The Official EF Discussion Thread
Re: (STDClayton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STDClayton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you save 720 by buying slipstreams verson sw388s and can use that 720 towards other things.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know what he's trying to say, I just don't understand how he got to the number $720?
If you buy the rota wheels ($500 from his example) instead of shelling out $1000-1500 (again from his example) you save $500-1000...not $720.
So bored at work that I'm trying to understand simple math...
I know what he's trying to say, I just don't understand how he got to the number $720?
If you buy the rota wheels ($500 from his example) instead of shelling out $1000-1500 (again from his example) you save $500-1000...not $720.
So bored at work that I'm trying to understand simple math...
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From: Twin Cities, Midwest
Re: (CrxWolf)
the thing about Rotas is that they are trying to be something they are not. and ripping off other's design. That is why I do not support them.....btw I LOVE OEM Honda wheels on different Hondas....
but for the record nothing says "Im trying hard to be liekd" other than Rotas......think about it "JDM Imitated wheels".....
"I can not afford" is not really excuse...take the 600 dollars or so you have for Rotas and wait a year and learn to SAVE MONEY and you will eventually have enough to buy ANY wheel you would like and will be much more pleased with yourself....its all about timing and having the money when someone else is in need of money.....
but for the record nothing says "Im trying hard to be liekd" other than Rotas......think about it "JDM Imitated wheels".....
"I can not afford" is not really excuse...take the 600 dollars or so you have for Rotas and wait a year and learn to SAVE MONEY and you will eventually have enough to buy ANY wheel you would like and will be much more pleased with yourself....its all about timing and having the money when someone else is in need of money.....
Re: (EFnerd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFnerd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the thing about Rotas is that they are trying to be something they are not. and ripping off other's design. That is why I do not support them.....btw I LOVE OEM Honda wheels on different Hondas....
but for the record nothing says "Im trying hard to be liekd" other than Rotas......think about it "JDM Imitated wheels".....
"I can not afford" is not really excuse...take the 600 dollars or so you have for Rotas and wait a year and learn to SAVE MONEY and you will eventually have enough to buy ANY wheel you would like and will be much more pleased with yourself....its all about timing and having the money when someone else is in need of money.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who cares they are a rip off, they are light cheep clean and the work.
<---- For the record im still on stock 91 si blades
but for the record nothing says "Im trying hard to be liekd" other than Rotas......think about it "JDM Imitated wheels".....
"I can not afford" is not really excuse...take the 600 dollars or so you have for Rotas and wait a year and learn to SAVE MONEY and you will eventually have enough to buy ANY wheel you would like and will be much more pleased with yourself....its all about timing and having the money when someone else is in need of money.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who cares they are a rip off, they are light cheep clean and the work.
<---- For the record im still on stock 91 si blades
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From: Off to britland, ca, us
Re: (EFnerd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFnerd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the thing about Rotas is that they are trying to be something they are not. and ripping off other's design. That is why I do not support them.....btw I LOVE OEM Honda wheels on different Hondas....
but for the record nothing says "Im trying hard to be liekd" other than Rotas......think about it "JDM Imitated wheels".....
"I can not afford" is not really excuse...take the 600 dollars or so you have for Rotas and wait a year and learn to SAVE MONEY and you will eventually have enough to buy ANY wheel you would like and will be much more pleased with yourself....its all about timing and having the money when someone else is in need of money.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is why I have decided to go with Enkei RPF1. They are still really cheap but at the same time look good and are light! Enkei's are kind of the happy medium between overpriced JDM wheels and cheapy wheels like Rota, plus when it comes down to it they are the oem manufacturer for Honda wheels. Why pay twice as much for a wheel that isnt even forged and only weighs 1lb less than the RPF1 like the sw388
Modified by mekanism at 5:32 PM 1/24/2007
but for the record nothing says "Im trying hard to be liekd" other than Rotas......think about it "JDM Imitated wheels".....
