thanks mate! but theres a guy here in Australia, that deals with TIAL products so hes gona get me one :D

 

lol whos MTQ? looks like i will ned to find this myself... my guy, was getting charged wayyy too much for shipping :S it shouldnt cost that much! how much does a bloody spring weigh? :S

 

Just want to double check... would my spring being cut, cause detonation or pinging? it might be my imagination but on saturday i swear i heard pinging or something along those lines, and another guy looked at my dyno sheets and he said because the boost is un even and all over the place, that causes the AFRs to be all over the place and that causes detonation... any of the pros care to shead any light on this?
I just really cant afford to blow my motor right now... will getting a new spring make life easeir?

 

just do a google search for them, they are quite larger over there

 

I've cut my own OEM springs before (w/coolant and not slamming it), and it worked perfect - a little lower and tighter. Its only an issue when you overheat the coil, since it loses its temper, and therfore springrate changes.

The problem with cutting a WG spring is the preload applied on the WG valve. It still has the spring rate of an 11psi spring (actually slightly higher, due to less coils), but with much less preload, so it opens earlier. THen as it has to bypass more gasses (by opening more), the higher spring rate increases boost. If you are really worried about a terribly gigantic spike of just 2.2psi, run an MBC. The MBC will hold boost a bit more stable, assuming it's not a POS. A better spring will help too, assuming 99% of the problem IS your spring. Full-race products are good, but they don't really design them for a meger 6psi. The lower the boost level, the HARDER it is to control boost.

BTW detonation comes from may things: bad fuel, too much timing, overly-lean, or just too much boost. If your AFR's are all over the place, it looks like your tuner shafted you. They should be tuning it quite a bit at the boost level you'll be at most, but should also tune every other spot they can, and smooth the map the best they can. If they did that right, it could hold 2psi with steady AFR's just as well as 9psi.

 

Thanks for that dude! much appreciated! ill get a new spring anyways as they are cheap and i dont really like the idea of dodgy things being done to my car LOL
Just waiting for a reply from my email to boostfed...
I might PM "Tial" aswell....
if i get an electronic boost controller, for when i can afford to tune it again, will putting it in and setting it at say 7.5-8psi be safe? also what do you recomend? ive been told to look into an Apexi one and a Blitz one...

 

I think It could be that the manifold is causing the boost to creep. If it creeps from 6psi to 8lbs, I would just leave it alone.
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methadrostenol

 

but if it was the manifold, why would it start boost at 6psi and rise to 7.5, when i WANT it to start at 7.5? LOL