The Official EF Discussion Thread
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I wonder how high of compression u can run on a k20 before the you get valve banging due to the cam advance?</TD></TR></TABLE>
At least 15.7:1
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1548678
Latest update says 306whp NA.
There's a vid on there too.
I wonder how high of compression u can run on a k20 before the you get valve banging due to the cam advance?</TD></TR></TABLE>
At least 15.7:1
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1548678
Latest update says 306whp NA.
There's a vid on there too.
Agreed. Very nice, clean, simple. As much as I like the exhaust being dumped in the center, it kinda bugs me that there is a cut out in the rear bumper for an exhaust tip.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDicktonesx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ever price an ITR vs a k20R? at this stage in the game they are both 5grand.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very true. But you can build your own "R" for $2500 with a b18c and b16 head, and send me the extra $2500 for beer, pizza and stripers
ever price an ITR vs a k20R? at this stage in the game they are both 5grand.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very true. But you can build your own "R" for $2500 with a b18c and b16 head, and send me the extra $2500 for beer, pizza and stripers
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I wonder how high of compression u can run on a k20 before the you get valve banging due to the cam advance?</TD></TR></TABLE>
aguilar was at 18.5:1 with a nonvtec b series 5 yrs ago. methanol.
what you as well as most is that the car he set all the records with had a 30 shot of nitrous.
i didnt click that link but if youre talking about henricks build (crxee8) he disable the cam advance for that reason. its a b series style vtec.
I wonder how high of compression u can run on a k20 before the you get valve banging due to the cam advance?</TD></TR></TABLE>
aguilar was at 18.5:1 with a nonvtec b series 5 yrs ago. methanol.
what you as well as most is that the car he set all the records with had a 30 shot of nitrous.
i didnt click that link but if youre talking about henricks build (crxee8) he disable the cam advance for that reason. its a b series style vtec.
Right, intake cam duration is essentially the "i" in "i-vtec" for those that don't know. Most aftermarket cams or cam gears will disable it, K-Pro too. You don't want to advance or retard the timing 25* either way when you have that much compression. When pistons hit valves, neither wins the fight.
Edit - Motor talk in the Official EF Discussion Thread, uh oh.
Edit - Motor talk in the Official EF Discussion Thread, uh oh.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Very true. But you can build your own "R" for $2500 with a b18c and b16 head, and send me the extra $2500 for beer, pizza and stripers</TD></TR></TABLE>
a pr3 on a gsr bottom end is SO SO SO FAR away from a ITR is you have ever taken the 2 of them apart.
its the little nickle and dime **** that adds up to an "R". cams, intake mani, header, valvetrain, headwork, different pistons ect ect.
the real solution i think maybe you were trying to get at is throwing a grand at a GSR and making more WHP than an ITR for cheaper, which these days isnt possible anymore because im seeing gsr swaps for almost 4 grand.
still, this minute, the best horsepower per dollar (all motor) is a stock b20 block with rs machines pistons a vtec head with some blox cams and a decent header. its 215whp any way you shake a stick for about 3 grand or less.
ive mentioned it before and some people have hinted about it but the only thing that separates the straight nonvtec element motor from destroying every other K series is the rocker assembly. when peopel start catching that.... prices will jump around.
Very true. But you can build your own "R" for $2500 with a b18c and b16 head, and send me the extra $2500 for beer, pizza and stripers</TD></TR></TABLE>
a pr3 on a gsr bottom end is SO SO SO FAR away from a ITR is you have ever taken the 2 of them apart.
its the little nickle and dime **** that adds up to an "R". cams, intake mani, header, valvetrain, headwork, different pistons ect ect.
the real solution i think maybe you were trying to get at is throwing a grand at a GSR and making more WHP than an ITR for cheaper, which these days isnt possible anymore because im seeing gsr swaps for almost 4 grand.
still, this minute, the best horsepower per dollar (all motor) is a stock b20 block with rs machines pistons a vtec head with some blox cams and a decent header. its 215whp any way you shake a stick for about 3 grand or less.
ive mentioned it before and some people have hinted about it but the only thing that separates the straight nonvtec element motor from destroying every other K series is the rocker assembly. when peopel start catching that.... prices will jump around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDicktonesx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive mentioned it before and some people have hinted about it but the only thing that separates the straight nonvtec element motor from destroying every other K series is the rocker assembly. when peopel start catching that.... prices will jump around.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're saying you don't have the swap the head, just the internals?
You're saying you don't have the swap the head, just the internals?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're saying you don't have the swap the head, just the internals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I've heard...I'm thinking that's what he's suggesting.
My point with the homemade ITR motor was you buy a gsr short block, swap pistons and do minor head work with cams and you can make just about the same power as an ITR, for less.
I'm starting to think I need a b20 bottom end now. I used to shy away from them, but apparently they are stronger than I had thought
You're saying you don't have the swap the head, just the internals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I've heard...I'm thinking that's what he's suggesting.
