is there a 4-2-1 honda header?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a 4-2-1 honda header?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah all b series minus the itr 4-1 i think

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha im going to buy 4 different rotas and put it on there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah all b series minus the itr 4-1 i think</TD></TR></TABLE>

so gsr? what about usdm itr? i'm trying to find a header to use with the stock crossmember, and 4-1 is too big and hangs too low

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CrxWolf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Haha im going to buy 4 different rotas and put it on there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wait till i get to fl and ill go in on that with you.

 

name change?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a question... a while back in a different thread, there was a person who did a glass top conversion onto a crx. I'm pretty sure it was a glass top, but they said that there was this glue they used and they tested it. It was supposted to be stronger than the spot welds and when they did the tensle test, the actual metal tore apart first before the glue. Does anyone remember the topic i can look back on or what the product was called? I know theres seem sealer but I don't really think that was the product. anyone else care to chime in? maybe it was a roof swap where they wanted to get rid of the sunroof and put a hf roof in for auto x. in any event, anyone have any clues?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

UltimX, that guy is mike from http://www.cr-xcentral.com (his write up is on that site) his sn is cybercrx, a cool dude.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so gsr? what about usdm itr? i'm trying to find a header to use with the stock crossmember, and 4-1 is too big and hangs too low</TD></TR></TABLE>

jdm itr header is 4-1 and its DOESNT clear even jimfab bar.

 

usdm itr header is the same as any other itr header.

the best header you can buy that will clear is the jg edelbrock pro-flo 4-2-1 and they are still on closeout at summit as far as i know. and when i mean BEST i mean price per hp. they are 140 bucks right now and were 399.95 when htye were released

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDicktonesx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">usdm itr header is the same as any other itr header.

the best header you can buy that will clear is the jg edelbrock pro-flo 4-2-1 and they are still on closeout at summit as far as i know. and when i mean BEST i mean price per hp. they are 140 bucks right now and were 399.95 when htye were released

</TD></TR></TABLE>

140 ****, cant u also run an open b pipe with them too?

 

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDicktonesx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the best header you can buy that will clear is the jg edelbrock pro-flo 4-2-1 and they are still on closeout at summit as far as i know. and when i mean BEST i mean price per hp. they are 140 bucks right now and were 399.95 when htye were released

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome. You are actually the second person to mention that today. If I'm going to have a b16 head with a gsr block, do I just get the header for an obd-1 car, since I"m going to be converting to obd1?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

140 ****, cant u also run an open b pipe with them too?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup and those are on close out for like 40 bucks im about 90%sure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Awesome. You are actually the second person to mention that today. If I'm going to have a b16 head with a gsr block, do I just get the header for an obd-1 car, since I"m going to be converting to obd1?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah the only difference is the 02 placement

ultimx here is the link for hte glass top

http://www.cr-xcentral.com/for...?t=10

 

right. i want 1 o2 sensor by the test pipe, vs. 2 on the primaries

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right. i want 1 o2 sensor by the test pipe, vs. 2 on the primaries</TD></TR></TABLE>
you might wanna add a second bung for a wideband if you ever get it tuned (dont know what your goals are)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might wanna add a second bung for a wideband if you ever get it tuned (dont know what your goals are)</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you dyno tune there is no need for the added bung.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_box &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>

you really need to stop...aren't you roll'n on 13 inch stocks right now , with NO wing ..and those pick your part mesh wheels up front ? STOP hate'n!!! just be an enthusiast...nobodies car is "perfect" and simply having "rare" items on your car does not make it tight..execution is more important then having a slew or "rare jdm/edm" crap on a car...there is a reason some of that crap is "RARE"...LMAO!!!

car enthusiast...ef by choice...other project stashed in the desert...Lost is Black...OUT!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you dyno tune there is no need for the added bung.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i street tune before dyno to spend less time on the dyno (less $)

 

omg i just lol

 

i was planning on having a wideband o2 sensor (plx 300), so i think i only need one bung. i believe you can run it wide or narrow band

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was planning on having a wideband o2 sensor (plx 300), so i think i only need one bung. i believe you can run it wide or narrow band</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah most widebands have a narrowband output that you run to your ecu, i do this wiht my zeitronix.

 

Any one know the price of the ef3 chargespeed/ j's lip? (I cant email them cause i havent set up my account on my mac. )