hoggy

I recently got my turbo kit on my stock b16a2 in a 92 CX. Here is what the kit consists of.

Stealthmode mani
Holset HX35
Tial 35mm
Johnnyracecar.com FMIC
2.5" Intercooler piping home made
2.5" turbo back exhaust with glass pack resonator, straight through muffler
1G DSM BOV
2G DSM 440cc injectors
Walbro 255
turboXS mbc
tuned with uberdata

I was able to put down 237hp and 165tq @ 9psi on a dynojet
I ran at the track last night and got a best of 13.498 @ 109. I had my launch cut set at 4k and it was way too low. I raised it to 4500 and that brought my 60's down to 2.2's instead of 2.3's but I would have like to raise it a little more a bit at a time cause the car just wasn't on the brink of traction loss in first. I think with a higher FTL and some motor mount inserts it should be good for a 13.2-13.3.

What do you guys think?


Modified by hoggy at 1:20 PM 5/6/2004

Joseph Davis

I've seen 12.9's at your trap speed, you need to work on your suspension. I think COLORPROS pulled a 12.9@109 on street tires... but anybody with a boosted ITR has the $$$ to make their suspension correct. Not knocking his obvious driving skills - money can't buy that part.

Power output is average to a hair low for the "psi," but you really need to look at cfm flowed. I think you'd find the Holset likes higher pressure differentials... 12-14 psi should net you a noticeable bump in power to the wheels - care to take that step on a stock B16? ;P

blundar

props. I'm over in Cinci dude ... you should roll by sometime.

2muchPSI

I think you should be able to hit 12's Brian.. If you want to get that biatch on the dyno again and turn up the boost a lil I think Ben and I are gonna put together a dyno day in Indianapolis soon. Nice times!

TurboJesse

nice job...i agree that upping the psi alittle will really net some nice numbers. how is spool with the hx35 on a b16a?

hoggy

Spool is a little later than I hoped for. I need to get a better manifold on my car to bring the spool rpm down a couple hunder rpms. It doesn't get spooled until a couple hundred rpms after vtec engages at 5200.

J. Davis,

What do you mean by needing a better suspension setup. Right now I am running Integra spring rate ground controls with KYB AGX 4 way adjustables with skunk 2 camber plates in the front at -.5 degrees. I know I need to get some motor mount inserts. What would you suggest from cheapest to most expensive. I'm kinda broke right now for a long while.

Blundar,

I'll definitely be over in Cincy at some point in time. One of my friends is moving to Cincy in the next week or so for a job he just got. I hear the scene over there is pretty cool. What part of Cincy are you in?

TurboJesse

[QUOTE=hoggy]

What do you mean by needing a better suspension setup. Right now I am running Integra spring rate ground controls with KYB AGX 4 way adjustables with skunk 2 camber plates in the front at -.5 degrees. I know I need to get some motor mount inserts. What would you suggest from cheapest to most expensive. I'm kinda broke right now for a long while.

QUOTE]

http://importnut.net/motormount.htm

That should work well on a budget

Joseph Davis

Integra spring rates tell me nothing. Stock spring rates? Was Jay @ GC told you wanted to handle, or to drag? You also want to control chassis/suspension flex... with your chassis, the motor mounts are crucial, as already covered.

I'd also look into introducing a set of radius rods into your suspension. DIY is not difficult if you can weld. If you look at some of the dead simple designs out there, and your suspension geometry, it's not hard to figure out where the rods have to be positioned. afcoperformance.com sells a set of steel swaged rods ($15/per) in a variety of lengths, and gold anodized. They do not look dissimilar to the Full-Race units, most would confuse them for the Full-Race items unless you set them side by side; Full-Race either sources theirs elsewhere or makes their own (diff material, too).

Alignment is crucial, you might find yourself better off running as close to stock alignment as you possibly can. A little negative camber wear, or uneven tire wear, kills traction.

hoggy

The spring rates are something like 325 front 250 rear. I'm in the process of learning to weld. I've tried it a few times and realize I can do it. I just need to get me a welder and play around. I'm too cheap to buy anything I can make.

Joseph Davis

Yeah, I have 350/275, and the rates are all wrong for traction out of the hole. You'll want stiffer in the rear and slightly softer up front - the idea is to limit weight transfer off the front wheels by having the rear stiff and the front tires follow the pavement easier with softer springs. You have to compromise this with a car that doesn't try to kill you in 25 mph cornering situations if it's frequently street drive.

You might try yanking your ebrake and slipping the clutch a little when you launch... it stresses the suspension and takes a bit of the initial rearward weight transfer out of the equation and you can hook up better. I have a hole drilled through my ebrake handle so I can slide a pin through it and the ebrake doesn't catch and mess me up when I try to do this. I can just let go and finish slipping my clutch.

Anyway, I'm no suspension expert by far, but those two things will help you out a lot.

JDogg

imo, id practice driving before i started worrying about suspension.... come off the line at alot higher rpm.. if the turbo dosnt spool till 5500 then come off the line at 6000, make sure you have a pucked clutch so you can slip it and not kill the disk.

i have pulled 2.1 60 foots in very shitty suspened 98 coupe (skunk2 coilovers with blown out *** stock shocks) with about 120hp of d16 fury... you should be able to do that as well, you have alot more power and alot lighter car.

hoggy

When at the track I usually run my rear struts at 3 or 4 out of 4 to help keep the back end from moving around. This seems to help out a lot. I usually put the front one setting below the rears. Should this be left at full soft? I doubt I'll change the rear springs any time soon unless I find a good deal on some stiffer springs for my GC's for cheap, but I've been wanting to do that anyways since I was into autoXing and still am. I just need car thats more set up for that kind of stuff motor wise. This car is a daily driver at this point in time so I can't get too extreme with spring rates but what would you recommend as a good compromise?

The car currently has an ACT street strip which I assume to be a full face clutch so I don't really want to be feathering too much but I know I do need to get my full throttle launch setting raised up a bit. I do have a little bit of lag out of the whole but its not horrible.

The Crow

What tires are you running?

hoggy

Falken Azenis 205/50 15 on rota circuit 8's. Running around 22 psi in them. I didn't play with that much.

The Crow

Time for more boost, bigger injectors, and slicks! J/k

Get some slicks and launch the car at 7000rpm and you should hit 12's.

hoggy

I plan on upping the boost till I hit around 250hp and then once I get some head studs I'm gonna go for 275 or so. Probably no slicks in the near future. This is a street car and I'd like to stay on street tires for the time being and get into the 12's on them. Might swap it out for an LS this winter and then I'd be more into running slicks. I think the LS motor might go a little better with my turbo.

Joseph Davis

Oh no... Azenis are death at the track. I can't get any traction with them, they don't like the rubber ground into the track.

JDogg

with azenis you have leave the pressure up around normal, the sidewalls are too stiff and all you do by lowering the pressure all you do is cup the tread. they all need to be heated up..... leave the pressure up, and burn em down

hoggy

Next time I get to the track I will do that but as of now my HX35 is smoking like crazy. Time to get it rebuilt. I wasn't sure how much life it had left in it when I got it. I'll probably be able to use an HX30 for a while or I'll be putting my stock manifold back on until its rebuilt. How would an HX30 fair on a b16?

blundar

HX30 = gold on B16. Much better size, much better spool. T3/T4 on steroids.