My point with the homemade ITR motor was you buy a gsr short block, swap pistons and do minor head work with cams and you can make just about the same power as an ITR, for less.
I'm starting to think I need a b20 bottom end now. I used to shy away from them, but apparently they are stronger than I had thought
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're saying you don't have the swap the head, just the internals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah there was a thread like a year ago about this on k20a3 heads. Just add rockers and cams and a couple minor things and your there.
You're saying you don't have the swap the head, just the internals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah there was a thread like a year ago about this on k20a3 heads. Just add rockers and cams and a couple minor things and your there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah there was a thread like a year ago about this on k20a3 heads. Just add rockers and cams and a couple minor things and your there. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Too bad the TSX is the only 2.4L with a decent bottom end. Some say the K20A/K20A2 bottom end is good for 9500 rpms consistently. The torque is nice on the 2.4L's, but I prefer the higher revving version.
Too bad the TSX is the only 2.4L with a decent bottom end. Some say the K20A/K20A2 bottom end is good for 9500 rpms consistently. The torque is nice on the 2.4L's, but I prefer the higher revving version.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thenick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any hardcore D-series all motor guys in here? I can't wait to build one on the side...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<---
However im a hardcore Allmotor guy on Kseries and Bseries too.
<---
However im a hardcore Allmotor guy on Kseries and Bseries too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thenick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any hardcore D-series all motor guys in here? I can't wait to build one on the side...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm just Hardcore

I'm just Hardcore
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<---
However im a hardcore guy on K's and B's too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kids and Boys?
<---
However im a hardcore guy on K's and B's too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Kids and Boys?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_box »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm just Hardcore</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah were talking 12.5:1 compression, Crower3's, and ITBs
I'm just Hardcore</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah were talking 12.5:1 compression, Crower3's, and ITBs
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Too bad the TSX is the only 2.4L with a decent bottom end. Some say the K20A/K20A2 bottom end is good for 9500 rpms consistently. The torque is nice on the 2.4L's, but I prefer the higher revving version.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the accord, crv, and element bottom ends are fine. you can bang em all to 9 grand just the same. and the k24 is making more whp at 7500 than the k20 is making at 9500
R P M = Ruins Peoples Motors
Too bad the TSX is the only 2.4L with a decent bottom end. Some say the K20A/K20A2 bottom end is good for 9500 rpms consistently. The torque is nice on the 2.4L's, but I prefer the higher revving version.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the accord, crv, and element bottom ends are fine. you can bang em all to 9 grand just the same. and the k24 is making more whp at 7500 than the k20 is making at 9500
R P M = Ruins Peoples Motors
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Kids and Boys?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
nah were talking ITB
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kids and Boys?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
nah were talking ITB
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDicktonesx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">R P M = Ruins Peoples Motors</TD></TR></TABLE>
With a 99mm stroke and 9k rpms, thats F1 piston speeds. I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with you.
With a 99mm stroke and 9k rpms, thats F1 piston speeds. I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
With a 99mm stroke and 9k rpms, thats F1 piston speeds. I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
R/s is overrated - earl laskey rip
plenty of boosted shitty shitty rs ls vtec (1.54:1) go to 10k. If u have the valve train, just rev as far as you make power.
You either want your honda to go 300k miles or make power....
With a 99mm stroke and 9k rpms, thats F1 piston speeds. I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
R/s is overrated - earl laskey rip
plenty of boosted shitty shitty rs ls vtec (1.54:1) go to 10k. If u have the valve train, just rev as far as you make power.
You either want your honda to go 300k miles or make power....
You can only pick two.
Fast
Cheap
Reliable
I'll take fast and reliable. Yes, it's possible to rev them like that, but your motor will not last. Traction and weight are just as big of factors as hp. The right combination of the 3 will ensure longevity and speed.
...oh, and I own this page.
Fast
Cheap
Reliable
I'll take fast and reliable. Yes, it's possible to rev them like that, but your motor will not last. Traction and weight are just as big of factors as hp. The right combination of the 3 will ensure longevity and speed.
...oh, and I own this page.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can only pick two.
Fast
Cheap
Reliable
I'll take fast and reliable. Yes, it's possible to rev them like that, but your motor will not last. Traction and weight are just as big of factors as hp. The right combination of the 3 will ensure longevity and speed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
True and just remember a motor is only as good as the tune. And weight, no other better way to get an ef out of its way than to lighten it up... or get a turbo
And for cheep, pay me now pay me later philosophy comes to mind
Fast
Cheap
Reliable
I'll take fast and reliable. Yes, it's possible to rev them like that, but your motor will not last. Traction and weight are just as big of factors as hp. The right combination of the 3 will ensure longevity and speed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>True and just remember a motor is only as good as the tune. And weight, no other better way to get an ef out of its way than to lighten it up... or get a turbo
And for cheep, pay me now pay me later philosophy comes to mind










