HTY67

My 96 Civic EX (D16Y8) is at 200K miles and I'm putting together a list of what preventive service I might do. What are your suggestions?

A) Valve Cover Gasket
B) Spark Plug Tube Gaskets
C) Valve Cover Bolt Gaskets (5)
D) Valve Clearance
E) Tune-up (plugs/wires/cap/rotor)
G) Camshaft Oil Seals
G) Timing Belt
H) Timing Belt Tensioner
I) Water Pump
J) Front Main Seal
K) Oil Pump
L) Rear Main Seal
M) Clutch Kit
N) Oil Pan Gasket
O) Fuel Filter


What else?

elf469

If you're going to pull it out and do the work might as well take a step futher: http://fjdistributors.com/product_in...roducts_id=162

HTY67

Thanks! But a little overkill. I'm already overkilling it. I just did some of this stuff 30k miles ago but I got multiple oil leaks to fix.

The oil leaks, by the way, I blame on synthetic oil because I never had a drop of oil on the garage floor in 14 yrs with the car but I put in Castrol Edge and 3k miles later both the front main and rear main start to leak at the same exact time.

stevieteg

Unless you know the clutch is bad, I would skip the clutch kit. If it grabs good and you drive it nicely it could easily go another 200k.

Check the bushings and see if they're bad. I wouldn't replace them unless there is noticeable wear.

I'd definitely do timing belt, water pump, and any known leaking gaskets. Anything else certainly won't hurt but it's really at your discretion. A full tune up never hurts.

HTY67

Well the clutch doesn't slip but when cold it causes a lot of vibration when letting it out in 1st. Makes the front end buck like someone learning to drive a stick. Not sure what the deal is but I thought replacing the clutch might stop this.

Arthas

Yes its the synthetic oil. Why do you use synthetic when your car was made for conventional?

HTY67

Because it was free after rebate, 5qts and a PureOne filter.

Because I had used Mobil1 for 6 oil changes periodically during the first 150k miles with no problems.

And because I was stupid enough to believe Castrol's website when they claimed it was compatible with all vehicles.

Now I have oil leaks. Perhaps since it was only in there for 3months the main seals might return to their original size and stop the leaks but we'll see.

stevieteg

Your clutch is chattering. Resurfacing the flywheel should solve that problem.

HTY67

I was hoping not to remove the flywheel. The book shows a special tool to lock the flywheel in place while removing/installing. Is there a way to do it without the special tool?

I would imagine I could remove with an impact wrench without it rotating on me but torquing it back on to the right spec would be the problem.

Arthas

Well I guess being free didnt turn out to be so cheap in the end right?

My car had synthetic when I bought it and I switched over to conventional as soon as I did the first change. No point in putting $30 oil when the car doesnt require it nor was it made for it.
If it needs a "special" tool then you probably cant do it without the special tool. How old is your clutch?

HTY67

No free wasn't such a good deal. It's a very light leak, doesn't even reach the garage floor but there is oil on both sides and the bottom of the pan. I'm still holding out hope that it'll stop now that the synthetic is gone and if not I'll try a stop leak to get a few more miles out of the current timing belt.

Original clutch. Right at 200K.

So anyone have a tip for removing the flywheel without the tool? The tool costs $90, almost as much as a brand new OEM flywheel ($117).

Arthas

Dude just get a new clutch kit and resurface your OEM flywheel, why are you making **** so complicated. Its a 200K, dont you think its bound to give out soon? My OEM clutch lasted 150k and it was all highway miles with no racing involved.

elf469

cant you see if your local auto parts store has that tool for you to rent?

HTY67

What the hell are you talking about? I'm not denying that I should "get a new clutch kit" (see original post) and I've agreed with the suggestion that I should replace or resurface the flywheel.

The current topic of the thread is removing the flywheel without using the special tool. It's not a rental item that I know of and I checked at all the stores around.

HTY67

Adding to my own shopping list:
Q) Transmission seals
R) Ball joint boots (will usually tear when using ball joint separator)
S) Flywheel (New or resurface old)

What am I forgetting?

Dailydriver92

For the "special" tool. Go to Walmart or Canadian Tire or some other hardware store if those are not around you and buy that special tool. Return it after your done using it lmao. (If they do have it, unless it is a special item only sold through Honda)

If you would like to know what should be changed. Go to the local bookstore and check a Honda Service Manual and write down everything that is associated with 200K. Also check to see if you might have missed some other few important things.

HTY67

It's a Honda special tool. And besides I wouldn't do that buy and return thing anyhow.

I found out you can have a friend hold the crankshaft steady on the other end (pulley side).

And I have the service manual, the point is there isn't a set 200k mile service, it doesn't go up that hight and wouldn't include oil seals and such anyhow. I'm looking for other's experience in what might be accessible and easy to do while I already have so much disassembled to do the clutch and timing belt.

Thanks for the suggestions though (not really).

delsolo95

^^^^^ no no no!! dont need that special tool just get a big crowbar and have a friend jam it between the teeths of the flywheel and the motor it self, the flywheel will not move. then you can loosen the flywheel bolts with ease.. ive done it numerous times and its so freakin easy!! might as well change the itake manifold gasket and clean it out the i.m. before assemble. i took off the i.m. from my sis d16y8 and damn there was gunk!! her motor is around 210,000mi