Perez_cb7

so lately I noticed its getting harder an harder to shift an now my clutch pedal is entirely to the floor im completely lost now because the clutch was just recently replaced an I don't see any leaks

holmesnmanny

look down at the clutch pedal where the push rod goes into the master cylinder and see if it's leaking there...this tends to be where it leaks...if this checks out dry at the rod check the slave cylinder by gently pulling back the boot and seeing if it's leaking there

Perez_cb7

found the problem the idiot that I paid to do my clutch didn't torque down the flywheel or the pressure plate

Slammed95Cord

I had the same problem, except it happened really quick, clutch worked fine then one day it just went to the floor and couldnt put it in any gear... was told to replace clutch master cylinder and that would fix it, that didnt, so i was told to replace the clutch slave cylinder, that didnt fix it, we have tried bleeding it a few times, on different days, really need my car working, its a 94 EX, if anyone can help please let me know

ej7attack

good thing you didn't end up with a bigger issue.

cschlick

^ i over torqued the flywheel bolts on my '88 ranger two years ago, they sheared 500mi later when i replaced the starter, i have yet to find replacements

ej7attack

dealer? bolts cant be that much and the price would be worth it rather than pulling a tranny to get more!

cschlick

they are discontinued parts, the local ford dealer here sucks, they over charge for everything. the only replacements i can find through any parts store so far are only half as long as the originals.

plus sits higher than most full size trucks, wont do over 55, and gets ~12mpg.

ej7attack

lol I guess that answers that! luckily I have not ran into over torqueing flywheels bolts YET! im collecting the parts for my 5 spd swap so ill be torqueing down flywheel bolts real soon. (knock on wood)

cschlick

save your self a headache, use a torque wrench, and threadlocker

cschlick

SLAMMED, i will be replacing my master cyl this weekend and replacing the lines with one continuous piece of brake line to eliminate the clutch damper, that stupid soft hose, and the clutch joint.

i know it works if you use braided SS line, im just going to used a length of regular flared brake line though

ej7attack

definitely ideal to use all steel brake line with deleted dampener. function over form.