Yup pretty standard stuff. Often the bare green wire is grounded to the outlet box if I can remember correctly. Not 100% sure on if thats by code. Thats odd that there is no proper light fixtures available. That being said the gauge wire off the ballasts is fairly small. I'd imagine cutting the cord and hard wiring would be pretty close to normal.

 

So got the garage somewhat organized for now. Bought some cheap shelving and hooks to get stuff situated for the time being.
This is how my weekend went, what about you guys?

 

This what I did

 

black and red are hot. black is not ground. bare or green is ground. white is neutral.

 

everyday i get closer to being reunited with my DA! one month to go before i am ripping on her once again.

 

my firewall ready to get welded in

 

Post some installed pics when it's welded in

 

agreed

 

dont be afraid to post pics next year if the welds crack.

a lot of people that shave the engine bay just stop postings close up pics when the welds crack. Hopefully they don't crack though.

 

alright guys well i know this is a long shot but any one parting out a DA? i need the drivers side quarter panel behind the door all i really need is from the door crease to the wheel well and only the body line part on the bottom i will include a pic..... i know i know long shot but why not ask and see


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Actually, green/bare copper is a bond to tie all the boxes together (it does go to ground though). Be sure to connect it, with out it should the plug or switch touch the side of the box it won't trip the breaker and can start a fire. Everything has to be bonded by code(CEC or NEC), in a light fixture, it will be up in the octagon box attached to a screw.
Plugs are labelled on the back so you know what goes where, make sure you've got the proper amperage plug for the wiring that is there (likely 14AWG or 15A).

 

it would be much safer and easier to do all the way back. you will have a huge weld and it will be next to impossible to make it look right. trust me my last car was like that when i bought it and i got another car because of it.

 

yea its a bolt in cage idk wat brand or anythong but it goes around the back seat its sick

 

has anyone got eg civic lowering spring and shocks in there da integra.

 

i have tein ss coil overs on mine that are for an eg. worked perfectly fine. only thing you gotta change is you have to use the eg front forks with them as well.

 

It's not the welds that crack when people shave/tuck. Welding has been the solution to cracking. The problem with cracking came up a lot in the beginning of the shaving/tucking fad when people didn't know what they were doing and were simply using a lot of body filler. It can be used for small things but the whole engine bay is structural and thus takes some abuse when driven, you can even see the front frame rails flex when you jack up your car. All this flexing causes the body filler to crack. The preferred method now is to fill all seams/holes with metal or just weld, grind it smooth, and then lay body filler over the top to fill in the small imperfections before paint. Same way you'd normally fix body panels since whenever you lay on bondo too thick you'll run into cracking eventually.

 

i use ek shocks. just had to trim 1/4" off rear shock bushings. fronts are a little tall so i cant go too low. unless i use extended top hats

 

I am. PM me.

 

 

^^ noice

 

Yeah buddy! Looks dope. Excited for you and your new home. DA looks so happy in there

 

thinking of doing a dc1 front end swap on my da integra
wat u think yes or no?

 

no! dont.

 

Thanks fellas! I was excited it didn't scrape at all getting up there! Still a pretty steep climb but got it!

 

Congrats Matt, teg is happy it has a garage now instead of a parking lot.