Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMLS4dr200whp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

true alright its just a still have bad wheel hop even with my hasport motor mounts and I am thinking that will be my next upgrade</TD></TR></TABLE>

wheel hop also translates all the nasty shock events to the drivetrain...axles, transmission, and whatever else take a beating during wheel hop.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMLS4dr200whp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have a turbo db but dont have a turbo timer, what I do I just wait 1-2 mins before I shut the car off pretty much depending on how hard I beat on the car </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my blow off is loud also and my turbo has no filter so its loud. Does anyone know why i should get a turbo timer. I have one built in my alarm but haven't used it yet since its not working right now. I just shut off the car. Is this really bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depending on the turbo, the turbines spin at over 100,000 rpm when under full boost. if you shut your engine off after a hard run, it takes a while for the 100,000rpm to come to a complete stop. if the turbine blades are still spinning and theres no oil pressure....uh oh on your turbo bearings (non ball bearing). the oil burns up and you need a turbo rebuild (extreme cases). either way, this is the main reason for a turbo timer, so even if u accidentally pull your key out after a hard run, u'll still have that "protection". however, if you stall or whatever, its that split second(s) when the turbo is still spinning without oil pressure that can really do the damage.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pretty much it starts to spool so soon and im at full boost by 5k. Im getting a little blow off happy since i just got it back. I might have to just start going back to driving my daily driver again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what gear? an 18G with a GSR should reach full boost (7-8psi) by 4000rpm or earlier in 3rd gear. you might have a boost leak.

qwk db8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JFG Kevin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Honestly...you dont wanna catch us JFG on the freeway..cause if you do anything wrong to one of us on the freeway...i'll box you in and [freak] with you...WARNING.. ...No joke cause we have done it b4...


You got the wrong guy buddy...that's qwk db8...

But never the less...THX..!!!... </TD></TR></TABLE>

coo coo i be on the look out for a bunch of ricer smashing on there d16s ...haha..yea kevins going for tha weak look...


Modified by qwk db8 at 12:25 PM 3/20/2008

onebadd4dr

my DB for sale.........

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2255463

Liquidgsr

well its set to 15psi so it reaches 10 or 15 psi depending on the the how the actuator will hold or not. 1st and 2nd it spins after 5k and 3rd it hits full boost at around 5k and drops after 5.5-6 from 15 to 10 and holds at 10. Its like a hard pulling till 5k or so and then a drop and your like huh. I like the pulling at 15psi lol

JFG Kevin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMLS4dr200whp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

omg kevin ur starting to scare me on ur first comment here and see kevin ur weak look is being adored by hondatech members </TD></TR></TABLE>

oohhh..no worries..if i see a fellow DB...it's all ......
But when this happen..a truck with a lift kit was on one of our asses....he then switch lines and cut him off fo no apparent reason..so we just had some fun with him...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qwk db8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

coo coo i be on the look out for a bunch of ricer smashing on there d16s ...haha..yea kevins going for tha weak look...

haha..things that i can pull away in 5th gear...=p


Modified by qwk db8 at 12:25 PM 3/20/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

qwk db8

i thought auto trannys didnt have a 5th gear you must mean overdrive...

Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well its set to 15psi so it reaches 10 or 15 psi depending on the the how the actuator will hold or not. 1st and 2nd it spins after 5k and 3rd it hits full boost at around 5k and drops after 5.5-6 from 15 to 10 and holds at 10. Its like a hard pulling till 5k or so and then a drop and your like huh. I like the pulling at 15psi lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

something is going on if its spiking that bad. perform a boost leak test. i have a feeling you're leaking boost somewhere.

5k is too high. even my LS hit 7psi by 4200. other 18G guys i talked to on HT were hitting 7psi by 3800 or earlier. I attributed the difference on my car to the stock 2" downpipe, 2.25" cat, and 2.25" exhaust.

on the other hand, the evo hits 22psi by 3800

but physically that 18G is pretty big compared to a stock evo 8/9 turbo.

JFG Kevin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qwk db8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought auto trannys didnt have a 5th gear you must mean overdrive... </TD></TR></TABLE>


yah..and you have to know when you can full throttle it..cause if you do it too early..it'll down shift to 4th..LOL...

Liquidgsr

Oh i was wrong it is around 4k not 5k that it hits full boost. The psi is set at 15 so thats why it goes up that it goes maybe 1 psi higher if that, but drops back down to 10psi after 5.5k. The actuator is messed up and it wont hold at 15psi so it falls to 10.

Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh i was wrong it is around 4k not 5k that it hits full boost. The psi is set at 15 so thats why it goes up that it goes maybe 1 psi higher if that, but drops back down to 10psi after 5.5k. The actuator is messed up and it wont hold at 15psi so it falls to 10.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh, set the controller to 10psi then. your fuel/ignition maps wont like 15psi anyway.

oh yeah, what MAP sensor are you using? please dont say stock (which is only good for 10psi anyway)

NZ-DB8R

Can anyone confirm that a DC2 ITR wing is different from a DB8 ITR wing in terms of fitment?

i.e they cannot be interchanged?