"I can not afford" is not really excuse...take the 600 dollars or so you have for Rotas and wait a year and learn to SAVE MONEY and you will eventually have enough to buy ANY wheel you would like and will be much more pleased with yourself....its all about timing and having the money when someone else is in need of money.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is why I have decided to go with Enkei RPF1. They are still really cheap but at the same time look good and are light! Enkei's are kind of the happy medium between overpriced JDM wheels and cheapy wheels like Rota, plus when it comes down to it they are the oem manufacturer for Honda wheels. Why pay twice as much for a wheel that isnt even forged and only weighs 1lb less than the RPF1 like the sw388
Modified by mekanism at 5:32 PM 1/24/2007
Re: (mekanism)
Is this how a paint job from a non painter should do it?
i basically strip my car down with sandpaper(400 grit), till its smooth, primer any spots that have hit bare metal, sand it till its smooth, clean it, do 3 base coats and let it dry for 15 or more min depending on the temp, let dry for about an hour or more depending on temp, put 3 clear coats on it and let it dry for a couple days or so depening on temp. sand again using 800, 1500 then 3000 grit, clean it, then spray 2-3 more coats of clear, let it cure for another 2 or so more days. sand again with 2000 then 3000 grit, use cutiing compound, then a good poishing compound, and lastly use a real good hand polish right?
i basically strip my car down with sandpaper(400 grit), till its smooth, primer any spots that have hit bare metal, sand it till its smooth, clean it, do 3 base coats and let it dry for 15 or more min depending on the temp, let dry for about an hour or more depending on temp, put 3 clear coats on it and let it dry for a couple days or so depening on temp. sand again using 800, 1500 then 3000 grit, clean it, then spray 2-3 more coats of clear, let it cure for another 2 or so more days. sand again with 2000 then 3000 grit, use cutiing compound, then a good poishing compound, and lastly use a real good hand polish right?
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From: Just Drank A 5th of VODKA Dare me to drive, Ca, u.s.
Re: (UltimX)
wow, i'm not even sure if i should touch upon the real vs. fake wheel topic...
all i know is that i track my car on rotas and never have a problem, i am not into hondas to be liked by anybody else, matter of fact i was into them when many cat's that own hondas now thought camaros and mustang 5.0's were the kings of the street...it's funny to me to see the division of enthusiasts between real and fake, LOL!!! for those of you that don't live in cali or don't daily drive your car understand this....when you deal with everyday road conditions, thieves, haters etc, i'd rather bust a cast slipstream then bend an SW beyond repair...i'll get another slip for $100 bucks...can you get another SW, or GAB, Mugen, Stark for that price, let alone find a person that will sell a single wheel, LOL!!!
I'll cop two set's of make believe, i mean, 'FAKE' wheels with tires instead of a set of $1200 used GayDM wheels...thanks
all i know is that i track my car on rotas and never have a problem, i am not into hondas to be liked by anybody else, matter of fact i was into them when many cat's that own hondas now thought camaros and mustang 5.0's were the kings of the street...it's funny to me to see the division of enthusiasts between real and fake, LOL!!! for those of you that don't live in cali or don't daily drive your car understand this....when you deal with everyday road conditions, thieves, haters etc, i'd rather bust a cast slipstream then bend an SW beyond repair...i'll get another slip for $100 bucks...can you get another SW, or GAB, Mugen, Stark for that price, let alone find a person that will sell a single wheel, LOL!!!
I'll cop two set's of make believe, i mean, 'FAKE' wheels with tires instead of a set of $1200 used GayDM wheels...thanks
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From: Twin Cities, Midwest
Re: (LoSt is BlaCk)
i just dont liek the stealing of someone elses design...id be pissed if someone did that to me...i do not however hold anythign against people that own Rotas....just not my cup of tea...unless its slipstreams because there are 100 different versions of that wheel and they look really nice no matter what
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From: gold rust on my mugen rims
Re: (JapJunkie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapJunkie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Who gives a f uck where you stand, as long as your happy man </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what I'm saying
people just gotta stop make excusses for what they buy and say they bought because they like it.
