Shane Mullen

Hey i just got a hatchback and i installed a turbo kit but it smells like gas when i drive it. It must be running rich?

Also i find it doesnt really want to go beyond 3000rpm, is there something going wrong with my setup?

Specs
Fuel Octane: 91 Octane
Oil type: 5W-30

Engine:
• Stock internals, all bottom end is stock.
• NGT Sparkplugs
• 550cc South Bay Fuel Injectors (OBD1)
• Omni 4-Bar MAP Sensor
• Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
• Ram horn Turbo manifold
• 2.5” exhaust downpipe
• T3/T4 Turbo 55Trim (Up to 450HP capability)
• 8-PSI Wastegate
• Electronic MAC Boost Controller
• BOV
• Stage 2 performance clutch
• 2’ Front mount intercooler
• 2” Wastegate screamer pipe (exits front driver side bumper)

Hopefully someone can help me out! im new here i uploaded my datalog and my tune im running message me if anything!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Go get your car professionally tuned.

Shane Mullen

Yeah i will be getting dynoed next summer but for the time being can i drive it

Anybody have an opinion on ebay injectors? Could that cause my car to run rich. I got these i understand they probably suck: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331402607276?item=331402607276&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I guess I need to explain it to you. Your car is not properly tuned. The quality of the injectors has nothing to do with it. The fact that your car isn't tuned has everything to do with it. Forced induction is not something you just bolt on and go with. What's more, your 4 BAR MAP sensor is entirely too big, and if your ECU has not been tuned specifically for a 4 BAR MAP sensor, that will cause problems as well.

You need to have the car professionally tuned. Period. Nothing else to it.

supersilverdc2

which means.... dont fng drive it unless you want to damage it

theYBLEGAL

Dyno tuning next summer? Take that **** off! Stop driving it untuned. Theres an echo in this thread

TravisBiggie

its not even tuned and you're complaining about it not running right



opinion? Don't ******* buy them. Buy used dsm 450cc's for less than 100$

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR. PERIOD!

Now that I've said that, where to begin...

I see no mention of any kind of engine management. The stock ecu cannot use larger injectors, nor can it use a MAP sensor with different scalar tables. Plus your info is vague as ****... you haven't really given us any useful "specs." Yes knowing the fuel octane helps but for a stock bottom end oil viscosity is almost always useless information but since you posted it I'll go on ahead and correct you.

5W30 is way too light to use on a turbo B series. A quality full synthetic 10w30 with adequate amounts of ZDDP is considered the minimum. Before you ask, no, 99% of the oils you buy at an auto parts place that are for use in gasoline engines have 0 ZDDP content because it's poisonous to catalytic converters. Turbo diesel oils are the only ones with ZDDP content that you can buy off the shelf, such as Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic. Also a quality filter is a must. NEVER EVER EVER use a Fram filter, they are absolute ****... At a minimum use a Purolator Gold. They are one of the best "off the shelf" filters you can buy and generally don't cost more than 8 dollars. Advance Auto Parts is the only place to get them AFAIK, Vato Zone and Walmart almost exclusively deal Fram. Bosch and K&N make decent filters but their price point is absurd and believe or not the Bosch and K&N filters are 100% identical in construction save for the socket provision on the end of the K&N. You also need to follow a much tighter, more thorough maintenance schedule. Oil changes should be performed between 3,000-5,000 miles. Every so often it is a good habit to send a used oil sample out for laboratory analysis. Especially on a stock engine with lots of mileage that gets abused a lot. The information one can learn from the analysis can show you the signs of an imminent failure or other severe issue before it becomes a severe issue.

Now back to the engine management issue.

You haven't told us what year the car is. If it's older than 92 then it's OBD0, these ECUs have rather limited functionality when chipped when compared to the OBD1 ECUs. If it's a 92-95 then it's OBD1, these ECUs can easily be chipped to run a variety of tuning solutions (Hondata S300, Crome, Neptune, etc) and are by far the most cost effective and most popular tuning solutions. If it's 96-00 then it's OBD2A or OBD2B, these ECUs cannot be modified in any way so you either have to run a jumper harness to use an OBD1 ECU or get a standalone (far superior engine management when compared to a chipped OBD1 ECU and typically result in a more refined tune)

Since you didn't mention anything about an ECU I'm going to assume it's stock. The stock ECU cannot in any way, shape, or form run larger injectors or a different MAP sensor from the OEM. If you continue to drive with the car like this you are guaranteeing some form of engine damage or failure. You mention using a boost controller with a MAC solenoid, a standalone solenoid can only be controlled via ECU based boost control. This only further adds to the confusing and vague nature of your post.

