96 GSR-T

good luck with that, 18" wheels are going to demolish your tranny.....

ProjectBB6

iTrader: (1)

uh why would an 18" wheel demolish his transmission?

DA TeG 90

Just get some DR's. Should help alot.

archull

Why would they ruin my tranny?? They are light as hell, not some cheap *** heavy rim. The wheels are much lighter than my factory 17" wheels were.

It won't


I have something better for the track

24.5x8.5x15" M&H Race masters slicks on 15x7.5" Team Dynamic ProRace 1's

Boosted_B_Series

The big 18s would be hard on drive line trying to retardly dig race with them. The sheer weight, limited short sidewall w little flex, and hard compound tire all add up for a horrible wheel hop story.

Until you get some radials/slicks, mounts, maybe bars, electronic boost control, launch control or learn to drive you will continue to get walked on by mini van fast hondas. Preloading is your friend dig racing on the street.

Get an ems that can manipulate a boost curve in each gear; so you can put the power in were it can take it. Not just gear dependent boost.. At least ramp the power with the rpms as well. It helps with traction tremendously.

Maybe I'm wrong on this, and I hope I am.. but I have never noticed any difference in traction on any car I have messed with just adding traction bars.

Just today, went out on the street, made 2 passes from a dig, pulled the car in, added traction bars.. Went back out on the street.. 2 more passes, didn't notice a damn thing. Same wheel hop and traction issues [street tire]. Added more preload, 2 more passes, no noticeable difference. I will know track results soon as last weekend I didn't have them and this weekend I will. I think some semi solid mounts is all that's needed really.

Not to this date have I ever seen back to back 60ft results that have proved there worth. I got them to simply stabilize the wheel under shock, maybe it will help in traction, sounds great on paper.

archull

see, its not like I am running rubberband tires, I am running a 255/35R18 with a treadwear of 180, its not like this is a thin, hard tire. They are actually pretty damn sticky. I don't race on the streets, thats hat a track is far. The 18's are actually lighter than my Stock wheels, they are Volks afterall. I have an RSX, its not like I am a retard and run 18's on a civic, the RSX runs a much larger wheel and larger tire.

I don't have a problem with wheel hop at all, never have with the solid mounts I run, I have an issue with wheel spin thats all but the slicks cure that

Also, I do a an electronic boost control solenoid and I do run boost by gear based off of gear, load and RPM. I run Kpro with a hondata solenoid. It works well, but even at the low boost I am running in 1st & 2nd I can roast the tires. I can't run lower boost than that because its off the gate in 1st & 2nd

Nasty Nick

Like everyone else said, you need to address suspension, tires and drivetrain. Since you said you have an LSD and suspension i would do tire's next, then traction bars. I have LSD, traction bars adn tires on my turbo Si. With the limited slip diff at least both of your tires should be spinning. I run Nitto NT01's for tires, they are DOT legal, however they come with warnings that they are "Intended for track use only". You will be fine just be careful in the rain, and forget about cold weather. I don't like drag radials because most of them have a very soft sidewall and do not handle well. The NTO01's hook up great as well as handle the turns awesome. I am putting down 276whp on a light car. The traction bar will stop the dreaded wheel hop from frontwheel drive cars because it holds your axle down, but if your tires are not sticky enough they will just keep spinning.