Who gives a f uck where you stand, as long as your happy man
</TD></TR></TABLE>thats what I'm saying
people just gotta stop make excusses for what they buy and say they bought because they like it.
EFB055
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,249
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From: Brisvegas, QLD, Australia
http://www.hondamarketplace.com/zerothread/1874383
Just throwing these in here if anyones interested
Just throwing these in here if anyones interested
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 404
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From: calhoun, ga, usa
Re: (UltimX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this how a paint job from a non painter should do it?
i basically strip my car down with sandpaper(400 grit), till its smooth, primer any spots that have hit bare metal, sand it till its smooth, clean it, do 3 base coats and let it dry for 15 or more min depending on the temp, let dry for about an hour or more depending on temp, put 3 clear coats on it and let it dry for a couple days or so depening on temp. sand again using 800, 1500 then 3000 grit, clean it, then spray 2-3 more coats of clear, let it cure for another 2 or so more days. sand again with 2000 then 3000 grit, use cutiing compound, then a good poishing compound, and lastly use a real good hand polish right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok Look iam going to expalin one more time but just so u know if u have never painted something then dont do it
Ok fix teh dents prime the dents there is no need to prime the whole car
Next If it was me I would detrim the whole car
Next wet sand teh whole car with 400 grit or 500 wet paper then get a red 3m scuff pad and comet and scuff the whole car with the pad and teh comet
Next wash the **** out of the car everything the door jams teh wheel wells engine bay
Let it Dry or blow it off with the air hose
Then tape it up seal off all the jams and holes in the body tape up teh wheel wells
OK THE PAINT
Frist clean the car with wax and grease remover then blow the car off with a tack cloth teh paper and everything
Next u sppary one light covered coat of epoxy sealer TEMP. between 75 and 95 deg. let flash for 10 to 15 min Mske sure it is not tacky to the touch
Next use the tack colth to wipe off only the masking paper
Next spary a light transparnet coat of base let flash for 10 min then spary a light covering coat of base let flash for 10 min repeat one more time
ONLY IF U ARE SPARYING METALICS Spary a dry coat over the car so the MET will flow out and not look cloudy
OK TIME FOR CLEAR
Ok Frist make sure the base is not tacky to touch Then u use the tack cloth to wipe off teh masking papper THen LIGHTLY wipe off the body panels with the tack cloth
Next spary a light but covering coat of clear wait 10 or so min until the clear FEELS tacky to the touch
Next spary a medium coving coat of clear If u are planning on buffing the car wait 10 or so min untill the clear feels tacky to the touch and spary another coat of clear then u are done
MY BUFFING PROCESS
Frist wet Color sand it with 1000 grit with a soft block Then I will color sand with 1500 Next i go to 2000 Ok color sand is done
Buffing use an eletric buffer witha wool cutting pad and 3m cutting compound
Wipe it off with a soft colth to get the extra compound off
Next use a foam polishing pad and 3m polishing compound
then wipe it off
Next Use a new soft cloth and some plum crazy to wipe on and wipe off like wax
clean jams and u are done
This how I do it everyone does it a little differnt
i basically strip my car down with sandpaper(400 grit), till its smooth, primer any spots that have hit bare metal, sand it till its smooth, clean it, do 3 base coats and let it dry for 15 or more min depending on the temp, let dry for about an hour or more depending on temp, put 3 clear coats on it and let it dry for a couple days or so depening on temp. sand again using 800, 1500 then 3000 grit, clean it, then spray 2-3 more coats of clear, let it cure for another 2 or so more days. sand again with 2000 then 3000 grit, use cutiing compound, then a good poishing compound, and lastly use a real good hand polish right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok Look iam going to expalin one more time but just so u know if u have never painted something then dont do it
Ok fix teh dents prime the dents there is no need to prime the whole car
Next If it was me I would detrim the whole car
Next wet sand teh whole car with 400 grit or 500 wet paper then get a red 3m scuff pad and comet and scuff the whole car with the pad and teh comet
Next wash the **** out of the car everything the door jams teh wheel wells engine bay
Let it Dry or blow it off with the air hose
Then tape it up seal off all the jams and holes in the body tape up teh wheel wells
OK THE PAINT
Frist clean the car with wax and grease remover then blow the car off with a tack cloth teh paper and everything
