~DA SQUAD Version 2.0~
as far as tuning its to much u cant have or have to have just seems to be to picky with what and who they wanna tune or tune for plus there prices are almost twice as much plus i dont think they sell chiped ecus thats a plus in my book for j-k because i need a ecu and they sell them chipped oppose to having to buy a ecu and then get it chipped for the price of there chipped ecus other people selling non chipped ecus
my car dosent have a check engine light and i never took it to be tuned heck i didnt even put my engine in yet lol im going off just there website just how there wording on the site made me feel funny about them like they dont even want u to call them to ask any question and they tell u that on there site maybe i dont wanna just read maybe i need to speak to someone for me to be fully understanding of what i need dont need want and dont want
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 1
From: Mashing in the big chainring in LOS ANGELES, CA
Willing to sell it pretty cheap, like around $100. PM me if interested.
Ok now my car is acting up when its cold it will bog down and miss pretty bad but if i get on it its all good. I pulled the wires to check for oil in the plugg tubes and i only found a little bit in #3. Also when the car reaches full temp it pretty much goes away and is only a little present ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT
so far i have replaced these
plugs
wires
coil
cap & rotor
tps
so far i have replaced these
plugs
wires
coil
cap & rotor
tps
Yes but they have those guidelines so ppl do not show up with parts falling off or CELS. From the tuners standpoint it is really to look out for their own good. If someones car blows up on the dyno that person is going to blame the tuner right away.
If they specify certain parameters it further ensures that both parties get what they want.
If they specify certain parameters it further ensures that both parties get what they want.
Ok now my car is acting up when its cold it will bog down and miss pretty bad but if i get on it its all good. I pulled the wires to check for oil in the plugg tubes and i only found a little bit in #3. Also when the car reaches full temp it pretty much goes away and is only a little present ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT
so far i have replaced these
plugs
wires
coil
cap & rotor
tps
so far i have replaced these
plugs
wires
coil
cap & rotor
tps
When john tunes cars they need to be about up to par...No cells or anything like that..Evans is a great tuner, one of the best thats why his prices are so much...He is a power tuner......John is a awesome tuner as well, just hasnt been around as long as jeff...
Either one would be a great choice, I stick with john because hes my friend a great guy, and if I ever have any questions/problems he helps me out
Either one would be a great choice, I stick with john because hes my friend a great guy, and if I ever have any questions/problems he helps me out
Just found this pic of the dyno day at my friends shop on sat.......my car to the right with the new wheels, needs to be a little lower but I think it looks good
how low u wanna be i always thought my car was too low i really need to make sure i get 205/45/16 tires instead of 205/40 next time the 40's make my wheels look to small and i have to slam the car to get it to look decent i wish i can sell the tires they are brand new only been on the car for about a month now
Ya I made that mistake before with 40 series tires on 16s lol......Tell you the truth I really dont want to go lower for the fact the full-race intercooler is hanging down low dont want to hit it...But my traction bar is lower and my down pipe ever more...I have about an inch wheel gap I want to tuck the tires Ill be happy lol, we have da's man they have to be slammed to look good
lol yeah i love the way my da looks slammed but it rides so much better how i have it right now its about 1/2 in above my tire my lsd is to adgressive to be slammed dont wanna bind a cv joint lol plus i already ripped my exhaust off
Ok now my car is acting up when its cold it will bog down and miss pretty bad but if i get on it its all good. I pulled the wires to check for oil in the plugg tubes and i only found a little bit in #3. Also when the car reaches full temp it pretty much goes away and is only a little present ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT
so far i have replaced these
plugs
wires
coil
cap & rotor
tps
so far i have replaced these
plugs
wires
coil
cap & rotor
tps
If you haven't changed your O2 sensor, that may cause bad idling.
Check or Replace the PCV valve, its cheap enough.
You may possibly want to replace the Main Fuel Relay that sits under the dash on the drivers side. Honda Dealership sells them cheaper (you can indicate that you have a 1990-91 Honda Civic EX). (I'll send you mine if you need it....let me know Use it as a check. I think mine is still good).
The ultimate last item could be the distributor altogether. If you have a friend who can let you borrow theirs for testing, see if that relieves all of your problems.
Or even clean your IACV.
If your throwing a code let us know.
Also retry to set your idle. You'll have to warm the engine, then reach behind the IM and unplug the IACV connector. You can reach it with a long standard screwdriver. You will definitely see your CEL light go on. That's good. Adjust your idle. Check your timing as well. you will have to short the connector thats just underneath the dash on the passenger side. once you've corrected the timing and idle. unplug the shorted connector in the car on psgr. shut off your car. replug the connector behind the IM and finally clear the code by removing the 10amp fuse for the hazard...which also resets the ECU.
time for some rogain! lol j/k
car looks good man. some cool pics too
some major changes taking place in my build thread...come check it out! link's in my signature...
car looks good man. some cool pics too
some major changes taking place in my build thread...come check it out! link's in my signature...
Last edited by OldSkoolDa91; May 12, 2009 at 12:55 PM.