Thanks

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NZ-DB8R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone confirm that a DC2 ITR wing is different from a DB8 ITR wing in terms of fitment?

i.e they cannot be interchanged?

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are not interchangeable in terms of bolt on fitment.

I'm sure you could mount either one on a dc or db trunk lid, but it'll look "off".

trini-gsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMLS4dr200whp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have a turbo db8 but dont have a turbo timer, what I do I just wait 1-2 mins before I shut the car off pretty much depending on how hard I beat on the car </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, if you don't have a turbo timer, just let the car idle for a little while extra before shutting it off, maybe a minute or 2 if you were beating on it. that's what i do and i've had the same turbo (t3/t4) on my db8 for over 2 years (a good 50k miles or so). it's JUST now starting to burn/leak a little oil.

using synthetic oil is a good idea too, especially on a DD i think, the turbo puts a beating on the oil. synthetic lubricates better and is more heat resistant than regular oil, so its less likely to cake/burn up in your turbo. i figure all that equals longer turbo life...

hmongyaj87

hey since we are talking about turbo timer in here, i have a question. how come my hks turbo timer doesn't work on my 94 gsr but works on my cuz's 98 gsr. i'm using the plug-n-plag harness from ebay. does anyone else have this problem with there turbo timer? btw it just beeps on my car and the face turns on on my cuz's car.

AMLS4dr200whp

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spec R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wheel hop also translates all the nasty shock events to the drivetrain...axles, transmission, and whatever else take a beating during wheel hop.


Depending on the turbo, the turbines spin at over 100,000 rpm when under full boost. if you shut your engine off after a hard run, it takes a while for the 100,000rpm to come to a complete stop. if the turbine blades are still spinning and theres no oil pressure....uh oh on your turbo bearings (non ball bearing). the oil burns up and you need a turbo rebuild (extreme cases). either way, this is the main reason for a turbo timer, so even if u accidentally pull your key out after a hard run, u'll still have that "protection". however, if you stall or whatever, its that split second(s) when the turbo is still spinning without oil pressure that can really do the damage.

what gear? an 18G with a GSR should reach full boost (7-8psi) by 4000rpm or earlier in 3rd gear. you might have a boost leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>

dude you made a great point about turbo timers never realized that

Liquidgsr

I will find out if the tune is set for 15psi or 10psi. I don't know how to change the boost so i don't want to mess with it.

I rather not go to synthetic because its at 178k and it will start to leak...i think its still leaking a little from somewhere im not sure.

AMLS4dr200whp

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will find out if the tune is set for 15psi or 10psi. I don't know how to change the boost so i don't want to mess with it.

I rather not go to synthetic because its at 178k and it will start to leak...i think its still leaking a little from somewhere im not sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont really need synthetic just keep up on the oil changes earlier and check ur dipstick once in a while

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DualCamDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"I Want In"
Im Posting Again cause i Didnt get a # last time...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm still reviewing your post. I see you have a DB, and I see you seek to improve it. I'm just trying to figure out if you actually drive your db or is it a work in progress.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM DB7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">posted pics of my db7 , how do i know if im accepted to the squad and if so how do i get my number</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll see your name alongside a # on the member list. I'll be updating soon.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teggy182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just posting this cause everyone told me it couldn't be done. bike rack with visors</TD></TR></TABLE>

Congrats on your achievement. ..

....My question now is : What will those visors look like when the rack is off the car? Will they look just as they would if there was no rack up top? Or are they modified to the point where they wont look right without the rack?

Mikizzle

for the dudes with window visors, how do you guys set up the rubber flap attatched to the visors



do you guys have it set up like the beautiful drawing on the left or right? I have it set up on the left, but water seems to seep through and onto me, i tried to set it up like the one on the right but not all the flap seems to be positioned like that.

not sure if im making any sense to any of you but help me out

OnePointFive

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NZ-DB8R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone confirm that a DC2 ITR wing is different from a DB8 ITR wing in terms of fitment?

i.e they cannot be interchanged?

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

when i was shopping for mine, i was told that the bases were different. However since i don't have a DC2 ITR spoiler, i can't compare it to my DB8 ITR.

8520

More pics of db's

NZ-DB8R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OnePointFive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

when i was shopping for mine, i was told that the bases were different. However since i don't have a DC2 ITR spoiler, i can't compare it to my DB8 ITR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will wait for my mate to get back from school with his DC2R so I can compare with my DB8R

db8gsr_teg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OnePointFive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

when i was shopping for mine, i was told that the bases were different. However since i don't have a DC2 ITR spoiler, i can't compare it to my DB8 ITR.</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are different. when i had mine(DB8 ITR spoiler), i tried it on my cousin's DC4 and it is too long for them. you cannot not mount a DB8 ITR spoiler on the DC's.