Protosouls

Hello everyone,

So I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX with 300k miles on it, it has started to burn alot of oil so I bought an engine from a JDM importer, it is an F23A from a JDM 2001 Honda Odyssey with an advertised less that 55k miles on it. I have decided to do timing belt and check the valves and pistons while I have the engine out. I removed the head and found that one of the cylinders (Cylinder number 4, the one closest to the transmission) had some rust at the top and stains on the walls. I cleaned all the Pistons with a brass brush and then cleaned the cylinders with some steel wool. Three cylinders all look very similar while cylinder 4 is the one that looks kinda rough. There is no notching when I run my finger nail down the cylinder wall until the very top where the rings do not make contact and there is a bit of rough spot from the rust. Is this something that will need attention? Or should it be fine to resemble? The head gasket appeared to be sealing well and there was no visible spot where antifreeze was making its way into the cylinder, but I have never had the engine running so I can't say for sure. It also looks like it has probably been sitting for a while not being run before I got it.

Thanks for all the help in advance! Cylinder number 4 that has stains and rust
Cylinder number 1 that looks like cylinder 2 and 3

Protosouls

I am going to post this in the engine rebuild section, it seems to be more relevant to that topic. Sorry for the double post.

MAD_MIKE

Accetone and ATF mixed are good at cleaning light rust. I would not have used any materials that could leave deposits or removed the crosshatching of the cylinders. If you have polished the bores smooth there will be no oil retention in the cylinders and there will be a loss of compression.

jollyhonda

Make sure you clean up behind yourself very very very VERY well. Problem with steel wool is it likes to leave lots of little steel fibers behind. They will eventually find their way into bearings and destroy them. If you want to do something like that, a green scotchbrite pad or something of that nature would have been a better choice, since they typically stay together and don't leave pieces of themselves behind. I have known of numerous people who have used "scotch brite" roloc discs to clean intake gasket surfaces on small block chevy engines and wound up with a rod knock within 100 miles or so because of the fibers the disc left behind trashing the bearings. You need to really scrub down the areas with a lint free cloth of some sort to make sure nothing is left behind. It doesn't look like you damaged the cross hatch any, but mike is right, you don't want polished cylinder walls, you want to see the cross hatch. If the area in question is not in the ring travel portion of the cylinder, I would not get terribly concerned. Did you compression check the motor before you tore it down? If you have any other issues with the swap, check out my thread further down, I am putting the same motor in my 94 LX. My car is non-vtec, so you may have a slightly different time on hooking your solenoid up, since you already have a correct ECM and wiring in place.
Something to not that I have not put in my thread yet, swap out the front motor mount bracket off your F22b1. The bracket on the F23A lines up and works fine, but the stud that the actual motor mount bolts to is too long and does not have enough threads, and if you use it, you will have to utilize some sort of spacer to get the nut tight.
And random question, does the balancer on your motor have allowance for 1 or 2 accessory belts? I have 2 of these motors, and 1 has a 2 belt pulley and the other just a single belt...purely cat killing curiosity on that.