<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike9571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If anypart of the seatbelt is broken take it to a acura dealershhip and they HAVE to fix it at no cost. Seat belts are lifetime warranty no matter who owns the car</TD></TR></TABLE>


Oh yeah, duhh, damn I forgot about that! Damn I shoulda did that today... damn. Won't have a day off til' tuesday! Grrr.

 

-rear bumper support with foam
-1993 b18a1 head
-stock springs
-palmy blue dash (air ducts gutted, no glove box, no vin tag)

Throw up whatever offers you want. Pickup only in SD.

PM me for more info.

 

someone please buy my car already

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike9571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If anypart of the seatbelt is broken take it to a acura dealershhip and they HAVE to fix it at no cost. Seat belts are lifetime warranty no matter who owns the car</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats only if the seatbelts have not been messed with. So if the actual motor is missing than they might say no. But, if the motor is just broken than they should fix it.

Never hurts to ask though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DATZ WEAKSAUCE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">someone please buy my car already </TD></TR></TABLE>

drive to toronto i'll buy it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA_Reza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drive to toronto i'll buy it</TD></TR></TABLE>

ill ship if u pay fees

 

well yeah, they have been tampered with, the motor was taken out

 

about the door panels, are you positive you got all the screws out ? check the one underneath the handle to pull the door shut, towards the top of the handle. its kinda hidden. it made me look at it for awhile but i got it eventually.

 

i got that one and it still wont come off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nevets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depends on the tuning. A good tune will make it almost as reliable as stock. Just dont expect anything over 300whp. I would shoot for lower than that though. Keep it conservative because when you get boost happy, KABOOM!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, you'll get 215-230 easy, all day. Just get good parts, don't skimp on quality labor and tune well. Maintain it, and you'll be good.

 

You guys are right about being as reliable as stock.My friend recently turboed his y7 with a y8 head and it made 213hp/171tq and he says it feels like it came from the factory that way.

 

yea

 

Ok fellas so I need your help with something.
After doing some research and not finding the answers I need I figured I'd get it from someone here. My motor is making some good power but I want to take it a step up with some ITB's. What I am trying to find out is how well Hondata works with ITB's or if anyone is running ITB's on a hondata setup.
Thanks for any helpful answers!

 

i believe but dont quote me the Hondata S300 is the only model that supports ITBs but i could be wrong check out there website, hondata.com. IS your motor even worthy of ITBs not talking **** but just wondering?? To tune em it is gonna be expensive. But if you got the funds and your motors ready for em then hell yeah go for it.

 

chrome and turboedit have ITB support

 

Well I do think if I were even asking this question that Yes my motor would be "worthy" and yes funds are not a problem being that this turd is the only nice thing I have. But thanks for the help so far.

 

Just wondering if anyone in here drives the Maroon DA that I saw at Capitol Raceway last night Props for traping @107

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DATZ WEAKSAUCE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ill ship if u pay fees </TD></TR></TABLE>

he can't even afford to buy jdm headlights, how is he going to buy a whole car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shynop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

he can't even afford to buy jdm headlights, how is he going to buy a whole car? </TD></TR></TABLE>

hehe funny, I had like 2 sets of jdm headlights ive sold for more than ur whole car

 

HELP!

went to change my oil, everything was going good untill i put the plug back in, it was gettin snug but not enough and then it got loose again, i then took it out to see if the plug was stripped. it wasnt but i went and bought a new washer/gasket to see if that would help, its didnt : (

so i then looked in oil pan at those threads an there kinda F'ed, umm i was wondering what my options are before i have to rip the oil pan off..

i was thinking..
- over sized drain plug ?
- some how re thread it ?

any help would be great, i really do wanna have to take the pan off but if i have to i will.

 

special drain plug that is oversized and bolt up to ur pan. than inside that one there is a smaller plug that u use to drain oil and.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 608 Gangsta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HELP!

went to change my oil, everything was going good untill i put the plug back in, it was gettin snug but not enough and then it got loose again, i then took it out to see if the plug was stripped. it wasnt but i went and bought a new washer/gasket to see if that would help, its didnt : (

so i then looked in oil pan at those threads an there kinda F'ed, umm i was wondering what my options are before i have to rip the oil pan off..

i was thinking..
- over sized drain plug ?
- some how re thread it ?

any help would be great, i really do wanna have to take the pan off but if i have to i will.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats kinda what happens when u dont change chrush washers and over tighten all the time but imo id just change out the pan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DATZ WEAKSAUCE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats kinda what happens when u dont change chrush washers and over tighten all the time but imo id just change out the pan </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya thats what pretty much happen, i never over tighten i just never changed the washer.. but imma take the pan off an what not

thanks Guys!

 

snap on makes a rethreading kit that works like a charm but if you dont have access to something of that sort id just pull the pan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Semi-FlatDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">snap on makes a rethreading kit that works like a charm but if you dont have access to something of that sort id just pull the pan </TD></TR></TABLE>

bet u the rethreading kit will cost more than a working oilpan.