Next u sppary one light covered coat of epoxy sealer TEMP. between 75 and 95 deg. let flash for 10 to 15 min Mske sure it is not tacky to the touch
Next use the tack colth to wipe off only the masking paper
Next spary a light transparnet coat of base let flash for 10 min then spary a light covering coat of base let flash for 10 min repeat one more time
ONLY IF U ARE SPARYING METALICS Spary a dry coat over the car so the MET will flow out and not look cloudy
OK TIME FOR CLEAR
Ok Frist make sure the base is not tacky to touch Then u use the tack cloth to wipe off teh masking papper THen LIGHTLY wipe off the body panels with the tack cloth
Next spary a light but covering coat of clear wait 10 or so min until the clear FEELS tacky to the touch
Next spary a medium coving coat of clear If u are planning on buffing the car wait 10 or so min untill the clear feels tacky to the touch and spary another coat of clear then u are done
MY BUFFING PROCESS
Frist wet Color sand it with 1000 grit with a soft block Then I will color sand with 1500 Next i go to 2000 Ok color sand is done
Buffing use an eletric buffer witha wool cutting pad and 3m cutting compound
Wipe it off with a soft colth to get the extra compound off
Next use a foam polishing pad and 3m polishing compound
then wipe it off
Next Use a new soft cloth and some plum crazy to wipe on and wipe off like wax
clean jams and u are done
This how I do it everyone does it a little differnt
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From: Eastern, WA, USA
Re: (EFnerd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFnerd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the 600 dollars or so you have for Rotas and wait a year and learn to SAVE MONEY and you will eventually have enough to buy ANY wheel you would like.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the reason I have Rotas. I hate waiting, and a used set of Rota's can be found for $300- $400. Why wait a year,and roll on stock wheels, or steelies. Just to have a set of wheels that you spent $1200 on and then **** yourself, when you hit a curb (talking from experiacne on some wheels I curbed) .
Don't get me wrong. I love how "JDM wheels" can make a car stand out in a crowd. But for me, I will use that money ($1200) on my motor or something else. Maybe some good tires.
This is the reason I have Rotas. I hate waiting, and a used set of Rota's can be found for $300- $400. Why wait a year,and roll on stock wheels, or steelies. Just to have a set of wheels that you spent $1200 on and then **** yourself, when you hit a curb (talking from experiacne on some wheels I curbed) .
Don't get me wrong. I love how "JDM wheels" can make a car stand out in a crowd. But for me, I will use that money ($1200) on my motor or something else. Maybe some good tires.
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From: Normal, Illinois
Re: (91' LS-VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91’ LS-VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Joined: May 2004
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From: calhoun, ga, usa
Re:
U ppl need to get off teh wheel real jdm or fake **** any way here it is if ur car is LHD it will never bee jdm no matter how much jdm goodeis or the JDM sytle u throw at it
If u dont like the stuff then oh well it is not ur car there is no need for ur opion unless it is asked for
U buy the **** that u want and that all thats all that matters
NO disrespect to anyone this is my opion
If u dont like the stuff then oh well it is not ur car there is no need for ur opion unless it is asked for
U buy the **** that u want and that all thats all that matters
NO disrespect to anyone this is my opion
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From: Right near the beach BOI, Ga
Re: Re: (URBAN TANK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by URBAN TANK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">U ppl need to get off teh wheel real jdm or fake **** any way here it is if ur car is LHD it will never bee jdm no matter how much jdm goodeis or the JDM sytle u throw at it
If u dont like the stuff then oh well it is not ur car there is no need for ur opion unless it is asked for
U buy the **** that u want and that all thats all that matters </TD></TR></TABLE>
If u dont like the stuff then oh well it is not ur car there is no need for ur opion unless it is asked for
U buy the **** that u want and that all thats all that matters </TD></TR></TABLE>
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Off to britland, ca, us
Re: (URBAN TANK)
This is a very similar process that I do as well. I have never used Comet for cleaning, wouldnt that introduce unwanted chemicals into the pores of the surface. I generally use Dawn original scent dish soap for final cleaning before paint cleaning solvent. This method works for me and your method works for you. There's always a million different ways to get the same results!