The stock ECU is programmed to run only one injector size with the OEM map sensor. If you change one or both then the fueling and ignition timing values becomes worthless and the car will either run like **** or not at all. So going from a stock 240cc injector to a 550cc injector with absolutely no tune revisions is a problem.

Compounding the problem is using a MAP sensor with an increased pressure reading range and different voltage/pressure scalars. The ECU has a reference table that tells it what the voltage output of the sensor is in relation to pressure readings. This is a fixed lookup table that the ECU cannot self-modify. While both the OEM and OMNI sensor output a 0-5VDC signal to the ecu each voltage point corresponds to a different pressure reading. Even though the stock sensor can measure pressure levels from full vacuum (-1BAR/-14.5PSI) to 10-11psi the stock ECU scalar only covers operation under vacuum and thus the ignition/fuel tables only reference vacuum. This alone would cause the engine to run poorly or not at all, add in the larger injectors and it becomes even worse... Think about Helen Keller trying to drive a car, that's how bad it is.

To give you an example, here's what the voltage output for both MAP sensors would be to give you an idea of just how far off things would be.

The stock MAP sensor can measure roughly 1.7BAR. Factor in that 1BAR is for reading vacuum and you're left with the ability to measure .7BAR (10.94PSI) of positive pressure.

The OMNI 4BAR sensor can measure 1BAR of vacuum allowing for 3BAR (43.5psi) of positive pressure. Here's the scalar/offset data and the calculation to generate voltage values based off of pressure levels to be used when setting up scalar tables for this sensor...

Scalar 838
Offset 31

Voltage to pressure (KPA) conversion

P= pressure in KPA 4 bar = 400 KPA
Voltage out/signal = 5 X (.002421 X P - .00842)

Atmosphere equals 1 bar or 100 KPA = 5 X (.002421 X 100 - .00842) = 1.168 volts @ 1 bar or 100 KPA

94.818
1.10

To convert PSI to KPA you multiply PSI by 6.89476


Here are the calculations for the OMNI 4BAR

Full vacuum - 28inHG - -.042VDC (ECU would read this as 0VDC however I'm assuming my quick math was right here)
10.94PSI boost pressure - 2.08VDC (Stock sensor limit for comparison)
Full boost 43.5PSI - 4.79VDC
Ambient 1BAR/0PSI - 1.16VDC

Here are the calculations for the OEM sensor

Full vacuum - 28inHG - 0.32VDC
Full boost - 10.94PSI - 4.84VDC
Ambient - 1BAR/0PSI - ~2.8VDC

As you can see there is a huge difference between the voltage/pressure values for each sensor. This would cause a huge drive-ability issue. Now ***-u-me-ing you have a chipped ecu or a standalone then whatever "tune" you have in the ECU is a BASEMAP. A basemap is just that, a crude starting point. It's meant for you to be able to start the engine so you can make sure everything is good to go (no leaks, bleed the cooling system, check timing, etc) and is meant to allow you to get the car to a tuner (assuming you cannot tow it) for a proper tune and to give him something to start off with. By no means is a basemap intended to be beaten on, ever. Typically if you have a chipped ECU and get a basemap from a 3rd party they will implement something like a 1PSI boost cut and give you a very very low rev limit so they can be sure you won't go around beating on your car like you're auditioning for Fast and the Furious because in the past people have ordered a basemap from someone, put in their ECU, and then go beat on the car left and right thinking they have a "tune" and then when something breaks they go back and blame the person/company they got the basemap from because they think it was an actual tune.

Park the car until you can either buy the correct needed parts or until you can get to a tuner. Continuing to drive it is asking for something to break. If you don't have a wideband then beating on a car with a basemap is an even dumber thing to do.