actually I've seen this on manual tensioner h22's too

 

Yea a friend of mine had one with an auto tensioner and his timing belt ended up breaking out of nowhere one day...luckily no valves were damaged.

 

My timing belt was just replaceed a little over a year ago when the tensioner went out and the the belt snapped. It's a common problem on the 5th gens it seems.

 

what you never told me your belt snapped. Are you sure nothing bent?

 

I dunno, it snapped back when I first got the car in...May of last year. And it's been running fine since then I guess.

 

leakdown test time, hopefully your motor is ok bud.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9sech22civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">leakdown test time, hopefully your motor is ok bud. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well he said it ran as strong as any normal prelude when it was na so i'm guessing it was alright. Unfortunately most of the time snapping the timing belt ends up with bent valves

 

Where are you reading boost from? The compressor side of the turbo or a vacuum line from the intake manifold...

I have talked with people that have their boost gauge hooked up to the compressor, which will show *PSI because the turbo is spooling and making the boost. But they have a leak in the charge pipes somewhere and the intake is only seeing 1-3 PSI of it.

Probably not it and you probably already checked it, but you never know.

Jesse @ Turbo Kits.com

 

did you ever check the timing at idle w/ a timing light?

i had an ef converted to obd1 and the graph looked jagged like that and it turned out the actual timing was way retarded.

put a timing light on it and see where it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scttydb411 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you ever check the timing at idle w/ a timing light?

i had an ef converted to obd1 and the graph looked jagged like that and it turned out the actual timing was way retarded.

put a timing light on it and see where it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes i've checked it and its dead on. You actually can't even adjust the distributor on that gen prelude anyways.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo-kits-com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where are you reading boost from? The compressor side of the turbo or a vacuum line from the intake manifold...

I have talked with people that have their boost gauge hooked up to the compressor, which will show *PSI because the turbo is spooling and making the boost. But they have a leak in the charge pipes somewhere and the intake is only seeing 1-3 PSI of it.

Probably not it and you probably already checked it, but you never know.

Jesse @ Turbo Kits.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
its being read from the intake manifold.

 

Cam timing was fine

 

is this an interference engine? i'm assuming it is.... youd notice if you had bent valves, the car would hardly run, if at all.

 

Yea the next step is to check shaft play, I checked it once before and it moved a little up and down. But I don't know how much is too much. I got the turbo kit for christmas and it was an ebay kit. So the turbo might be ****. I got it from these guys...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WD7V

But my kit came with a SSAUTOCHROME manifold and no intercooler. And so far everything else on the kit has had to be replaced.

 

BUMP for ANY more ideas. I don't know I'm getting tired of this. It pulls pretty good in first and second then just doesn't.

 

are you running open dump?

 

We tried and it didn't make any difference.

 

Are you sure the open dump didn't make a difference? That wastegate being routed in right after the turbine is HORRIBLE for turbulence. That'll really cause the post turbine pressure to go way up, making the pre-turbine pressure go up even more than the increase in post turbine pressure(turbines work off a pressure ratio, so it multiplies the pressure increase across the turbine).

Whoever the guy from homemadeturbo.com that said it doesn't make a bit of difference what happens after the turbo is flat out wrong and has no idea what he's talking about.

You want the wastegate flow to blend smoothly with the turbine exhaust, preferably about a foot or more away from the turbine outlet. Smoothly in this case meaning the angle should be LESS than 20* going into the pipe, if not closer to 10* - you have a 90* angle there, which is like putting a wall right past the turbine.

 

thats what i thought too...although we tried flipping it around so it was an open dump and it didn't make any difference at all. The car felt just as bad.

 

have you done a compression test?

 

yes. 220 220 220 200 is what is showed. I don't trust my gauge though because it gave me wacky readings back to back on my motor.

 

thats really weird. is his turbo shot?

did you eliminate all ignition problems?

 

The turbo seems fine, there is no shaft play. And we have replaced almost everything ignition wise except for the cap I think.

 

do h22's have knock sensors?

 

replace the cap. can't hurt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boonacka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do h22's have knock sensors? </TD></TR></TABLE> yes they do. atleast the one I've worked on had one.