Ash J. Williams

i want to add, that the L28ET that had the turbo feed into intake manifold right away has solid block deck, rods that can take 800+hp and dished pistons. those are engines that can withstand detonation and keep ticking.

Ash J. Williams

i am sorry again man, but you are confusing it with the 300ZX. i have this engine laying around now, and i can assure you, the turbo outlet went directly into the intake manifold. the part is called a j-pipe for a reason. the pop-off valve didn't actually let off boost off throttle, it couldn't as it was located on the intake manifold and only worked during over boost situations, we used to weld them shut back in the day.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well, than let's agree to disagree on that point for now. If you concede that the pop-off valve acted as a the same function to release air pressure to avoid compressor wheel reversion, I'll concede to the j-pipe going into the manifold. For 1983.. It just wasn't there. So either it was modified from the factory when I was a young lad by someone that my father knew, or there was an exception to the OEM on that particular model base. Ok?

And I hated the 300ZX, so I know the difference in engine platforms.

Ash J. Williams

just trying to keep the facts
i don't have any love for the VG engines myself.

Ash J. Williams

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I understand what you're trying to do, and respect it. (Guess you didn't see the last part of that last post, but whatever). what year and model is the L?.. This where we may be miscommunicating?

Sorry OP, we'll get back on your topic after this little diddy here.

Ash J. Williams

the L28ET came in the 81-83 280ZXT. none of them were intercooled. i was a Datsun head long before i began dabbling in Honda (used to hate them, actually). my first car was a 83 280ZXT (miss it dearly).
here is another shot of a stock L28ET. you can clearly see the j-pipe connecting the turbo outlet to the throttle body and the pop-off valve on the intake manifold to the right (the mushroom looking thing)

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Then I concede.. the ones that I had were aftermarket installed after the fact from the sources available then. But even you would have to agree, that the use of the intercooler would have made a world of difference in this case.

But even you must concede to the purpose of the pop-off valve that they are using in the L28 and L20 models was to avert reversion similar to a modern day "blow off valve".. Now that I am correct on.

Ash J. Williams

you bring a torrent of information here, and i would never try to undermine it. i agree that running without an intercooler on a honda engine is a silly thing (those engines are fragile) considering the low cost of the components.
installing an intercooler was the first thing we did, usually it was off the Isuzu NPR truck.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Considering most people with real intercoolers only see temps 10-30 over ambient....:-) whoever you're listening to is an idiot.

If the turbo is designed for it, you can get away with no bov or if its a race only vehicle... your setup ,cost likely wont be up to those standards

Bix VT

For 6 psi, why not just get a 1g DSM valve? I got mine for $20 shipped, cheap insurance for your turbo and oem function and longevity.

BigMike0147

I was going to say this ^^^

92civiceg9gsr

You dont have to have an intercooler. A bov however is a good idea to save the compressor. If you dont use an intercooler the car is going to get heatsoaked very quick and then take forever to cool back off. Water/meth can serve as an intercooler.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I need to find out which ones were used as I believe they were of similar size to the Isuzu. Well played, sir!!

EK20renn

i'm deciding that i'm going to run a DSM side mount intercooler and probably a DSM blow off valve.

while it seems possible to not use an intercooler, i'm concerned about hot days or getting a bad tank of gas and blowing the motor.

the rx7 guys in the thread i posted make me want to experiment with not running a blow off valve but for the cost of a DSM BOV it would be nice insurance to have.

thank you all for the help in this thread.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

At your low pressure levels it might not damage anything (quickly) but it will cause more lag between shifts.

But like you said, for that low of a cost its good insurance, glad to see you decided to go the safer route

Good luck with your build

ThE HeLLRaZoR

It sounds like your Trying to hide your running F/I? The Answer to your Question is Simple YES IC/BOV ARE RECOMMENDED I suppose you could Alleviate your IAT some by running Ethanol. Then just get one of them, Stupid Piece of **** Adjustable Ebay BOV's, set it as loose as possible then you will only hear a faint Puff Sound.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Tony the tiger ran his charge pipes through the stock air box and intake elbow.. he hid everything so well you couldn't tell even if he popped the hood, I'll try to find the thread

ThE HeLLRaZoR

Win haha... If I was going with such a Cheesie Boost Setup i'd wan2 hide it to lol... There is nothing more "Fabulous" then a Sneezing Rice Burner...

EK20renn

i'm not trying to hide anything... i guess you could call the car a sleeper but i don't really care either way.

i'm only turboing because i want a little more midrange torque... i even plan on keeping the stock exhaust if that gives you an idea of how little i care about numbers or racing the car.

tepid1

IAT's don't change based on fuel.... Just so you know.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Even on 6 psi its difficult to get torque and better midrange when you've restricted the very important components needed to gain that torque, such as backpressure relief.

If its about midrange torque and use, please use an intercooler and BOV (even if its a 1G DSM) and use a slightly larger exhaust to get the most out of your lower efforts to gain torque.

ThE HeLLRaZoR

Let's pretend I was Saying Incoming Air Temp=IAT. If you Inject fuel before the TB it will bring down Intake Air Temps=IAT. Let's just put it this way, Gasoline ******* sucks IMO...