The Official EF Discussion Thread
how it looked when i got it last tues







since then i have put a full 2.5" exhaust (it came with a rusty tri y and 4' of straight pipe), put a new steering wheel in it and a si clock, dash cubby, and pimp a$$ coin pocket, also ive trimmed the carpet to get the door seal pieces to fit (it came with them they just weren't on) rebuilt and cleaned up the tucked harness and most of the under dash wiring because...Oh god!, and i ripped out what was left of the ac stuff (wasn't complete to begin with) and pulled out the stock overflow and put a nice moroso in..... oh and smoothed and painted the valve cover, and put a proper intake on it because t came with one all rigged on







since then i have put a full 2.5" exhaust (it came with a rusty tri y and 4' of straight pipe), put a new steering wheel in it and a si clock, dash cubby, and pimp a$$ coin pocket, also ive trimmed the carpet to get the door seal pieces to fit (it came with them they just weren't on) rebuilt and cleaned up the tucked harness and most of the under dash wiring because...Oh god!, and i ripped out what was left of the ac stuff (wasn't complete to begin with) and pulled out the stock overflow and put a nice moroso in..... oh and smoothed and painted the valve cover, and put a proper intake on it because t came with one all rigged on
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
just the tach until i get a lx cluster, the other ones i havnt taken out yet because they are wired in and i still am in the process of deciphering the mostly pink and blue wiring throughout the car, but i will use them when i get it boosted, also the apexi timer is still in it however it is currently doing nothing but tell me my voltage
Please please please.... leave the OEM mirrors.. those fenders dont deserve to be punished!
looks good though man, I look forward to seeing you get back to it again..
looks good though man, I look forward to seeing you get back to it again..


Well the good news is that my car is finished; bad news is that it isn't. Transmission started making noise and halfway through it stopped going into 4th. Tuner also told me that the dyno he's now using reads low. I guess i could go to a different dyno to get better, more accurate numbers, but as long as it's running right, i don't really care. Dyno was at 8psi
I always hear tuners that use eddy current synod say "my dyno reads low" but in reality it reads accurate. Just different calculation of power. Taken from Wikipedia. Just to clarify:
A brake dynamometer applies variable load on the Prime Mover (PM) and measures the PM's ability to move or hold the RPM as related to the "braking force" applied. It is usually connected to a computer that records applied braking torque and calculates engine power output based on information from a "load cell" or "strain gauge" and RPM (speed sensor).
An inertia dynamometer provides a fixed inertial mass load and calculates the power required to accelerate that fixed, known mass and uses a computer to record RPM and acceleration rate to calculate torque. The engine is generally tested from somewhat above idle to its maximum RPM and the o
A brake dynamometer applies variable load on the Prime Mover (PM) and measures the PM's ability to move or hold the RPM as related to the "braking force" applied. It is usually connected to a computer that records applied braking torque and calculates engine power output based on information from a "load cell" or "strain gauge" and RPM (speed sensor).
An inertia dynamometer provides a fixed inertial mass load and calculates the power required to accelerate that fixed, known mass and uses a computer to record RPM and acceleration rate to calculate torque. The engine is generally tested from somewhat above idle to its maximum RPM and the o
Saving it! I loved it too.. hahahah I try to keep stuff spread out from site to site... dont wanna just be killing things and beating them to death. Page owns me lately just trying to get it going right.. but heck man. 1700 people aint bad. I appreciate all you fellas coming over from in here, good to put some faces to names.
I always hear tuners that use eddy current synod say "my dyno reads low" but in reality it reads accurate. Just different calculation of power. Taken from Wikipedia. Just to clarify:
A brake dynamometer applies variable load on the Prime Mover (PM) and measures the PM's ability to move or hold the RPM as related to the "braking force" applied. It is usually connected to a computer that records applied braking torque and calculates engine power output based on information from a "load cell" or "strain gauge" and RPM (speed sensor).
An inertia dynamometer provides a fixed inertial mass load and calculates the power required to accelerate that fixed, known mass and uses a computer to record RPM and acceleration rate to calculate torque. The engine is generally tested from somewhat above idle to its maximum RPM and the o
A brake dynamometer applies variable load on the Prime Mover (PM) and measures the PM's ability to move or hold the RPM as related to the "braking force" applied. It is usually connected to a computer that records applied braking torque and calculates engine power output based on information from a "load cell" or "strain gauge" and RPM (speed sensor).
An inertia dynamometer provides a fixed inertial mass load and calculates the power required to accelerate that fixed, known mass and uses a computer to record RPM and acceleration rate to calculate torque. The engine is generally tested from somewhat above idle to its maximum RPM and the o

that was my stock B18a1 with s2 manifold. Everything else is the same except i'm using a better engine that makes +38hp and +6tq. And that was on a Dynojet which is a brake dyno
Looks like a solid curve, not bad power, more importantly is its safe to drive. Nothing like driving on a basemap
Wgats the plan for the transmission?
Wgats the plan for the transmission?








Don't burn this one down
