Wheel Bearing??
I was wondering...My drivers side wheel bearing needs to be replaced because the last time I had rotors put on i guess they broke it..and so I was wondering Is it possible that the broken wheel bearing can cause axle problems..reason im asking is because I keep having to replace the drivers side axle because after a couple of weeks with a new one on..it starts popping constantly while im driving...so I put a new one on and it quits for a while and comes back slowly..so could that be the reason my axles keep going bad? thanks for any input!
FYI: its a 94 Honda Accord EX 2dr, Automatic with ABS
FYI: its a 94 Honda Accord EX 2dr, Automatic with ABS
If the wheel bearing is broken is such a way to over-extend the axle... like pull the tripod a bit too far out from the inner-driver. ???
Possibly (based on your screen name) it's extended even more due to lowering?
Either of these things assumes that it's the inner joint that goes bad. If it's the outer CV joint, then maybe the lowering combined with the bad WB allows the outer joint to 'steer' thru a larger range of motion than it's designed for.
How about when you replace the next bad axle, you take off the rubber boots & inspect it. Figure out exactly what's going on with the CV joints; the exact location & nature of the damage.
You may also want to check to see if the popping noise is really something else, like a ball joint...
Possibly (based on your screen name) it's extended even more due to lowering?
Either of these things assumes that it's the inner joint that goes bad. If it's the outer CV joint, then maybe the lowering combined with the bad WB allows the outer joint to 'steer' thru a larger range of motion than it's designed for.
How about when you replace the next bad axle, you take off the rubber boots & inspect it. Figure out exactly what's going on with the CV joints; the exact location & nature of the damage.
You may also want to check to see if the popping noise is really something else, like a ball joint...
It couldnt be a ball joint because when I replace the axle it quits for a week or 2 then comes back slowly but surely...so Tomorrow..Im going to take the axle off and inspect it a little see what kinda damage is going on with the axle but im thinking it has to do with the wheel bearing and of course I know lowering never helps anything it just makes things worse...hopefully next week im going to get the wheel bearing replaced and see if that fixes it...thanks
OK, I just wanted you to think thru the process of ruling out the other stuff.
Check the inner driver (the tulip-shaped thing that sticks into the tranny). Look at the grooves where the tripod bearings ride. Look for damage inside those grooves, especially if it looks like the axle gets over-extended.
Take the rubber boot off of the outboard joint, and look for evidence of the axle shaft hitting that big bell-shaped forging that's on the outboard axle stub. That would indicate the lowered suspension is forcing the axle to 'steer' at a sharper angle than it should.
The wheel bearing would contribute to either of these things if its loose. The bearing would allow the wheel and outboard axle stub to flex a little bit of additional angle beyond where it should. That's in addition to the lowering causing it to flex 'a little bit' beyond where it should.
Check the inner driver (the tulip-shaped thing that sticks into the tranny). Look at the grooves where the tripod bearings ride. Look for damage inside those grooves, especially if it looks like the axle gets over-extended.
Take the rubber boot off of the outboard joint, and look for evidence of the axle shaft hitting that big bell-shaped forging that's on the outboard axle stub. That would indicate the lowered suspension is forcing the axle to 'steer' at a sharper angle than it should.
The wheel bearing would contribute to either of these things if its loose. The bearing would allow the wheel and outboard axle stub to flex a little bit of additional angle beyond where it should. That's in addition to the lowering causing it to flex 'a little bit' beyond where it should.
Im sure lowering isnt helping the situation but it shouldnt hurt the axles..I mean if lowering your car ment you had to replace the axles every 2 weeks then no one would do it...they might not last as long as a car thats not lowered but u shouldnt have to replace them every few weeks..I agree with you that im sure its causing it to bend or flex a little..and on top of that i agree that the wheel bearing is making it do the same so its flexing a lot more since the wheel bearing is bad..im gonna replace the wheel bearing and that should fix it im guessing..thanks
Well, I was just trying to think of reasons, since nobody else was answering your question.
I know that the entire range of motion of the suspension has to be considered. That includes bushing deflection, mounting hole clearance, tolerance stackups, along with the obvious suspension travel and steering. All that put together results in a range of angles that the axle moves thru. Then Honda would choose an axle that's capable of 'slightly' more motion beyond what's expected. I have no clue how much margin they allowed. Exceed the axle's limits, and metal hits metal resulting in a lifespan that suddenly gets VERY short.
I know that the entire range of motion of the suspension has to be considered. That includes bushing deflection, mounting hole clearance, tolerance stackups, along with the obvious suspension travel and steering. All that put together results in a range of angles that the axle moves thru. Then Honda would choose an axle that's capable of 'slightly' more motion beyond what's expected. I have no clue how much margin they allowed. Exceed the axle's limits, and metal hits metal resulting in a lifespan that suddenly gets VERY short.
