gaundy22

Sorry if this is a newb question but if im hitting boost cut at 13.5 psi so im guessing i have a 4.5psi wastegate springbecause they hold 3xs there pressure. But my question is i wana get a new tial bov and im not sure what size spring i should get in it if i dont wana hit boost cut earlier. Thanks in advance for any help guys. Im not like other ppl and jus assume i know everything i wana learn as much as i can but like i said much appreiciated for any help

BigBerz

Can't tell if serious......


A 4.5psi spring should only let 4.5psi happen. If your hitting boost cut at 13.5 psi with a 4.5psi spring then your wastegate isn't working. The stock honda MAF is probably why your hitting boost cut.
The spring in your BOV ..... lawl

Berz out.

Geis

Just take off the blow off wastegate valve :^)

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Wow, so you just jumped out of a helicopter with skis attached to your feet, without ever going down a bunny slope. Do you have any clue what hardware you have right now? Did you actually assemble this car, or did you break rule #1 and buy another man's project? There's entirely too much you aren't telling us for us to even begin helping you. Given your posting history, I'm also not entirely convinced you aren't a troll.

Stop fiddling with whatever you fiddled with before you had this problem, and take it back to your tuner so they can fix whatever you screwed with.

Geis

Wastegates and bovs are overrated anyways, you technically don't need either

BigBerz

Agreed. Didn't OP ask about a "Bleeder valve" ie. manual boost controller before?

Berz out.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Oh, I see it's THAT kinda night

gaundy22

I know what i have and yes i did buy the car with everything on it. Its a 09 civic si with a ultimate racing turbocharger kit the turbo is a precision 5857 with with a 44mm tial wastegate. And i meant to say 14.5 psi spring. I jus got the car in the summer it was in a accident and i fixed it up and in the summer im putting it back on the road. Im new to the forced induction scene and was looking at buying a new bov and unsure which 1 to get thats why i asked because theres such a selection.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You already have a Tial BOV and WG, if you actually have that kit. Don't worry about replacing them. If you know that you have a 14.5 PSI spring, but you're hitting boost cut at 13.5 PSI all of the sudden, then with all of your previous threads, it's a very safe bet that you've changed something and you aren't telling us. Exactly what did you change between when it was last properly working and when it started acting up?

gaundy22

See thats it i dont have a tial bov i said i want to get 1 because i have some cheap turbo smart bov on there and i think thats the boost cut proble. Thanks Nota for answering without attitude i know the bov stops the pressure from going back to the turbine and causing lag i just dont understand the spring pressure on them. Is it safe to go with a bigger spring. Because a wastegate and boost control solenoid would vent pressure before to much could build up.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

No, it's not what's causing your boost cut problem, and Turbosmart is a decent brand. No, you don't want a "bigger" spring. The lowest the boost can go is the spring. A "bigger" spring would solve nothing. If anything, you would use a smaller spring and an electronic boost controller tied into your ECU, but if this is a recent problem and the car was running fine, then you need to figure out what's causing the problem, not just blindly throw parts at it.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Sorry for the other member being a dick


What you mean when you say " springbecause they hold 3xs there pressure"

Thats when using an ebc

Your blow off valve isnt the problem. Something is allowing your psi to go past the "safe point" or "boost cut" a tuner will tune your motor to a point. Lets say 10 psi then set your boost cut one or 2 psi above that with added fuel and retard timing to keep it safe.

Lets start with basic info

What psi was the motor tuned to?
How long ago?
Think about if weather change is causing the issue? Colder weather could cause this.

If you can contact the tuner and get more info about that would help everyone help you.

If you want a tial blow off valve that perfectly fine. Its your car. No reason not to get one and sell the one you have. Wether you like the look of it or sound. Doesnt matter this is your car.

Take a look at this chart for spring info

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

1) Turbosmart is very high quality...changing solved nothing as NAR stated.

2) you can get an electronic boost controller, but doesn't have to be tied into the ECU, not by long shot.

3) sounds like something physical that may have altered the tune for boost cut may have occurred.. Time for a list of what you changed to repair the car from its accident

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

The ebc can be tied into the ecu and makes tuning boost easy.

At least on a real ems

gaundy22

I wanna say thanks to all you guys for all the yelp you gave me seriously it was all good info like i said earlier im new to turbos but not new to wrenchin on cars. And also ty for letting me know turbosmart bovs are good quality. But we found the problem it was in the tune the boost control solenoid was makin boost cut hit earl. My buddys awesome at that hondata stuff i have no idea haha. But thanks alot guys.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I'm running Haltech and STILL won't use the integrate boost control. For the type of racing that's being used, it's utterly useless without a lot of headache. Each track has its own nuances as to where boost needs to be and HOW it needs to be stablized. No time for a laptop or tablet to make immediate changes. This is why I stay with the GReddy Profec and HKS EVC S. Plus, they have no boost "gain" feature that I need.

This is what is called "independent" electronic boost control, which is used on MANY other platforms outside of Honda and have worked for over 20 years even in the U.S.

Please see the Article on "let's talk boost controllers", and you can formulate your own conclusion without cluttering up this particular thread. This is simply showing a different approach than usual promotions that H-T likes to use, not a true debate of "what's bigger/better/faster/stronger".

Real talk: Welcome back. Let's see if you've truly "man'd-up", by being mature, objective (by allowing other ideas outside yourself), and use critical thinking, like you've been displaying since your return.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

BOVs don't cause lag. If anything they reduce it by allowing the turbocharger to maintain higher shaft speeds between shifts thus reducing transient response times.

Setups that run no BOV at all tend to have slightly better throttle response because there's no loss of airmass within the piping but that is incredibly hard on turbochargers, especially the thrust bearing assembly on journal bearing units since the constant compressor surge rapidly and violently shocks the bearing assembly and is really only meant for dedicated track cars that see mostly wide open throttle/high throttle body opening (drifting for example)

Although I'm not gonna lie, most of this thread made me laugh lol.

Dudley Grabsch

I dont know why no one has asked but are you using the stock map sensor? They cut out at about 12-13psi because they were not designed to read positive manifold pressure. You can get a GM map sensor that will read positive pressure. I dont think its your WG and its definitely not your BOV. Good luck

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

This problem has been solved, brody