whats a good turbo to use to make atleast 500whp with a d16z6 with crower stage 2 turbo cams and bisi springs and retainers with cp pistons eagle rods and a darton sleeved block?

i was thinking a gt35 from garrett but i dont really understand trim and a/r thanks for any input in advance

 

are you just listing parts together? It's possible, but it's not that easy to achieve 500whp with a 4 cylinder Honda motor.

 

im trying to figure out everything im going to get before i start buying stuff

 

Here's a link explaining A/R and Trim.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech102.html

As for the turbo there's many choices but because you want 500whp you should be expecting to spend a nice chunk of $ for it. Personally I love the power outputs that these gt35r's are putting down on hondas. You will be able to get 500 out of a 35r and decent spool time.

 

yeah the money isnt a issue im planning on this bieng a project for a while

 

Well. This is where you have a LOT of choices. Here's what you need to do for yourself (and to help us, help you). Do a bit of searching online, and just accept the fact that for these choices you'll be over $1000 or so in the hole.

In the next few posts, you'll get some "quick answer responses" from other members here about what they'd use, but 9 times out of 10, they won't give any VALID reason as to why. They typically think about what they would do if they had your money with the project, and not necessarily what your needs are or what you have in mind, so take that into account.

Here's your list of questions YOU must answer first for yourself.

1. Ball-bearing or journal bearing cartridge - Do you know the characteristics and behavior of each type? Ball-bearing cartridges only help w/ response with the correct wheel design. Simply using a ball-bearing cartridge in a "T" series turbo doesn't do anything. Borg-Warner uses Journal bearing also, but has great responsiveness due to their extended tip technology wheel design. Do you know the cost factors that are added with a ball-bearing cartridge (such as water fittings, lines, and flanges)? They are different from most of the Garrett line, and add as much as $200 to whatever you choose from the Garrett GT-"R" series. The GT-R series from my experience is best for road-racing, where the oil doesn't have do dual duty of lubrication AND cool down of the cartridge.

There are also some good GT journal-bearing series that can do the job just about as well as the GT-"R" series, without the added cost and headache of the water lines and fittings. That is an option as well.

2. Flanging - Do you want T3 or T4 flanging? This will will depend upon the manifold you plan to use.

3. Downpipe flanging. Did you want standard 4 bolt? V-band (when applicable), or 5 bolt? Knowing what downpipe flange you plan to use will help in your decision. If you don't have those planned yet. Plan your setup around the turbo, and not the other way around.

4. Budget - Sure, money may be "no problem", but you do have a point where its too much to spend for just one turbo, when you may need the rest to address other needs of your build. $1000-$1600 is typical for the turbos of the size that you need for your power requirements.. but, that's on you.

5. Fuel type - E85? Race Gas? Pump gas? What fuel are you trying to use to reach the power levels that you're looking for? It may mean that you use a smaller turbo w/ more pressure to get the power need, but if it is w/ pump gas, it may need to be larger due to the fuel requirements needed with your injectors.

6. Power level / Purpose - You did state this earlier, but this goes back to the fuel issue in 5. What power do you want, and HOW do you want it? responsive? (for anything over 450whp, there's no point in asking that). What are you using the car for? Drag? Street/strip? Road-Race? This makes a big difference in choice...

Chances are you're going to be about 61mm or larger in Garrett or Borg-Warner whichever you decide. But you'll need to know the answers to these questions first before we can be of true assistance.

GL and start working... Get back to us w/ some answers to those questions

Feel free to PM me if you have questions, or need suggestions.

 

this is pretty much what im planning on getting
darton sleeved d16z6
eagle h beam rods
cp 8.5:1 pistons
walbro fuel pump
crower stage 2 turbo cam
bisi valve springs
bisi retainers
crower stainless intake/exhaust valves
arp bolts/studs
hondata s300
fidanza 12lb flywheel
act stage 3 clutch
acl bearings
skunk2 pro series cam gear
aem fuel rail
precision turbo 1000cc injectors (quick question difference between low and high impedence?)
hondata 4 bar map sensor
b&m fuel pressure guage
fj valve guides
blox fuel pressure regulator


1 i want it to be ball bearing i herd there more durable for the long haul

2&3 im going to build around the turbo

4 i dont really care what i spend i want to do this as right and bulletproof as possible

5 im planning on running pump gas primarily shell v-power

6 i want around 500whp, its going to be for backroad racing/drag, i want it as responsive as i can get but i know there will be some lag

hows areomotive's products havent herd of them before

 

This is the best post I have EVER SEEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I'm not going to say they're unreliable; however, if you do have a problem with the CHRA, the whole turbo is toast....there's no rebuilding BB CHRAs. If you go with a journal bearing turbo, it can be rebuilt. That way you aren't left with a $1300 paper weight. That fact alone lead me to my final choice...check sig

 

yeah i deffinitly dont want a $1300 paper weight for that reason i think i might have to go with the journal

 

so no one has input on trim and a/r?

 

You should look at the Borg Warner S362 and S366. I'm sure the latter is a little large for your goals, but the first should fit them nicely. I dont know the offered turbine housings, but i'm sure a quick PM to TheShodan will solve that problem

 

wtf does twin scroll mean?

 

People often misinterpret this meaning.

Twin scroll turbine housing. The TST housing derives its name from the geometry of the exhaust gas inlet into the turbine. Two different-sized scrolls are generally used, a primary and a secondary. Typically, the primary is open for low-speed operation, and both for high-speed use. This creates the ability of the TST to be a small A/R housing at low speeds and a large A/R at higher speeds.
TST designs are of merit in that they offer a better combination of low-speed response and high-end power. It would be difficult to configure the unit to control boost by effectively varying A/R. A wastegate is therefore still necessary to control boost pressure. Simplicity of the twin scroll turbine housing is its big selling point

See Sig.. For you, not needed.

 

i was thinking of a gt35 with 82mm inlet 56 trim .70 a/r do you think this would be a good fit?

 

Dude...that is gonna be a beast of a D16 if you actually throw all that **** in there.

 

for the most part thats what its going to be i mean i might swap out some parts for a different brand but thats how im going to build it mind you its going to be a project for atleast and year or two haha

 

dont go with acl bearings use honda oe bearings
and iv heard that the crower cams like to break under that amount of power/stress
just fyi

 

Meh.. Not that responsive in that size though.

 

i think i made a mistake i wrote down the compressor side instead of the turbine side the compressor is ind. 61.4 exd 82mm 56 trim .70 a/r the turbine is wheel diameter of 68 trim of 84 and a/r of .63

and about the cams if not crower then who? skunk2 only has a stage one cam for the d16 on there web site

and you think the valve train can handle a redline of 9000

 

skunk 2 is gonna be expinsive.. blox type c (i think its the name) is exactally the same as jun stage 3 iv seen them in cars and their making good power and i havnt had anyproblems with em.. for the valve train really any reputable company will work just make sure its dual spring, and for the redline.. dont look at that redline really doesnt matter mines gonna be around 8200 and im gonna be makin around 350-450whp
like i said to the kid asking how he can rev his motor to 11k the redline doesnt matter its ware your torque and hp are at

 

yeah i just wanted to see how high i could rev on bisi pro spings and titanium retainers

 

like i said earlier your rev/redline doesnt matter dont consentrate on that just get the power you want out of it and your redline will come with it.. whats the point of reving to 9 9500 if your only making power till 8500?