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turbo manifold problem(need help)

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Old 01-25-2004, 09:04 PM
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Default turbo manifold problem(need help)

ok car is a 98 ls integra,i have a rev-hard cast iron manifold,with a garret t3t4 turbo,its got a 4 bolt flange for downpipe,so people say imma have to shave the block for 3" dp to fit,even with ac all off.now some say i can stay same turbo with 4 bolt and go max rev manifold that will bring alil away from block for clearance.if thats correct imma purchase one,and also i see max rev sells 4 bolt downpipes that MAY or maynot fit,not sure,or does anyone have a clue where i can purchase a 3" downpipe from....any help would be great...
Old 01-25-2004, 09:43 PM
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Default Re: turbo manifold problem(need help) (spoon20)

anyone....
Old 01-26-2004, 05:26 AM
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Default Different Rev Hard Manifolds have Different setups

O.k. Let me see if I can break this down for you. Rev-Hard creates two different manifolds that are A/C compatible and one type that is not..


This first one here,

Is one of their first compatible A/C manifolds that are used. Notice how the flange opening on the manifold is "crooked" to allow the turbo to set itself slightly away from the block to eliminate the need to shave the webbing on the block (I'm Assuming you're using a T04E Compressor cover). You'll know the difference because the placement of the wastegate flange on the manifold is set right btween runners 1 & 2. This could cause a problem in which you would need to create an elbow to the flange in order to change the direction of the wastegate. This is only necessary on DC2 Integras (USDM) that are utilizing an electronic boost controller due to the fact that the "nipple" in which the hose for the EBC would fit may possibly not allow clearance of the hood.

Now this second one, is their second manifold that is A/C compatible. This one has the wastegate so that DC2s can close the hood w/o the need of an elbow to relocate. It gives a little more clearance on the hot side, but because the flange outlet itself is parallel w/ the rest of the manifold, and you're using a T04E on a B-series motor facing the passenger side, you may have to not only shave the webbing on the block, but also purchase an additonal Head flange and longer bolts to "push" the manifold further out from the block.

To eliminate this, especially if you're in the market for a new turbo, You could get the turbo that you want and possibly house it in a T04B housing, which is slightly smaller, but you can still use the same size compressor and turbine wheel combinations as you had before.

When people talk about a "Rev Hard" Manifold, I really wish people would get specific as to which one they use and post a pic, and what Chassis code they're using. It would help so that people can make sure they have the right stuff.

Modified by TheShodan at 2:55 PM 1/26/2004


Modified by TheShodan at 3:29 PM 1/26/2004
Old 01-26-2004, 05:43 AM
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Default Re: (TheShodan)

Max-rex mani was designed for a 4 bolt exhaust housing turbo.

This WILL work! I had to get one of these for my GSR cause I bought a drag mani and it didn't fit. Enven if I shaved the block the drag mani would have never fit.

I don't know if the rev-hard will fit if you shaved the block but I would go with the max rev or custom, that way no shaving!!

Or you can pm tinker219 or kteller8 and have them make manifolds and downpipes for you here on honda-tech.
Old 01-26-2004, 09:06 AM
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Default

Here's one that was used, and cleared fitment.. Notice, we still had to slightly shave the block webbing..




Modified by TheShodan at 6:52 PM 1/26/2004
Old 01-26-2004, 04:23 PM
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Ive talked to one of the guys at revhard and asked what the difference was between the two B sereies A/C compatible cast iron manifolds. He told me that one is a revhard design and the other is a replacement for drag manifolds ( same design ).
Old 01-26-2004, 07:03 PM
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Default Re: (DownBoyDown)

why not just get a JG turbo manifold. My opinion, looks alot nicer than drag, max, and rev hards.
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