Well I replaced the coil, but I haven't gotten on it a lot, but when I do it didn't go too much faster. All the new ignition things are helping a little bit, but not by much. Hopefully the wastegate will fix something. Because it's only held on by three bolts, not four. And there is no gasket on the end that attaches to the dumptube so there is an exhaust leak. But after the wastegate comes in and if it still doesn't do anything we can check the timing belt. If that isn't fucked up then the dumptube is getting changed around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how close to the turbo was your dump tube dumping? I suspect that this is his problem because he sais that when he has switched to open loop it ran drastically different. His is actually dumping a few inches off of the turbo outlet. Its super close. </TD></TR></TABLE>

mine wasn't near the turbo inlet...it was on the other side of the manifold but it literally dumped back into the DP after an inch and that was causing massive exhaust backup/restriction

 

And you said changing that up freed up 100whp and 80 lbs of torque? Looks like I'm going to be busy this weekend getting my dumptube and downpipe fixed.

 

yeah man do it.. run it open atmosphere if you are looking for the most power gains.

 

Yea but then there is a noise problem, and when I come home from work at night my parents and neighbors probably wouldn't like that.

 

well it only opens when you hit full boost. i don't think the WG will be opening when you pull up the drive way... yanno what i mean

 

actually, thats untrue. your wastegate opens progressively. THats why people get boost controllers, the ball and spring blocks air pressure until the spring rate overcomes, allowing the wastegate to open more suddenly = less turbo lag.

 

I'll try it out and see how it goes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s1ngle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually, thats untrue. your wastegate opens progressively. THats why people get boost controllers, the ball and spring blocks air pressure until the spring rate overcomes, allowing the wastegate to open more suddenly = less turbo lag.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well yeah yanno what i mean, i assumed he had a boost controller. either way, you shouldn't have a noise problem when in vacuum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s1ngle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually, thats untrue. your wastegate opens progressively. THats why people get boost controllers, the ball and spring blocks air pressure until the spring rate overcomes, allowing the wastegate to open more suddenly = less turbo lag.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it doesn't open that progressivly. When you are driving in vacuum you won't hear it at all.

 

lol, yeah, it opens progressively under boost, when the vacuum line is connected to a vacuum/boost source. I think i covered it all there. OH yeah and when the wastegate is connected to the manifold.

sorry, i wasnt even commenting on the noise issue. i was just correcting that one statement


Modified by s1ngle at 5:25 AM 6/8/2005

 

this post for SOHC_MShue

h22a with 7psi ign map low speed




h22a with 7psi ign map high speed



h22a stock low speed ign map



h22a stock high speed ign map

 

Replaced wastegate and it's still not running like it should. I don't know I guess I'll be taking the downpipe out and getting that fixed. I'm out of ideas.

 

do it. just try cutting the wastegate dump off the downpipe, run open dump, and see what happens.

 

Did you replace the coil yet? My bets are still on the dumptube.

 

Yea, replaced the coil. We need to check to make sure the random misfires are fixed now. It's running perfect other than it's not making the power. I think I'm calling Anthony soon to see when I can come by and get the dump redone.

 

cool

 

are you just gonna run open dump or what?

 

i think all thats left for you to do now is run open dump and get it retuned. too bad your in richmond, woulda suggested InlinePro for dyno tuning.

 

did you get this figured out yet?

 

Not yet, I'm trying to get the dumptube situation taken car of. But I am just going to run open dump. I'm going to run it next to the downpipe and out the bottom of the car.

 

so did you fix it yet?

 

make sure open dump is clear AWAY from turbo oil feed line, as it will melt the rubber even through the stainless steel..

i suggest getting a 6ft line from mcmaster car for $25 if you suffer from this problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DLB1994 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this post for SOHC_MShue


h22a with 7psi ign map high speed



</TD></TR></TABLE>

this map looks really dangerous, you shouldn't be over 24 degrees above 5 psi. Well at least for a basemap. With race gas on a dyno it might be a different story.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by salt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this map looks really dangerous, you shouldn't be over 24 degrees above 5 psi. Well at least for a basemap. With race gas on a dyno it might be a different story.</TD></TR></TABLE>

for a bore of a h block thats not alot if it was a b block its another story , but its just a hondata base map not a tuned map

**** i run 27 degress with 110 octane at 20psi and 25 degress at 25psi and 22 at 30psi its a 88mm h23 the bigger bore the more timing the engine will take tuners know that