daaaamn i want another DA now.


anyone selling one cheap for the winter??? lol

 

I would sell my left nut before I sell my DA

Damn, page 158 is mine, cool


Modified by RalliartRsX at 5:45 AM 11/11/2005

 

BUMP

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChaseIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well thanks!!! I'm aware of their description of how it's better than the rest. I know a DC JDM 4-1 will make more power but for the price difference it's not worth me paying for the few extra horses. I'm pretty happy with 186whp with the mods I have so I aint worried bout it! But like always you have to be right. But hey it's all good and soon the DA will be pushing 200whp all motor w/ stock bottom end </TD></TR></TABLE>

You know that a DC will make more power, but others on here were saying otherwise. Personally, I don't think the price of the DC is worth the 3 extra HP either. I still don't have a header on my car....but I have one of those DC JDM 4-1 headers that has been sitting in my garage for almost 2 years. I would never pay retail for that...I paid $175 brand new, cheaper than the Megan. Who knows, maybe I'll sell it and buy a generic header and make some $$$.

I don't always have to be right....but who wants to be wrong? I'm not doing this to prove anyone wrong. I'm doing this so people will actually learn things about headers and how they free up horsepower. True information &gt; hearsay.

I can't hear your voice over the internet, but you sound spiteful. I'm happy for you and your 186 WHP. Good luck making 200. What are the plans to make that much power?

 

i posted this in the integra forum but thought i might get a faster answer here so here it is.i'm trying to remove the original 3 piece headlamps but can't seem to find the last screw or bolt.i've removed the 3 top ones,the side one,and of course the side marker.it's almost out but can't find the last one,tried to search but it said the search function was down.so any help appreciated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghg78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i posted this in the integra forum but thought i might get a faster answer here so here it is.i'm trying to remove the original 3 piece headlamps but can't seem to find the last screw or bolt.i've removed the 3 top ones,the side one,and of course the side marker.it's almost out but can't find the last one,tried to search but it said the search function was down.so any help appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have to remove the front bumper. There are metal tabs on the bottom of the headlights that bolt to the car. If you don't know how to remove the front bumper let me know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kNOwLedGeDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know that a DC will make more power, but others on here were saying otherwise. Personally, I don't think the price of the DC is worth the 3 extra HP either. I still don't have a header on my car....but I have one of those DC JDM 4-1 headers that has been sitting in my garage for almost 2 years. I would never pay retail for that...I paid $175 brand new, cheaper than the Megan. Who knows, maybe I'll sell it and buy a generic header and make some $$$.

I don't always have to be right....but who wants to be wrong? I'm not doing this to prove anyone wrong. I'm doing this so people will actually learn things about headers and how they free up horsepower. True information &gt; hearsay.

I can't hear your voice over the internet, but you sound spiteful. I'm happy for you and your 186 WHP. Good luck making 200. What are the plans to make that much power?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not tryin to be spiteful. I know we got into it before so that's why I sounded the way I did, but i'm not tryin to get into another e-argument, nor am I trying to boast about the horsepower my car made. I was just sayin for the mods that I have and the power it did make = me happy . About making 200whp, I have a GSR head, ported/polished, 6 angle valve job, .5" oversized valves, and I still need some other things like "cough" cams and some other things as far as fuel goes. I figure somewhere close to 200 but who really knows. I don't like to bench race.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChaseIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm not tryin to be spiteful. I know we got into it before so that's why I sounded the way I did, but i'm not tryin to get into another e-argument, nor am I trying to boast about the horsepower my car made. I was just sayin for the mods that I have and the power it did make = me happy . About making 200whp, I have a GSR head, ported/polished, 6 angle valve job, .5" oversized valves, and I still need some other things like "cough" cams and some other things as far as fuel goes. I figure somewhere close to 200 but who really knows. I don't like to bench race.</TD></TR></TABLE>


6 angle valve job is a bad thing, those oversized valves arent helping you without a bump in compression

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by temp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6 angle valve job is a bad thing, those oversized valves arent helping you without a bump in compression</TD></TR></TABLE>

Explain how the valvejob is bad?!? The valves are not gonna hurt with 10.6:1, but as we know it could benefit from more compression

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChaseIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Explain how the valvejob is bad?!? The valves are not gonna hurt with 10.6:1, but as we know it could benefit from more compression</TD></TR></TABLE>


as was explained to me by a master tech at a machine shop, you can only cut your valves at 3 angles at most, anything beyond that has to go onto the head or the face of the valve (i cant remember what he ment by this, he showed me a head with a 30843209584320985430985094385230 angle valve job though) and you can actually have blowby from this

 

AS far as I know it's a six angle valvejob, but i'm not certain. The head was done by the same guy who builds Chuck Seitsinger's motors from Alternative Motorsports, 9 second Civic so I have no doubt this head is good for some power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChaseIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm not tryin to be spiteful. I know we got into it before so that's why I sounded the way I did, but i'm not tryin to get into another e-argument, nor am I trying to boast about the horsepower my car made. I was just sayin for the mods that I have and the power it did make = me happy . About making 200whp, I have a GSR head, ported/polished, 6 angle valve job, .5" oversized valves, and I still need some other things like "cough" cams and some other things as far as fuel goes. I figure somewhere close to 200 but who really knows. I don't like to bench race.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's all good.

