Do the coil test at room temp and be sure to subtract the internal resistance of the meter (reading when meter probes touched together) from your primary winding reading.

joshy2121

Thanks guys.
So I went out to check for spark since my gf was home to crank it over.
I took the wires out, threw a spare spark plug in and grounded it good, and none of the wires had spark. So I'll be digging out the Module here in the next half hour, and my local autozone can test it (as suggested thanks!) and hopefully that's the problem. If it's not I dont have the tools or the temperature (haha) to test the coil, so I'll just buy a new one if my Module is tested good.
Thanks everyone I'll post back here soon to let you know if it gets fixed.

Former User

It's pretty easy to resistance test the coil. It also might be worth a try to ask the AZ guy/gal whether they could test the coil for you.

joshy2121

Unfortunately AZ will not do the coil (at least not the one by my house)
FORTUNATELY the module was defective! I pulled it, they tested it and it was defective, so I spent the past 30min getting frostbite and replacing it. But it fired right up
Just a side note; it still has the weird idle, so that was unrelated to the module.
Thanks for all your help, those DIY's were super helpful!