((((((((----EG Hatch Thread----PT 2 )))))))))
looks great im in the stage of doing the 96 spec brake conversion but need to find my self a set of wheels first and realy want the 96 spec ones.. get some spacers on that bishhhh..
thanks! like ten pages ago i posted my hatch but it lookd diffrent..my icon pic is the way it used to bbe im change it tho
I'm getting my new tires put on today but they're not picture worthy. My hatch is going to look exactly the same for a long time, because I'm just saving for engine mods.
Haha, it took a while to find, it was the only Si that was somewhat clean in the area, and it was still 3 hours away!
Hey, do you guys burn a little oil high up in the powerband? I revved to about 8200rpm or so, and yes the engine was warmed up properly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cX9j-pGL_Q
Hey, do you guys burn a little oil high up in the powerband? I revved to about 8200rpm or so, and yes the engine was warmed up properly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cX9j-pGL_Q
The good thing about that retro fit kit is that One they have a lifetime warrenty, and Two, they come with the alignment tabs that make sure the projector is installed correctly, and level.
Haha, it took a while to find, it was the only Si that was somewhat clean in the area, and it was still 3 hours away!
Hey, do you guys burn a little oil high up in the powerband? I revved to about 8200rpm or so, and yes the engine was warmed up properly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cX9j-pGL_Q
Hey, do you guys burn a little oil high up in the powerband? I revved to about 8200rpm or so, and yes the engine was warmed up properly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cX9j-pGL_Q
I also heard the same thing from another friend of mine who is in his mid 40s and has built some pretty serious cars in his days.
A theory that a very well educated OG honda guy told me is that B-Series engines at high RPM create a lot of crank case pressure thus causing pressurized oil to force it's way through the rings and out through the exhaust valves. The best way to remedy the problem is to do a breather that vents directly out of the block. I don't know exactly how he did his, but his ITR motor has a lot of miles on it and still runs very very well and he says that breather is the reason his motor doesn't burn much oil.
I also heard the same thing from another friend of mine who is in his mid 40s and has built some pretty serious cars in his days.
I also heard the same thing from another friend of mine who is in his mid 40s and has built some pretty serious cars in his days.
Last edited by Rok_Stok; Oct 24, 2009 at 08:04 PM.
does anyone have ANYMORE pictures of this car?!?!?!?! pleaseeeeee i wanna see moar! https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1255454924
Finally pieced together my exhaust again. Skunk2 pipe, RS*R Exmag B-pipe, 5zigen axle back. Sounds pretty gravy!



One for fun.

I was surprised how this muffler was designed. It's straight-through, but it's not your conventional perforated core design. It has a solid core that has a gap near the inlet to let exhaust gas into the muffler material that way. I made a diagram, but I'll be posting it in the 5zigen thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2348833&page=8

Roomate took this one. We just use our little cheap cameras and as you can see I'm a noob at editing.




One for fun.

I was surprised how this muffler was designed. It's straight-through, but it's not your conventional perforated core design. It has a solid core that has a gap near the inlet to let exhaust gas into the muffler material that way. I made a diagram, but I'll be posting it in the 5zigen thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2348833&page=8

Roomate took this one. We just use our little cheap cameras and as you can see I'm a noob at editing.

2.how much your manifold\mid piping \ muffler setup cost !!??? thanks!!
1. I'm no scientist, but I know that you CAN have too big of exhaust diameter for naturally aspirated engines. You can put as big as you want on forced induction, bigger the better. But for NA engines, you want as little back pressure as possible while keeping the velocity of exhaust gas high. Despite what some people say, back pressure is never a good thing, it robs you of horsepower and if bad enough can reverse exhaust flow. For a stock B16, a 60mm exhaust system is plenty. You see a lot of K20 guys putting 3" exhaust on, that's because the engine (which has higher a compression ratio, bigger cams, more fuel, etc.) expels much more exhaust gas at high RPM than my B16. Here is a great thread to answer all your questions about exhaust size: https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/backpressure-vs-exhaust-velocity-explained-2077910/
2. I'm running the stock exhaust manifold, which has a 50mm collector (about 2"). Then I have a Skunk2 2.25" test pipe that was $110. The RS*R Exmag system was $620, but I sold the muffler section for $250, so the B-pipe is worth $370 (oh yeah and it's all 60mm, or 2.37"). The the 5zigen Fireball axle back cost me $74 shipped from eBay (used, and also 60mm). So I have a grand total of $554 wrapped up in my exhaust system, not including new gaskets, and I don't even have a header yet. But I have a lot of fun messing with my exhaust, so it's worth it. I think I have it right where I want it, until I get a header. There's no rasp or anything either, thanks to the RS*R b-pipe.
snapped a quick pic of my hatch and my dd... hoping to get a photoshoot in the fall here sometime soon while the weather is cooperating lol
I've see those before, but what are they, Work? They look aerodynamic and all, but you can't see your brakes. So I'm guessing you take them off from time to time to check the pads? I bet the brakes get hotter than normal.
theyre volk texas shotguns... i check my brakes every once in a while.. the brakes dont seem to get to hot, at least i cant tell anything via the pedal lol