While the head is off the car (if it is off the car) I will recommend a couple parts to get:

Get one of those plastic intake manifold gaskets. Hondata was the original, but there are planty of other less expensive brands out there. They reduce heat soak into your intake manifold. In a situation where your engine will get hot like the drag strip, this little advantage will never hurt.

Also, your JDM B18C has 10.6:1 compression. Look into a thinner head gasket to go along with the cams you are going to get. Mugen, Spoon, and Toda all make good head gaskets to bump compression. The Mugen and Spoon will only uo compression .2-.3, But Toda offers very thin gaskets to substantially increase compression.

Do you have a stock throttle body on the car? Bigger camshafts love more air. You can make your stock 60MM TB 64mm. http://www.maxbore.com .

You probably already know this stuff, but I t won't hurt to help.

 

Yes, the head is offthe car. It's my spare one, now built one! I still need a lot of little things before it's going to be put on. I'm still considering putting in JDM ITR pistons while we're at it, but regardless i'm still using stock headgasket.

 

thin head gasket + lumpy cams = valves hit pistons, dont do it the ghetto way, do it the right way kthanx

 

jusss got the car last week..got it bone stock clean title 91. ..clean interior n exterior

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jayTODApee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


jusss got the car last week..got it bone stock clean title 91. ..clean interior n exterior </TD></TR></TABLE>


psst.....somethings wrong with your license plate

 

JDM B18C 98 spec.R

11.1:1 compression

USDM B18C5

10.6:1 compression

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by temp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


psst.....somethings wrong with your license plate </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha watz wrong wid it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by temp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thin head gasket + lumpy cams = valves hit pistons, dont do it the ghetto way, do it the right way kthanx</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whatever you say buddy..... Mugen, Spoon, and Toda don't know what they're doing right? Toda makes some of the lumpyest cams and the thinnest gaskets, and their engines don't have valve to piston contact.

I mean expletive, if you can put CTR B16B (PCT) pistons in a B16A and not have the pistons hit the valves, an .025mm thinner headgasket isn't going to do ****. Most race cars use stock gaskets and mill their heads, but the thin head gasket is a less permanent solution.

You obviously don't know what you're talking about...so you should shut up. I tried to say that as nice as possible.

 

car looks clean man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kNOwLedGeDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Whatever you say buddy..... Mugen, Spoon, and Toda don't know what they're doing right? Toda makes some of the lumpyest cams and the thinnest gaskets, and their engines don't have valve to piston contact.

I mean expletive, if you can put CTR B16B (PCT) pistons in a B16A and not have the pistons hit the valves, an .025mm thinner headgasket isn't going to do ****. Most race cars use stock gaskets and mill their heads, but the thin head gasket is a less permanent solution.

You obviously don't know what you're talking about...so you should shut up. I tried to say that as nice as possible. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, ok lets take this from you here.....toda is the ONLY mfg out of the ones you listed that actually makes lumpy cams, mugen and spoon both dont make cams much more aggressive then skunk 2 stage 1 cams. and .25mm makes a WORLD of difference when your clearances are fractions of an inch. you can put b16b pistons in a b16a block with STOCK cams and not hit valves to pistons, i guarantee you that once you get your cams you get cam gears to ADVANCE THE ******* INTAKE, thinner headgasket on top of that your valves slape your pistons, fact of life.

 

There are many factors out there that affect valve to piston clearance but with the .5" oversized valves in the head I have and the M22x Rocket cams I plan to get, i'm gonna play it safe and go with the stock headgasket, just my preference!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChaseIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are many factors out there that affect valve to piston clearance but with the .5" oversized valves in the head I have and the M22x Rocket cams I plan to get, i'm gonna play it safe and go with the stock headgasket, just my preference!</TD></TR></TABLE>

good choice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by temp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wow, ok lets take this from you here.....toda is the ONLY mfg out of the ones you listed that actually makes lumpy cams, mugen and spoon both dont make cams much more aggressive then skunk 2 stage 1 cams. and .25mm makes a WORLD of difference when your clearances are fractions of an inch. you can put b16b pistons in a b16a block with STOCK cams and not hit valves to pistons, i guarantee you that once you get your cams you get cam gears to ADVANCE THE ******* INTAKE, thinner headgasket on top of that your valves slape your pistons, fact of life.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1.Toda may be the only out of the three that makes lumpy cams, but the Mugen and Spoon cams that are not released to the public get much more aggressive than Skunk2 stage 1.

2. .25mm does make a world of difference...TOO BAD I TYPED .025mm. .25mm is outrageous. .025mm is the standard thickness milled off of cylinder heads when trying to bump up compression.

3. I had a friend that built the B16A2 in his 00 EM1. CTR pistons in it, running LUMPY *** JUN Type III camshafts, and stock ITR valves. Never had a problem with clearances. Any smart person will clay the engine to check piston to valve clearances first anyway...

4. "Fact of life" my ***. You still don't know what you're talking about. A thin head hasket will not make your pistons hit your valves. Especially in ChaseIntegra's engine, which will be using P72-00 or P73-00 pistons, no matter what cams he is using (if he is using stock sized valves). Shut up and stop giving people FALSE tech advice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChaseIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are many factors out there that affect valve to piston clearance but with the .5" oversized valves in the head I have and the M22x Rocket cams I plan to get, i'm gonna play it safe and go with the stock headgasket, just my preference!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not a bad idea with oversized valves.