What the frick is a DA?

Double ****?

 

this thread was full of lol tonight, awesome! can always use a good laugh. i gotta chime in on the 92's....i think they lookin freakin sweet on certain cars. other cars, not so much. i'd rock a set. but, everyone is probably right about becoming the new slip.

 

I don't really see anything expensive on there, but maybe the Type R trans, just sayin...

 

I might work on my acura integra tomorrow

 

What are you going to do to it?

 

lol @ the 6k DA

Enkei 92 are already the new slip

 

well he just might get 6k in ky you never know i know in the ny nj pa area he would get maybe 3500 for it tops. but its hard selling hondas for big money in this area unless it has a k swap and even then everyone will lowball you

 

I wouldnt doubt it, sold it with 270k miles on it still running strong besides the bad wheel bearing that went with it.

I bought it with just under 21k miles. Burnt oil, took it in. Service advisor bs'd me, put a band-aid on and gave me run around. Came back asked for previous maintenance records, turns out about a month or 2 before i bought the car the p.o brought it in for service and it had misfires in 2 cylinders and a burnt valve, i'm guessing he got rid of it before any more damage was done and i'm the sucker that got stuck with a turd. CPO my ***. I found another thread on 8thgenciv where the op had similar issues. It's still at Honda World but they're trying to blame negligence on me for running it with no oil. Which i have receipts for.

Because Honda will try to make a dime on any honest customer probably.

Probably, which wasn't the case.

 

Well i still love u even if ur a bad honda owner jk

 

Lol, thanks Leo.


Full homo please?

 

there has actually been alot of problems with the newer style hondas newerstyle meaning k-series. not to bash on the k-series but to me they dont hold up to the honda standard of quality of the past. a buddy of mine who is a honda tech already had to replace his steering rack on a 06 honda accord a few months ago and it had just over 50k on it

 

Huh? I are confused.

I had Super Advans for the car but sold them

 

start putting the bay back together

 

Hows it going everyone, figured i would post up my DA. Been working on its wire/brake/fuel tuck for nearly two months, just about done and should have her fired up this evening.

 

wow, thats clean!

 

 

You get a LOT more for your money if you buy Jon's car: http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...iva-Blue-Pearl)

 

Yeah that's something worth the money and it's well built!!! A car with bs parts put together does not equate to being worth 6k.

 

i disagree. other than my ksport coilovers i think my car is better than that one. i know this thread is loaded with people that are into racing, our area out here doesnt really have that scene. we just drive our cars around. that one might be a better track car than mine but i wouldnt say my car is built with a bunch of thrown together bs either.

 

Definitely one of the nicer bays I've seen recently, although I suspect that in person it might not have the same effect. What did you use to paint the engine bay? I can't tell if it's just rattle can or if it's actually a high quality automotive paint but in a matte finish opposed to the standard gloss.

Not a fan of the fake braided hose stuff or those "beauty washers" (not picking on you, I just hate that stuff on anyones car) though, and there's a worm drive hose clamp I see which is another pet peeve of mine. But it looks like you paid more attention to detail than you see w/ most people's bays. Also, is the block painted, dirty, or just dark in the pic? Something about it just looks "off" but it's probably the pic.

My only other suggestions:
- polished vtec solenoid cap
- ITR oil cap
- a different radiator cap
- new OEM dipstick
- and if theres any way to fit an OEM brake fluid reservoir on there I would, that one stick out like sore thumb to me (but I like OEM looking parts)

 

Thanks for the feedback.

To answer the questions, the paint is a satin finish so the finish in the picture shows rather true to that in real life. I do want to redo the paint, some areas are better than others.

The block is not painted, its also not shiny clean, this will be addressed when I pull it hopefully next year.

As for the worm drives, I hate them too, I had to use them on the two heater core lines, I wasn't able to fit the t-bolt clamps in there.

For the brake master res, I am running a custom booster delete and Wilwood master cylinder, the OEM reservoir physically doesn't fit.

For the little bits, the ITR cap is in my Christmas stocking (lol), I agree on the dipstick just haven't gotten around to that yet, and the radiator cap & radiator for that matter may be going away as I am looking into tucking the radiator. I like the beauty washers, I do understand they are not everyone's cup of tea. I'm thinking of getting the solenoid coated gold of some sorts.

Lots of things still to do, this was my first time ever tucking wires. fuel or brake lines so I have learned many things I would do different.

Adam

 

The seam sealer on the frame rails screwed us over. They straight up look like *** imo. Next time around, excessive time will be spent to make sure they look perfect. This was entirely a "hey let's see what we can do" kind of enterprise.

What would you recommend in lieu of a worm drive on those coolant lines that run to the heater core? They are too large for a fuel injector clamp, and too small for a t-bolt.

The block is dirty, it has deep stains from having 250k miles and over 20 years of service on the clock. We did what we could, but without pulling the motor entirely and tanking/blasting it, the stains just won't come out. I hit that bish with simple green, marine clean, wire wheel, grinding wheel, sandpaper, etc, etc....lol, nothing would clean it up.

 

Yes, especially the transmissions too!

LOL, just a joke about you being from Canada, eh!

LoL, not this whole "well built" **** again!

Don't really see the big deal with the car in that link. Def not worth 5k though.

 

How did they screw you up? Personally I don't like "shaved" bays so the look of seam sealer is fine w/ me. I have no problems w/ the natural seams and contours that came from the factory.

I'd use the OEM style clamps. This is my preferred style of clamp - again, I like OEM stuff. I've seen these clamps available in various colors, so you could even find some black ones so they don't stand out. Or if you want to get fancy you can polish them or better yet chrome them.

Sounds ghetto, but spray paint works well. And no, I'm not talking about alumablast or painting the block as a whole. Just touch up. After the aluminum is nice and clean you can touch up any blemishes by spraying chrome (or silver) spray paint onto a paper towel and then wipe that towel on the metal. This way you get only a very very slight coat of paint, and really it only sticks down in to the nooks and crannies and doesn't look painted at all. But yeah, with the motor in the car this is still not an easy task and it might have not been very easy to get full coverage which would be needed w/ a block that dirty.

 

Well, it's the truth. It's easy to distinguish between a well built car and one that is not so.

A well built car is one that has a purpose in mind and pays attention to all critical aspects of the car each as its own system. Notice that the car in the link has improved the entire braking system (larger rotors, lines, calipers, pads, fluid, etc.), transmission/shifter system (built transmission, QUALITY LSD, ITR linkage, etc), exhaust system, light wheels with good tires, suspension & chassis bracing, and more. Each system is complete (aside from having huge amounts of power that some folks are looking for).

While "well built" may seem subjective, it's pretty cut & dried.