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From: Alabama
Re: Re: (URBAN TANK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by URBAN TANK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">U ppl need to get off teh wheel real jdm or fake **** any way here it is if ur car is LHD it will never bee jdm no matter how much jdm goodeis or the JDM sytle u throw at it
If u dont like the stuff then oh well it is not ur car there is no need for ur opion unless it is asked for
U buy the **** that u want and that all thats all that matters
NO disrespect to anyone this is my opion </TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha does that really make any sense? Urban Tank, I didn't ask for your opinion but you still rumble on. This is the interweb there is going to be more opinions throw at you more then honda civics with rotas. I don't care what people do to there car, I can care less as long its clean.
If u dont like the stuff then oh well it is not ur car there is no need for ur opion unless it is asked for
U buy the **** that u want and that all thats all that matters
NO disrespect to anyone this is my opion </TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha does that really make any sense? Urban Tank, I didn't ask for your opinion but you still rumble on. This is the interweb there is going to be more opinions throw at you more then honda civics with rotas. I don't care what people do to there car, I can care less as long its clean.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: calhoun, ga, usa
Re: Re: (CrxWolf)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CrxWolf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha does that really make any sense? Urban Tank, I didn't ask for your opinion but you still rumble on. This is the interweb there is going to be more opinions throw at you more then honda civics with rotas. I don't care what people do to there car, I can care less as long its clean. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Basicaly what iam saying is that i bet 90% of the ppl on here is tired of hearing about it
Basicaly what iam saying is that i bet 90% of the ppl on here is tired of hearing about it
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Phoenix
Re: (KingDanOne)
wow...real vs fake is still going.
damn.
i like multi-piece wheels.
multi-piece wheels are typically forged or semi-forged.
forging costs more and is typically done by higher end companies.
therefore i rock higher end wheels.
that's how i get down and my explanation of it.
it is kinda gay taht rota hasn't made an original design since those "retro's" or whatever teh fug they were called. if rota at least made a half dozen of their own designs it wouldn't be that big of a deal. no one bites konig heliums for looking like ce28n's or mf8's but everyone is on rotas dick about circuit 8 looking like those wheels. my belief is that it is because konig makes alot of other designs adn rota/drag/spun do not.
if anyone disagrees...ok. if i wanted you to like me i would have gotten an eg hatch and put slipstreams, amber corners, a duckbill, and a super low drop.
damn.
i like multi-piece wheels.
multi-piece wheels are typically forged or semi-forged.
forging costs more and is typically done by higher end companies.
therefore i rock higher end wheels.
that's how i get down and my explanation of it.
it is kinda gay taht rota hasn't made an original design since those "retro's" or whatever teh fug they were called. if rota at least made a half dozen of their own designs it wouldn't be that big of a deal. no one bites konig heliums for looking like ce28n's or mf8's but everyone is on rotas dick about circuit 8 looking like those wheels. my belief is that it is because konig makes alot of other designs adn rota/drag/spun do not.
if anyone disagrees...ok. if i wanted you to like me i would have gotten an eg hatch and put slipstreams, amber corners, a duckbill, and a super low drop.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 404
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From: calhoun, ga, usa
Re: (mekanism)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a very similar process that I do as well. I have never used Comet for cleaning, wouldnt that introduce unwanted chemicals into the pores of the surface. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have never had any problems with it but I also use the dish soap
i have never had any problems with it but I also use the dish soap
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From: Alabama
Re: Re: (URBAN TANK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by URBAN TANK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And for the record I dont have ROTAS</TD></TR></TABLE>
Want a medal?
Want a medal?