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yea I know what u mean...I have horrible camber and I know that has a lot to do with it also..plus all my ball joints are busted..I dont really have the money to get a really good axle right now thats why ive been getting refurbished ones from advance auto which is stupid but was all I could afford at the time..so thats probably another reason it keeps messing up on me..so I guess first thing im gonna do is replace that wheel bearing and then save up and get me some good *** axles that can endure the beating a lowered car gives to it! lol...thanks for responding..I know that was kind of an odd question not many ppl if any ask..thanks for your input! any idea on where to get some good ball joints for a resonable price..excluding ebay lol..cuz im not goin to honda..to damn expensive!
hondaautomotiveparts.com
manhonda.com
They seem to be dealers that sell mail-order at a discount. Genuine parts...
If it turns out that you DO have a problem with the angles that the axle moves, then a really good expensive axle is still gonna be damaged the same way. I'd want to understand why they crap out so quickly, before I start buying nice pricey ones.
Busted ball joints also contribute to the axle flexing too far. The looseness of the ball joint produces a little bit of extra motion on top of what you already have.
manhonda.com
They seem to be dealers that sell mail-order at a discount. Genuine parts...
If it turns out that you DO have a problem with the angles that the axle moves, then a really good expensive axle is still gonna be damaged the same way. I'd want to understand why they crap out so quickly, before I start buying nice pricey ones.
Busted ball joints also contribute to the axle flexing too far. The looseness of the ball joint produces a little bit of extra motion on top of what you already have.
well it never did before...ok well let me ask you this..im not even quite sure if it is the wheel bearing..I had new tires put on and they told me it was because my drivers side rotor moves..like you can put your hand on it and move it front to back a little bit...so they told me it was a bad wheel bearing cuz its been like that ever since i let this dumbass put my new rotors and brake pads on...im getting ready to do all new rotors and brakes pads all the way around and i was gonna go ahead and replace the wheel bearing and see if that fixes the problem..take my axle back to advance and get a new one...see if that fixes the problem and if it does im gonna get me some good axles
The wheel bearing is what's holding the hub in place and allowing it to spin smoothly without wobbling. Wheel bearings can go bad 2 different ways; they can start grinding & become difficult to spin, or they can get loose & wobbly. Think of the front wheel of a bicycle: the bearing lets it spin smoothly without wobbling.
After you have the brake caliper out of the way...
After you have the axle out of the way...
Now you can feel the action of the bearing alone without all that extra stuff.
Does the hub turn smoothly? If it grinds while turning, wheel bearing is bad.
Does the hub wobble? Any looseness is a bad wheel bearing.
When the mechanic says your rotor moves, to me that sounds like the wheel bearing is loose & wobbly. Of course, I'm not looking at it firsthand...
After you have the brake caliper out of the way...
After you have the axle out of the way...
Now you can feel the action of the bearing alone without all that extra stuff.
Does the hub turn smoothly? If it grinds while turning, wheel bearing is bad.
Does the hub wobble? Any looseness is a bad wheel bearing.
When the mechanic says your rotor moves, to me that sounds like the wheel bearing is loose & wobbly. Of course, I'm not looking at it firsthand...
its very loose and wobbly..you can move the whole hub..its almost like the rotor isnt pressed on all the way or something..like you can move it back and forth with ur hand
While you're wobbling it, use your other hand to feel exactly where the wobbling is located. If the rotor isn't bolted onto the hub, that's different. The entire steering knuckle could be wobbling around from loose ball joints.
The wheel bearing would be bad if the wobbling is between the knuckle & the hub. That sounds like what it is. And it sounds like it's VERY loose. You should be happy the wheel didn't fall off as you're driving.
The wheel bearing would be bad if the wobbling is between the knuckle & the hub. That sounds like what it is. And it sounds like it's VERY loose. You should be happy the wheel didn't fall off as you're driving.
yea its just the rotor that moves when i put my hand on it...ive had a couple of mechanics tell me is a bad wheel bearing and I need to get it replaced asap..which im gonna try to do this weekend maybe..hopefully nothing will mess up to bad before then lol
Hey! YES, YES, YES....The same situation is happening with my EX Accord. It is lowered with the Skunk 2 Lowering Springs, and racing suspension, but enough of that. It is possible that we are having difficulties due to the lowering, but I doubt it because mine is set right. I noticed a "roar" noise and thought that I may be a little out of aline. It was the wheel hub bearings. I am gonna replace the wheel hub bearings and the axel Sat. If you are buying an axel that often then I would say that is the problem, it is the only reasonable explaination as well. I have 18's on mine and I did use to do a little street racing so my boots ened up busted from the bottlee. Try that and let me know if ythat fixes the problem and I will you . Later
go yo http://www.accessoriesgiant.com they have free shipping and 1/2 the price. They have preformance parts and regular parts, not generic. Like I said I have about $3500.00 in my suspension, the other comment is true too, but it is the wheel bearings on mine and sounds like yours is too.I dunno where you live but I am in GA and I pay 75.00 for a new axel, I am sure that you have spent at least that much correct?
yea ive spent about 75 or so for a "refurbished" axle..next time around after I get my wheel bearing fixed ill prob go for some brand spanking new axles...hopefully that will fix the problem...oh and let me know if that wheel bearing fixes the problem that would be greatly appreciated!
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